[gciriani]

I have a pipe in the basement with a Gate Valve that isolates the sprinkler system. I just closed it for sprinkler system winterization, and noticed that it is not shutting off 100% the water. I looked at my local Home Depot for a replacement, and all I could find is a ball valve with the same rating. I have attached a picture of the specs of the original valve, and of the one I found in the store. Is there any contraindication to use a ball valve instead of a gate valve? Also is there any way to refurbish a gate valve?

 

[Windows on Wash]

Ball valve is better in my opinion.

Gate valves get accumulation on the gate and body/seat that keep it from closing.

Ball valve should work much better, longer.

 

[supers05]

WoW is right.

Unless an engineer demands otherwise, I'd use a ball valve any day of the week, without thinking about it.

It does look like the gate valve in your spec is a sweat fitting, and the ball valve is not. Could just be my eyes though. It's been one of those days. If you're already expecting that, don't worry about it. I personally like to use SB and compression when the pressure allows.

Cheers!

 

[MTN REMODEL LLC]

100% ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Super and WOW^^^^

Get rid of that gate... You'll have better flow and less maintenance.

 

[MTN REMODEL LLC]

I just replaced my main shutoff (inside) as the stem twisted off in a new (to me) 20 year old home.

My question, I have used ball valves seemingly like forever, but did they not exist a long time ago...

TIA for refreshing my failing memory...

 

[de-nagorg]

I was told a long time ago in school that a gate valve is for natural gas and or compressed air, never water, because the gate WILL eventually fill with deposits and be useless.

And you have found that to be true.

So a BALL valve is the preferred item to use here.

Some "CHEAPO" used the gate because they saved a few cents on it, and made you a headache for later.


ED

 

[TheEplumber]

My input and observations----

The ball valve you show appears to be a compression joint valve. I'd take it back for that reason. This is a valve you use at least twice a year and I don't feel the compression seal holds up as well as a solder joint.

Also, be sure it is a full port valve. If not, your flow will be restricted.

As to which is better, that argument will go on for a long time. Gates last for a long time in my area- we have great water and I have only replaced a handful that were less than 40 years old.
I have worked on spec jobs where the maintenance dept. specified gate valves to be used over ball valves too. A different job (school district) wanted the valves to be threaded with a union on one side so they could be removed at any time.
IMO- it's all about the quality of the product. Sounds like they don't make a valve like they used too....

 

[supers05]

I was told a long time ago in school that a gate valve is for natural gas ...

Some "CHEAPO" used the gate because they saved a few cents on it, and made you a headache for later.
ED

FYI: Haven't been legal for NG for a long as I can remember. I don't work on the utility side were they can regularly lubricate the stem and don't mind a small leak here and there, in the middle of a field.

For water, lol, I've seen plumbers look at gate valves and cringe. "I ain't touching that. I'll break the stem". It's a regular replacement job now.

Cheers!

 

[gciriani]

The ball valve you show appears to be a compression joint valve. ... I don't feel the compression seal holds up as well as a solder joint.

... be sure it is a full port valve. If not, your flow will be restricted.

... Gates last for a long time

Thanks for your useful comments. You are right, the ball valve has compression joints. The reason I'm thinking of replacing a soldered joint with a compression joint is that as a DIY, I do not have a soldering kit, and I saw a YouTube video on how to do the job with a compression joint

.

It is a full port valve, thanks for pointing that out.

As you mentioned, the valve is used twice a year, and it was probably installed in the early 1980's. It is mounted upside down (the turning wheel is facing down), for space reason. Because of its mounting orientation there probably isn't any debris that stopped the gate.

However, it is showing some greenish/blueish build up outside the body of the valve, which I believe happens when the material of the valve is exposed to water and air simultaneously. So I tend to believe that the gate stopped closing perfectly due to some of the same buildup. I was wondering if just opening the gate valve and cleaning the gate would fix the leak.

 

[supers05]

The gate valve comes completely apart. But it really isn't worth it. It's the minerals in your water, not just particles building up, so it doesn't matter the orientation.

Cheers!

 

[gciriani]

I personally like to use SB and compression when the pressure allows.

The existing valve says 200 WOG. Do you think the pressure of my regular municipal water utility is low enough for compression fittings?

 

[supers05]

The existing valve says 200 WOG. Do you think the pressure of my regular municipal water utility is low enough for compression fittings?

Probably only 40-80 psig. (some as high as 120psig by the lake here) Call them up, they'll tell you.

Cheers!