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GE Washer wont spin

1679 Views 4 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Noah F
GE Top Load Washing machine Model:wcsr4170d0ww

Good Morning! I'm brand new to this forum and totally stumped. I've been googling and trying things for a couple days now, but I need people who know more than me. I'm going to try to arrange my observations to eliminate troubleshooting that I've already done.

First off, the problem:

We had a couple power outages in a short timeframe and now the washing machine motor doesn't kick on. Not for agitate or spin. It fills and drains, but thats it.

Things I've tried so far:

-I performed the motor reset by unplugging the machine for 60 seconds then plugging it back in and activating the lid switch 6 times in 12 seconds.

-I tested the lid switch with a multimeter and DO see continuity when the lid is closed.

-I made sure the belt/motor spin freely when the machine is off. No binding there.

-I pulled the timer and cracked it open to hit it with some CRC electronics cleaner (actually mass airflow sensor cleaner, but it appears to be mostly the same product).

-I verified the load level switch still opens and closes and when the machine fills it correctly shuts off without overflowing.

-I checked the pump for *obvious* clogs, though I only really pulled off the hose from the basin and ran a screwdriver down it to see if there was any resistance.

Now for what I've observed:

-When the machine should be going to a spin cycle, the timer clicks very loudly and there's no indication at all that the motor is even trying to spin.

-Occasionally when it moves from drain to spin, it starts dumping water in again.

-With the knob pulled out of the timer, to indicate I want the machine to turn off, if I pull the load level hose and blow on it the timer starts loudly clicking.

I am completely willing to go back over steps I've tried already in case I performed them incorrectly. Normally at this point I'd buy a new washer since ours was old when we moved into the house, which was 5 years ago, but with all this madness going on that isn't an easy option. So I'm going to do my best to fix it on my own and will revisit buying a replacement when things calm down. Any and all help is very much appreciated!
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OK, I just unplugged it. Going to jump right to an hour. Do you happen to know what sort of continuity the switch needs? Is it just "closed is closed" or does it need to pass full amperage for the motor? I'm just wondering if the switch can partially go out or if its all or nothing.
Ya, I did some more troubleshooting and looked at replacement prices. Came to the same conclusion as you and literally just got back from Menards with a new Amana. When I saw 300-350 for a motor and 400 for a new unit the choice was clear. Now just to get it down the stairs, lol.

I really appreciate your help, stay safe out there!
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