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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure if this belongs in the remodling forum but here's my problem.

I've gutted my house and will be installing a kitchen. The corner of the room was completely eaten by termites. This was an exterior corner of the house so I had someone come in a rebuild one wall and half the other. Unfortunately the guy cut some corners. I'm trying to get my wall straight for my cabintes but I right now some studs stick out about 1" more than others.

I ran 3 screws at different hights at each end of the wall and ran a string across. The string is 5/8" off the wall. Some studs are just plumb with the line others are 1" away. Then my other problem is, the distance from the lines don't all match up on one stud. So it may be 1" from the line in the middle, but 3/4" on the bottom line and 7/8" on the top.

Can any one advise me the best way to sort all this out?
 

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Old School
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The first thing to check is if the top and bottom plates are both straight and if they are plumb (check with a level) right above one another. If you have wavy plates, your studs will never be able to line up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not sure what you mean checking right above one another. The bottom plate I can't see. It's a 8x8 beam that the floor joists rest on. The studs are at most 1/4" off from flush with the top beam but can be more than that with respect to each other. I'm guess that's what you mean by wavy plates. I'm assuming if i have to put furring strips on the studs that they will have to go over the upper beam (it's not actually a top plate). In the close up on the top beam, the two studs are pretty much flush with the top beam, but 1/4" appart from being flush with each other.
 

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Tileguy
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Too bad the electrical has progressed because that stud wall is a total "do-over"! If you don't or can't do it you need to hire a real carpenter next time.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Too bad indeed. I just had my plumbing/electrical inspection done. I don't mind pulling the wires and redoing it if that's what I have to do, but I'm not sure rebuilding the wall is the best route. the studs are in line with the top beam for the most part and the studs for the wall upstairs are as well, so i'd think rebuilding the wall to be straight would leave it out of line with the top beam, but to make the top beam straight would cause the siding to be a redo and so on.

Well unfortunately I had a friend, who's a big general contractor in town, recommend his favorite carpenter to me. Which at least in this part, his studs are level and lined up but I don't think the top beam is straight. I hired him just to replace the termite damage. He did use one stud that had a strong bend toward the bottom which curved out about 1/2"...not sure why he thought that was ok. And then he also put true 4" studs in but in the corner, he left the 4x6 turned on it's side, so the corner stud is 3.5", not to mention the mess at the top. Though my favorite part of this guy was that he didn't replace a piece of trim molding by the soffet outside and now i have bats in the walls which seem to enjoy finding their way downstairs (through the open cavities on top the wall) and then flying upstairs to tell us good night.

I'm thinking one solution might be to nail new 2x4s on the sides of what I have and make all those level and in line with each other but still not quite sure how to get the two walls square with each other. Do any of the laser systems help with this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, this is another possibility, but it appears my shim thickness will have to vary depending on where they are on the stud. It doesn't appear there is consistanty how far out of plum each one is. It may be more on top than bottom with the middle different. The shimming would be good cause it would be easy to go all the way up over the top beam, where as with the 2x4 nailed to the sides, i'd have to rip another piece to nail to the top beam to get the fix all the way up the wall. I'm also thinking my screws with line run across may not be too accurate.
 

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Framer
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There are many different ways to fix your problem, but it really depends on what you want to do and how much money you would like to spend.

Personally, the easiest way is to build a false wall in front of your existing exterior wall. I would measure out 2 inches at each end of your top plate and snap a line on the joists above and then LEVEL down each end of your new chalk line and snap a line on the sub floor, Take some 2x4's and rip them in half and nail them down perfectly on your new chalk line.

Once you have done this you will have a bottom and top plate perfectly level and straight! Now fill in space with 2x4's on flat on 16's. Move all electrical to new wall. (Should be pretty easy, its only 2 inches in front now)

The reason why I said to put the 2x4's on flat is to save you some room, It is always better to have your 2x4's on edge (3 1/2 inches) for strength. The option is up to you..

Good luck, joey
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Joey,

Thanks, I'm not 100% sure I follow, but that sounds like a good idea, and I think i could figure it out.

I was just thinking last night. If I took a laser level and put it in the corner and ran it down the length of the wall, and then I take a 2x4 and put it against the existing studs. I imagine the if I trace the laser line thats projected on the new stud and then rip that, that would give me the exact furring strip i need. Then do that for each stud. does that sound like it would work? That should also help make the two walls square with each other wouldn't it?

Thanks,
Peyton
 

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Framer
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That is defiantly one was of doing it. But we want to make this perfect, right?

It is just hard to make sure that your rips will be perfect all the way down the stud.

Like you said before too, if your wall and the adjacent wall are not square to each other this method will not work to actually make a perfect 90 degree corner.

Let me ask you this, do you know what a 3-4-5 triangle is and how to use it? If you do not, then I need to find a diagram so we can make your walls perfect..

Thanks, Joey
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Well this house was built in 1839 so i'm not sure we can achieve perfect but I'll still shoot for it.

So I just finished watching 60+ bats fly out of my attic (just glad they've stopped finding their way in the house). I tried the laser approach today and did not seem to have much success.

Attempt 1: I put a 2x4x10 against the stud which was flush against the wall at the top and bottom but had a bowl shape in the middle. I tried pushing the new 2x4 against the stud to accout for this when i traced the laser line. Tried attempt 2 before ripping

Attempt 2: I took an 8ft 2x4 along the side of the old stud and moved it just until the laster was flush on the edge. I traced the backside where the old stud ran along it. After cutting it, I realized the laster was offset off the stud in the corner and it wasn't the laser line I was trying to get to. I only wanted all of them flush with each other, not moved all the way out to where the laser was running. And still not a solution for getting squared.

I know what the triangle is...one wall 3 one 4 and the hypoteneus is 5. not quite sure how to apply it to framing. Thanks for keeping with me Joey!

Edit: I understand your approach now. Could I not just find the stud sticking out the furthest and snap my line to be flush with that one. Use the laser (i'm not just looking for a reason to use a laser;) ) to line up on the chalk line and then take new 2x4s and nail them to the old onesto be flush with that? 2" doesn't sound like much but i'd like to save as much space as i can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Dang...thanks for taking the time to draw that out. That does help!

I started going down that path but then got a little concerned how the window will look with the wall framed out from it like that. I ended up giving the laser one more shot. I put it on the adjacent wall set about 3 inches off and then had it shine across the room about 3inches off the other side as well. I found the furthest protruding studs to be at 2 3/4" from the laser line. So I furred out all the other studs to be 2 3/4" as well. I'll try to post the pictures later. I just got a few 1x4s and some 1/2" & 1/4" plywood and cut 3" wide strips. I would just cut the pieces in lenght as needed, stopping where it was about 1/8" off from needing a 3/4" to 1/2" and then shim under the 1/2" to make a smooth transistion. Did the same thing for 1/2" to 1/4" transitions. I guess I could have planed down the transition areas as well to make it more accurate, but didn't think that was really that critical.

Thanks again for your help!
 
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