[ciphin78]

I have a gas range (KUCHT Model KRG3618U – 36” Pro Class Kitchen Range), one of the burners when turned on to the ignite position starts sparking. It then lights, but continues to spark after being lit - and never stops regardless of flame position. It's only this one burner. I have done all the *easy* checks to determine the issue which include: cleaning the jets, checking for moisture, making sure the burners are seated correctly and all holes are clean.

So... After looking under the hood, I've come to understand there could a few other possibilities.

-There's the igniter and the lead that could be replaced - how could I verify that's the issue?

-There's a micro switch that get activated when the range knob is pushed in (MQS-216T). Could that go bad and how can I verify that?

-There's the 6 point spark module that could be replaced. How can I verify that? This is the expensive one, the cheapest one i found was $125. So i'd like to make sure that's broken before just replacing it.

THANKS!

 

[jmon]

Sometimes it's just the burner cap that needs readjusting or recentered. when cooled remove and recenter it, try again see if that helped.

You can find utube videos out there showing how to do this.

Also go to repairclinic.com, type in your model number. they have excellent how to/parts testing videos. hope you get it figured out soon ciphin.

 

[ciphin78]

Thanks. I'll take a look at that site. I have adjusted the burner to seat properly numerous times - I don't think that's it.

 

[BayouRunner]

Look at the other burners, you will see a very small flame come out and hit the igniter after it’s lit. That’s what shuts the sparking off. Now look at your burner that’s giving you trouble. You’ll notice that the small flame is not hitting that igniter. When you correct that it will work correctly. We use a wire tip cleaner, not sure if that’s the correct name. But clean that particular port that goes to the ignitor and you will be good to go. Some burners have two orifices and the smaller orifice needs to be cleaned/reamed out with the same tool. Although the normal repair is how I first described

Use something like this to clean it

 

[ciphin78]

Thanks for the reply. I've checked again and the ports are completely clean. I even took the burner that works fine and used the cover (with the ports) on the malfunctioning burner and it resulted in the same continuous clicking. While the original burner cap from the one that clicks does not cause the working burner to click. Basically I switched burner caps and the one that clicks does so regardless. So I don't think that's the issue.

Does anyone know how I can check the igniter and lead, and the spark module to verify if they are working properly? I had an issue with the oven igniter a while back and I was able to take it off and measure the resistance using my voltage meter and could confirm that it needed replacing. If I could do something similar in this situation that would be great. I'm pretty handy, I just don't know what to check for.

Thanks!

 

[BayouRunner]

Not sure if we are understanding each other. What you need to look for is a very small flame hitting ignitor after burner is lit. You will not be able to see it looking down at it. But you will be able to see it looking from the side. Look at the other burners and watch when you light it. There will be a small flame hitting the ignitor. That’s what senses the ignitor to shut off. It’s very small, maybe 1/8 inch. I’m not sure on your particular range. I’m not able to look up parts on this model. Anyway changing caps won’t make a difference. It’s just the port that goes strictly to the ignitor that I think you are having trouble with. We get this same service call a few times a year. Usually it’s on the front right burner or the large burner in the front as they get the most use. Some models have two jets under the burners. One is for the burner itself and the other is for the ignitor. The hole is extremely small in the jet. We never see the debris but running the wire tip cleaner through it usually clears things up. Since I can’t look it up maybe you could remove your burner caps and take a picture and post of of the jet or jets. The cap as well. If the ignitor sparks your wiring is good. But I would not try to test the ignitor until you have verified that the flame is indeed hitting the ignitor. That’s almost always the issue.

 

[ciphin78]

Thanks. I rechecked and have pics. Looks okay to me, but please have a look and see what you think. I really hope it's something simple i'm overlooking.

 

[BayouRunner]

Ok that helps. I just can’t see if the flame is hitting the ignitor properly. Look at another burner then compare the two. The jet you would need to clean out would be the one below the center cap if it’s not hitting ignitor. Yours does have two jets. If it looks like the flames are hitting the ignitor the same in both pictures I would be looking at replacing the ignitor or the ignition box. The wiring is probably ok as the ignitor works. It may be possible that you can switch two different ignitor wires with different burners to test it. But don’t leave it that way. But again rule out the flame hitting the ignitor first so you don’t waste your time and money

 

[ciphin78]

Thanks. Interesting, I went back and looked again at the smaller cap with the two rings of ports. They are off center of each other (the top and bottom ring). If I line up the bottom ring port to be exactly even with the igniter tip the clicking does stop after the burner is lit. However, when i lower the flame to the simmer setting - to where the only ring with flame is the inner ring and not the outer larger ring the clicking starts up again. So I think you are correct that the flame is not hitting the igniter unless that inner right is lined up just right. That then leaves the issue with the simmer setting at the clicking. Not sure what to look at next for that. Thanks for the help! Any thoughts on adjustments for the simmer setting to stop the clicking?

 

[BayouRunner]

Pull the knob off for that burner and see if the shaft is hollow and there is a flat headed screw inside. If there is you can turn the screw to increase the flame size. But if it’s always worked ok and just recently quit I would clean the jet with the tool I showed in the first post


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ciphin78]

Hi Again - the issue has returned It worked okay for a day or so and then it started up again and I cannot get it to stop - after having reviewed all the steps mentioned in this thread again.

If i'm getting spark - would it be fair to say that my wiring and the igniter are OK?

Here are some more pictures of what the unit looks like under the hood (if that helps). There was mention of looking to increase the gas flow by turning a screw, however the know tube is not hollow in my case - if this is still an option, maybe the pics will help.

If there are any next-steps to take, i'm game.

Thanks.

 

[Preston5646]

Had similar issue with JennAir gas cook top. Ended up having to change out ignition system.

 

[surferdude2]

Switching the igniter leads with a burner that works for a test will be good troubleshooting procedure. If it works that way, you will have a better idea where the trouble lies.

I suspect you may just have some blockage in the gas supply to the part of the burner that affects the igniter... see pic below.

Clean that area thoroughly and closely inspect the orifice for full unobstructed opening. You can run a small wire or paper clip through it if necessary to make sure it's open... just be careful not to get too rough with.

 

[ciphin78]

I cleaned the orifices and didn't see any change in the clicking. I went ahead and got a replacement electrode and wiring that runs to the spark module. It was a pretty easy replacement. The clicking has now stopped and the burning seems to functioning normally! I'm hopeful that's the final issue for a while.

Anyone know how I can verify the old electrode & wire are in-fact not functioning anymore? Is there a specific resistance I can check for using my multi-meter?

Thanks.