[PandJ]

I currently have completed a single story small framed house walls, ext n interior. I have not sheathed 3 of 4 exterior walls. I have a 32 foot ridge beam that needs to be installed (with small crane service).

Is it ok to drop ridge beam in before sheathing other walls? I'm not sure if there is a build order to maintain structural strength. :vs_worry:Or if the ridge beam will actually help tie things together, even before sheathing?

Photo courtesy of my drone

 

[mako1]

We always put the corner sheets on each wall before standing them to help keep them square.I would do that before I went further.

 

[PandJ]

We always put the corner sheets on each wall before standing them to help keep them square.I would do that before I went further.

Ok, thank you. I'll get the corners sheathed at minimum. The 3 remaining walls are all shear so I need to block joints both horizontal and vertical per schedule B shear. Walls are taller than 10 ft including rim joist so one 10 ft osb will not span length. Will take two smaller vertical pcs. Will take a bit of work so just wanted to check.

 

[mako1]

It will save you a lot of headache later on making sure they are square now before adding any more load to them.

 

[gverlab]

A lot of thanks for fine work, good luck!

 

[PandJ]

It will save you a lot of headache later on making sure they are square now before adding any more load to them.

Yes, good point. Things are measuring to be very square and plumb at this point so I'm pleased with results considering first build. I spent alot of time ensuring bottom up, knowing that as things assemble, a bit could be lost due to small gaps or differences in wood.

 

[Fix'n it]

Photo courtesy of my drone

showoff :biggrin2:

 

[PandJ]

showoff :biggrin2:

been great to document the build as it progresses :biggrin2:

 

[Gary in WA]

I don't see a diagonal brace on the loft supporting wall, directly behind the ladder... only thing holding the walls there is the floor (loft) diaphragm, not enough, IMHO. May want to string-line the top plates.... don't look straight from here...The top plate of the lower -10' walls should be braced diagonally about every 6' to make walking/rafters easier to install... I'd build a 3' wide, raised floor just above the loft floor over the open area to nail ridge rafters/hangers. Have crane load your roof sheathing ply/OSB sling on the loft floor (on 2x's to remove cable/straps) for ease of installation- add supports under if needed. I'd load my rafters there too, but that's just me . Cut all the rafters (after crane leaves)- same seat/ridge cut, fan them on top plate/raised walkway- starting far end toward loft- one man per set if slide one end out to wall plate on existing flat rafter. Then, one man up, one on wall, go. One hands sheathing out to other tied off, space the OSB with nail or use sheathing clips.

Gary
PS. Hmmm, your loft deck rim is not ON the wall plates...

 

[PandJ]

Gary, are you asking if loft is on top plate? It is. Wall behind ladder is a shear wall and to be sheathed per plans. So far as square n aligned as possible....... Was an 1/8 off on diagonals.

All exterior walls are shear on side n rear.

 

[PandJ]

I don't see a diagonal brace on the loft supporting wall, directly behind the ladder... only thing holding the walls there is the floor (loft) diaphragm, not enough, IMHO. May want to string-line the top plates.... don't look straight from here...The top plate of the lower -10' walls should be braced diagonally about every 6' to make walking/rafters easier to install... I'd build a 3' wide, raised floor just above the loft floor over the open area to nail ridge rafters/hangers. Have crane load your roof sheathing ply/OSB sling on the loft floor (on 2x's to remove cable/straps) for ease of installation- add supports under if needed. I'd load my rafters there too, but that's just me . Cut all the rafters (after crane leaves)- same seat/ridge cut, fan them on top plate/raised walkway- starting far end toward loft- one man per set if slide one end out to wall plate on existing flat rafter. Then, one man up, one on wall, go. One hands sheathing out to other tied off, space the OSB with nail or use sheathing clips.

Gary
PS. Hmmm, your loft deck rim is not ON the wall plates...

ok time for better response -

The top plates are definitely square and straight. I think the drone pic is just throwing in a bit of "perspective".

There are two wall heights on side walls. The loft area is framed as a typical 8ft wall with double plates, then rim and joist on top of that with subfloor....bringing to equal height to the cathedral (front) room walls. Top plate runs and ties all in. I'm also strapping the two side walls and ensured that shear sheathing split where those walls meet for extra tie in strength. It's per plans and is extremely solid feeling, especially not with exterior side sheathing now. Hold downs are on three of four exterior walls. It's a small build but should weather time. My main house is +100 years old....it's nice to have something square and plumb...lol

Side and rear exterior walls are complete shear (b) as well as the interior loft wall you noted. I have to make sure I run all my electrical upfront before drywall as running after thoughts will be a pain later:vs_no_no_no:.

I've learned a ton from here and driving by and asking others at local build sites. Also just asking building dept when needed.

edit -looking at pic I think the shadows are making loft look like floating and not sitting on top plates

 

[Gary in WA]

Thanks, that's it or my eyes... lol. You really should have a temp brace across the shear wall or not, there is nothing keeping it from racking laterally, unless I don't see a brace present... normally; build interior walls, add braces, top plate them, leave braces intact until after roof is sheathed. "Plumb and line". Before framing/decking the loft floor or setting ridge beam.

Gary

 

[PandJ]

Thanks, that's it or my eyes... lol. You really should have a temp brace across the shear wall or not, there is nothing keeping it from racking laterally, unless I don't see a brace present... normally; build interior walls, add braces, top plate them, leave braces intact until after roof is sheathed. "Plumb and line". Before framing/decking the loft floor or setting ridge beam.

Gary

I'll sheath the inside wall tomorrow. Honestly i'm impressed :biggrin2: with my first time work as the darn walls are straight and plumb. I know this is easier said than done. I spent hours working on maintaining this as I've framed so that when I got to roof it would be easier. I did my 100 year old roof and addition to the 5 layers I had to remove, the sheathing was a fun job to get lined up on the rafters lol. I think that is what drove me being so dead set on the square thing.

I visited a local residential build development (50+ homes) and I was surprised at the "rough" quality control:vs_no_no_no:....I guess that also gave me confidence that I could do better.

 

[Gary in WA]

It is called "rough framing" you know... I used to frame stair sets for apartment complexes as many "framers" couldn't handle them... I had two Union carpenters work for me once years later and they installed all the screened vent blocks between roof trusses with the screens facing out...

Gary