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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of getting estimates for a full tear off and reroof of my old farm house. I've spent the evening reading the Roofing forum 36 pages deep. I've read "How to find a Good Roofer". But, I do not know enough about roofing to either, know what questions to ask, or hell, I don't know what else.

We're debating between metal standing seam or faux-slate with metal standing seam on the porches.

1. I want the roofer to add a roof vent for a bathroom to be connected up later. I assume this means cutting the hole, installing some sort of vent, and flashing around it. What sort of vent is best for this, what brand, type?

2. I don't have much of an 'attic' - My roof covers 'finished' living space - plastered walls in four rooms - bare to the joists, purlins and original cedar shakes. Also, I do not have any ventilation - no soffit vents, no ridge vents, and no gables to vent. Am I screwed if I have to re-sheathe the house with plywood? If so, do I need estimates to include design and installation of a ventilation system?

2a. What systems would have their warranty voided if I do not have a proper ventilation system? Would this include the faux-slate?

3. Most of my roof is covered with solid planks (rather than the purlins). Does this have to be stripped off and replaced with sheathing if I am not using an asphalt shingle?

4. What about that plywood that has the foil on one side? Any point to it?

5. What else should I look at/read to learn some more about what I should be looking for?

6. From all my reading it seems like lots of homeowners encounter problems when they detect problems AFTER the job is done. How can a homeowner 'keep an eye on things' to make sure any problems are rectified before the final check is written? Is it worth having a roofing inspector to come out and look at it as part of the sign off?

7. I need new gutters, but don't know when I will be able to do them ($). One of my roofing estimates includes removing gutters and downspouts for no additional charge (I assume this is easier for them, cause they don't have to be as careful during the tear-off). Will this save me money when it comes to the gutter co? Will the money savings be worth having no gutters for unknown period of time?

I would really appreciate any help or comments. But, MOST OF ALL, I want this done right. I know that picking the right roofer, materials, etc, is my job, so I am willing to learn and listen.
 

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Bathroom vent is much better off going thru a wall rather then a roof if you have that option (distance)

I think you said you had a drainage issue
So think about that before going without gutters for too long
 

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Firstly, are you leaning towards one of the roofing products over the other so far?

Lets start there and then see if the answers can be pin-pointed to your exact situation.

You should at least have a "Gut Feeling" of which you plan on doing.

By the way, how has your contractor proposal and interviewing process been so far?

Let's hear how you decided to contact the contractors that you did, okay?

Have you checked out jobs they did with the types of products you are inquiring about?

Ed



P.S.
I will be off the computer till tomorrow now, so don't expect immediate responses back from me, but some of the other fellows may give you some of their perspective.






.
 

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Bathroom vent is much better off going thru a wall rather then a roof if you have that option (distance)

I think you said you had a drainage issue
So think about that before going without gutters for too long
Usually, I think you offer pretty good laymans advice, but I have a "Minor" issue with the advice regarding the bathroom vent.

A) If the exhaust tubing is laying horizontally on the floor of the attic, the condensation tends to collect at the bottom of the exhaust hose and fills up like a firemans hose, especially if either their is significant usage and extreme humidity being dispelled or if the fan is not operating at peak rated efficiency. The longer the length of duct tubing, the more chance for a build up of moisture and potential leakage through a seam or puncture, resulting in water cascading into the home through the insulation and ceiling.

and

B) When dispelling the moisture through the wall, that would invariably conclude that the moisture will be released at the point of the Intake Ventilation System, whether it be individual vent portals or vented soffit panels, which could potentially allow the newly introduced moisture to be sucked in by the Intake Vent and dispersed into the attic cavity.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Firstly, are you leaning towards one of the roofing products over the other so far? DH thinks the faux-slate will be cheaper (I think he is wrong, big surprise). I think we'll likely end up with metal.

By the way, how has your contractor proposal and interviewing process been so far? I have had two roofing contractors out so far. One has provided a thorough written estimate. The other will be by tomorrow to do some more measurements, and I expect a written estimate from him. I have had four or so 'roofers' out who failed to provide me with written estimates or only wanted to give me a 'ballpark'.

Let's hear how you decided to contact the contractors that you did, okay? Phone book gave me the four who didn't provide me estimates. Found one outfit online, randomly (only one who's given me an actual usable estimate). Ones that are coming over the next three days are from personal references from: my neighbor who just had a roof done, my contractor, and my housing inspector.

Have you checked out jobs they did with the types of products you are inquiring about? No. Not yet, but two of them provided locations of jobs in town with the same product that I will check out
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Thanks Ed. I have many more questions.

Scube - I have a few problems with venting out the wall 1) 16 inches of brick, 2) venting out the wall will require me to 'drop' the ceiling whatever amount is required (current ceiling and space above it is entirely under the roof - no wall), and 3) Venting out the wall would dump a bunch of moist air under my (non-vented) but elaborately detailed soffits and I am warned against this to avoid rotting the wood.

But, good point about the gutters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
More questions

Here's round two of Qs:

1. How do I compare two similar estimates. DH wants me to make the roofers break down the estimate into 'labor' and 'materials' so he can compare them. This seems wrongheaded (who cares if Roofer A gets a better deal on 30lb felt if they don't install it correctly). But he's obsessed with the idea because he could easily rank one against the other. What about price per square?

1a. In ratio what can I expect to pay for labor vs. materials? For full tear off, cladding with ply, prep, install. DH thinks labor ~= materials. I've seen some ratios of labor to material as high as 7:1. Who's right? What should I expect?

2. Is it worth (can I find someone who will do it?) hiring a roofing inspector to give me an assessment of EXACTLY what needs to be done and the best way to do it? Seems to me it would be worth a couple hundred to have an expert take a look at the situation.
 

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Usually, I think you offer pretty good laymans advice, but I have a "Minor" issue with the advice regarding the bathroom vent.

A) If the exhaust tubing is laying horizontally on the floor of the attic, the condensation tends to collect at the bottom of the exhaust hose and fills up like a firemans hose, especially if either their is significant usage and extreme humidity being dispelled or if the fan is not operating at peak rated efficiency. The longer the length of duct tubing, the more chance for a build up of moisture and potential leakage through a seam or puncture, resulting in water cascading into the home through the insulation and ceiling.

and

B) When dispelling the moisture through the wall, that would invariably conclude that the moisture will be released at the point of the Intake Ventilation System, whether it be individual vent portals or vented soffit panels, which could potentially allow the newly introduced moisture to be sucked in by the Intake Vent and dispersed into the attic cavity.

Ed
Yes, all of my bath vents have been very close to an outside wall
Not recommended for a bathroom in the middle of the house unless it is just a toilet (smell)

Mine are also on the gable end, so no soffit vents

Very good points, Thanks

If the same work is being done, then it should not matter the cost of materials VS labor. I would just go on overall cost as long as the same shingles & work are being qouted
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, now I've read all 79 pages of the Roofing forum and read every post that seemed pertinent (thank god for insomnia).

- Rain Rain Rain, so no roofers coming out for estimates today :(
 

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I'll propably need a roof in a year or two. As part of my "selection process", I'm planning to take a ride out to the distributor (Bradco) and see who they would use to put a roof on their house.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok?...
Thanks for the bump, I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I called the inspector who did my pre-purchase install. He is well qualified and experienced in roofing. For a small hourly fee, he is going to evaluate all my estimates and render an opinion of which one is the best.
 
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