[french_guy]

We had our 1st power outage 2 days ago...I went to buy a generator, at least for my sump pump and the 2 fridges
Now, power is back on but I was thinking about installing a transfer switch box (Reliance 3006HDK)
I want to have the sump pump, the 2 fridges and also my furnace running off the generator
The generator I bought is a Ridgid, 3,600 Watts continuous and 4,500 W peak
Will this be OK?

 

[AandPDan]

What brand panel do you have?

You may be able to find an interlock device for it. It will allow you to choose what you want to run, on any circuit. It basically offers increased flexibility.

 

[french_guy]

I am not sure about the brand....It's a pretty neat panel though...
I am not sure to understand what you mean (sorry, I am french and not used yet to the US standard...!!!)

 

[AandPDan]

Some panel makers have what are called "interlocks" that you can install. Basically, it allows you to use your existing panel as a transfer switch.

The interlock prevents you from having the generator and utility power connected at the same time.

One advantage of the interlock is that you can choose which circuits you want to run. You aren't limited to the typical 6 circuits that some transfer switches have.

Example: You don't need power to your furnace in the summer but you might want power to another circuit to run a window air conditioner or even several fans.

All within the limits of your generator of course.

 

[french_guy]

It's a General Electric from 1984 I guess (age of the house)
Does that mean those interlocks are additional items to install or the replace the breakers?

 

[AandPDan]

In many cases it is just some hardware that is added onto the panel box. You'd need to add breakers for your generator inlet - where the power comes in.

You need the exact model off of the panel box. If it's available it is usually cheaper than a transfer switch panel.

 

[french_guy]

This is what I am seeing on internet
It is basically a plate that slides up and down that authorize to have the main breaker OR the new generator breaker....Is that correct?
This seems to be the PROS (simpler and cheaper)
What are the CONS?

 

[AandPDan]

What you see is correct.

I don't see any "cons" in using one, only advantages.

Check with your local wiring inspector. They will tell you if they approve it or not. It shouldn't be a problem - if it's a GE interlock. Some of the after market ones may be a problem.

 

[french_guy]

I found a website where they sell kits
http://www.interlockkit.com/genelecmain01.htm
It's around $150 for my panel.....Seems expensive for 2 pieces of steel !!!
The breaker for the generator, is it a regular 2 pole breaker?
My generator delivers 30A (3,600 W continuous and 4,500 W peak)
What size should be the breaker?

 

[AandPDan]

Check with GE, seriously.

I agree, the other IS a lot of money. If you have no alternative though it's still cheaper than a transfer switch.

For example: I have a Murray panel. My interlock was $45.

 

[french_guy]

Check with GE.......For the size of the breaker?
I would say it should absorb the peak, no?
So 4,500 / 120 = 37,5 Amps????
Should I be 50 Amps?

 

[Missouri Bound]

We had our 1st power outage 2 days ago...I went to buy a generator, at least for my sump pump and the 2 fridges
Now, power is back on but I was thinking about installing a transfer switch box (Reliance 3006HDK)
I want to have the sump pump, the 2 fridges and also my furnace running off the generator
The generator I bought is a Ridgid, 3,600 Watts continuous and 4,500 W peak
Will this be OK?

About your furnace....is it a gas furnace? If so, you will be ok with that generator and that transfer switch, but you won't be able to use the air-conditioning or power a heat pump.

 

[french_guy]

Yes, it is a gas furnace.
I can handle too hot in the summer w/o A/C, but too cold in the winter w/o furnace..............I can't !!!

The interlock seems a very good idea, I just need to find the model for my panel and know what rate should be the generator breaker !!

 

[AandPDan]

The generator breaker is sized for the generator.

What outlets do you have on it? 3600 watts continuous = 30 amps at 120 volt.

Don't base it on the surge capacity. Can you do 120/240 volts on that generator?

 

[french_guy]

No, it's only 120V @ 30 Amps.....(I can still return it though, I have 30 days at Home Depot)
It's a Ridgid, and here are the specs:
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

RIDGID Power Tools offers reliable, clean power with the RIDGID Portable Generator Line. This 3600 Watt Generator is engineered to handle your toughest power needs on the jobsite or at home. With a 211cc OHC Commercial-Grade Subaru Engine, this Generator delivers 3600 Running Watts (4500 Surge/Starting Watts) and features a 4 gallon fuel tank for up to 11 hours of runtime at 50% load. Featuring the Armour Alternator with AVR, this generator produces 3600 Watts of Clean Power- so you can power everything from a laptop to a table saw. The Smart Display monitors Voltage, Hertz, Hours of use and even reminds you when its time for maintenance. The heavy-duty Zero-Gravity hand-truck frame design and never-flat tires keeps the unit protected while making it easy to transport even in the toughest conditions. The outlet panel features (4) 120V 20 Amp (GFCI Protected) standard outlets and (1) 120V 30 Amp Twist Lock outlet to meet all your power needs. Backed by a 3 year commercial warranty, you can trust RIDGID to work as hard as you do.

• 3600 Running Watts (4500 Surge/Starting Watts)
• 211cc Subaru Engine
• Clean Power, Ideal for sensitive electronics - less than 6% THD
• (4) 120V 20 Amp (GFCI Protected), and (1) 120V 30 Amp Twist Lock Outlet
• SmartDisplay for monitoring essential functions
• 4 gallon fuel tank for up to 11 hour runtime @ 50% load
• Zero Gravity Hand-Truck Frame design
• 3 year warranty
• Click on the “More Info” tab to download the specifications pdf to view the wattage requirement guide
• MFG Brand Name : RIDGID
• MFG Model # : RD903600
• MFG Part # : RD903600

Since it's "only" 120V, there will only be 1 x neutral, 1 x ground and 1 x hot wire, right?

 

[AandPDan]

Since it's "only" 120V, there will only be 1 x neutral, 1 x ground and 1 x hot wire, right?

Correct.

There are workarounds that will let you use it with either a transfer switch or interlock - with limitations! Most are designed for a 240 volt feeder.

 

[french_guy]

This is what I just realized....
It would be much simpler to have a generator that delivers 240V (2 x 120V)
Then inside the panel:
Neutral goes to neutral bar
Ground goes to ground bar
And conductors (Red and Black - 2 x 120V) go to the breaker (double pole) newly installed

Am I right?

If yes, i feel I should return my generator and get one that delivers 240V !!!

 

[AandPDan]

Yes, that would be easier.

 

[french_guy]

yeah.....I am looking at that model right now:
http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-O...Id=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051#BVRRWidgetID

More power for only $50 more....
This model is rated 5,000 W continuous and 6,250 W peak
And the outlets are as follow:
Two 20 Amp 120-volt 5-20R duplex receptacles, 1 TwistLock 30 Amp 120/240-volt L14-30R outlet and one 12-volt DC outlet
But to connect it to my main panel, I should use the twistlock plug, which is only 30 Amp....So how do I get the 5,000 W continuous?
Is it because the 30 Amps are split between the 2 conductors (30 A on Black and 30 A on Red)?
I am confused now.....

 

[AandPDan]

The 30 amp twistlock plug is all you need.

The outlet can handle 30 amps at 240 volts which is 7200 watts

Your generator can do just about 21 amps at 240 volts (5000 watts) continuous.