[mikemark8808]

Hi,

I have attached an images of my jacuzzi tub, which leaks from inside. Whenever I turn on hot or cold water on the tub, it makes a sound inside the tub of water coming out, but nothing comes out at the spout. Instead, it leaks all over through my ceiling on my first floor, all the way to the basement! I'm pretty sure it's the mixer or the some connection to the spout that has burst, because the house was frozen before.

What's the best way to tackle something like this? The stone panel is made of plastic, NOT veneer rock. The rocks are just hollow plastic, when I tap it I can tell, and it feels like painted PVC. I was thinking of taking a diamond blade on an angle grinder and cutting through both the panel and the cement board. It's probably glued with mortar. I don't even know what the best way to approach this is, as I usually just cut out the drywall from behind a normal bathtub and put an access panel back in! If I wanted to do an access panel in this situation, how would you guys do that?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Ghostmaker]

Have fun and hope your a decent finish carpenter to leave a good looking access door. Did they even leave a pump access as required by the plumbing code?

 

[mikemark8808]

Have fun and hope your a decent finish carpenter to leave a good looking access door. Did they even leave a pump access as required by the plumbing code?

No access to pump, although I see plumbing from the closet under - that's where it's leaking. Trying to get access to the faucet under there would be harder from the side, and a lot less safer. Any clue on how to cut through old cement board like this without destroying it?

 

[mikemark8808]

Here is a pic from the bottom. The 2 copper elbows is where it's leaking from, well, actually if I turn on the water to full the whole thing leaks a lot around the stud.

 

[jmon]

May be another leak besides the two elbows. Have to investigate further.

It may be easier to just cut that whole section out and redo it. You could use push on sharkbtyes fittings or solder fittings would be better if you have the skills. Solder most of it on a work bench then make the two solder connections in wall. Use a heat shield against the wood and pvc pipe.

Also make an access panel for future repairs. Just a suggestion.

 

[TheEplumber]

No access to pump, although I see plumbing from the closet under - that's where it's leaking. Trying to get access to the faucet under there would be harder from the side, and a lot less safer. Any clue on how to cut through old cement board like this without destroying it?

If it leaks only when the faucet is on, then you need to remove the front to access the area right below the handles- at the valve body. Basement access really won't help.
Good luck with the stone face. As a plumber I warned everyone that I was not responsible for damage when dealing with stuff like that......

 

[oh'mike]

An osculating multi tool with a diamond or carbide blade will cut through the grout and backer board---

E-Plumber told you where you need to cut----to expose the bottom of the valve---

 

[mikemark8808]

Multitool or angle grinder? I suck with both actually, was about to use the angle grinder, but was also thinking the multitool that I just bought might be handy as well. Although I did go to Lowes and they did not sell any blades for it at all... Maybe HD has some.. All I saw were Dremel rotary things.

 

[mikemark8808]

Hm,

So it seems like I need a little bit more help.

I opened up the wall with the circular saw. I found the leak right under the male threaded connection to the spout was cut/bursted. I repaired this, but after I repaired it, the valve right above it was also leaking. This is a modified ball joint valve that connects to a metal rod, which, when pulled up and down by the user (there is a ring next to the spout), shuts off the tub spout and forces the hot&cold water to go to the shower on the back wall instead. It is a nice idea, but I do believe this is not a good workaround for something like this, as water seemed to have gotten in and rusted most of the handle and stem of the valve, and that is probably where the other leak came from.

I took the stuff to the box store and they have no clue. I thought I saw a standalone Roman tub spout with a diverter, but they were all fakes. To do the whole job, I would be looking at ordering the Delta rough-in kit with the shower valve (that I won't use), and capping off the 3/8" threaded connection to the braided tube since I don't need it. Then I would need to order the trim that goes along with it. Is this a good solution? I'm afraid the cap to the 3/8" might fail or the shower stop might break eventually. Here are the parts: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Le...-in-Chrome-Valve-Not-Included-T4775/202831868

The other option is to create a shut off valve access on top of the tub somehow. I am not a fan of trying to repair the metal rod and redo what they did before, in fear of having to do this all over again... Although it worked before. Hm, if it came down to the end and I have no other choices I may just do it, and of course add an access panel. If anyone has some ideas or experience with this, let me know. I have attached pictures.