DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I built a 20 x 18 addition onto my existing garage. I have it papered with 15lb felt and the drip and rake edges are installed. Its ready to be shingled. I bought a Hitachi roofing gun for the job.
I have done alot of carpentry but I have never shingled a roof. I am going to use 3 tab architecural shingles. Here are my questions..
My new roof is not perfectly square because the roof its attached to isn't. Because of this, if I do a starter course at the bottom edge of the roof and snap lines across and continue up the roof, when I get to the peak the shingles won't be even across at the peak.
One guy told me I should buy starter course shingles and do the bottom edge and up both sides. I then should snap lines from one side to the other so that I could see how the shingles will work out.
One guy told me not to use starter course shingles and instead use regular shingles, cut the taps off and install them upside down.
So, my questions are this..
How do I start the process so that I don't have a problem when I get to the peak?
What type of starter course shingles should I get? Should I get the roll style or the shingle style?
What size nails should I get for my gun. I am assuming I should get 1-3/4". I have 5/8ths plywood on the roof.
I had planned to buy all the materials and the roofing gun and hire a guy to do it but I can't find anybody to do it. I have to do it myself. Its a very mild pitch roof so its very easy to work on.
If there is any members here that live near the Milford, CT area and are looking for some side work please let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,010 Posts
In my opinion, you should follow the directions of the shingle manufacturer, and you will find most of the answers to your questions on the back of each bundle of shingles. As for varying height of the roof, I would simply measure the difference, divide it by the number of courses, and simply cheat one end of each course down the 1/16" or whatever you need to make up. Also, you mentioned that the felt is down, but you did not mention ice and water along the bottom edge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
In my opinion, you should follow the directions of the shingle manufacturer, and you will find most of the answers to your questions on the back of each bundle of shingles. As for varying height of the roof, I would simply measure the difference, divide it by the number of courses, and simply cheat one end of each course down the 1/16" or whatever you need to make up. Also, you mentioned that the felt is down, but you did not mention ice and water along the bottom edge.
I didn't install the ice barrier yet but I intend on doing it.
That ice barrier is installed just on the lower edge of the roof... right?
I don't install it on the sides.
 

·
Framing Contractor
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
The ice barrier goes at the bottom. It needs to adhere to the roof sheathing. Why are you using the 3 tab architectural? I think it looks better, and is faster to go with the non tabbed architectural. I haven't seen 3 tab architectural used here in probably 10 years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The ice barrier goes at the bottom. It needs to adhere to the roof sheathing. Why are you using the 3 tab architectural? I think it looks better, and is faster to go with the non tabbed architectural. I haven't seen 3 tab architectural used here in probably 10 years.
I am probably calling them the wrong thing. I am buying them at The Home Depot. They are
GAF Lifetime Timberline Natural Shadow Charcoal Shingles

I have a 20' x 18' roof to shingle with no obstructions on it at all. At the top I need those cap shingles. My buddy said to buy starter shingles, regular shingles, cap shingles and ice barrier. Since I have 360 square feet I think I need about 13 bundles of shingles.
Like I said, I never shingled a roof before so this is new to me although it doesn't appear to be very difficult. I just want to do it correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I suggest that you follow the directions of the shingle manufacturer, but I also want to advise you that you should hire a professional to take care of this matter.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top