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i just had my garge floor poured its (4" thick give or take mostly take i belivie) 24'x32' no wire mesh or rebar in it. it does have res. fiber in the concreat though. this sound right? no wire mesh or rebar in it?
 

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Have control joints sawed (1"+ deep) soon. Caulk later after cleaning out. Cut in half both ways so you have 12 x 16 panels or use the floor drain as a center point.

Your slab will crack and this will allow you to control the cracks and not have unsightly "spider webs" across the floor.
 

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Have control joints sawed (1"+ deep) soon. Caulk later after cleaning out. Cut in half both ways so you have 12 x 16 panels or use the floor drain as a center point.

Your slab will crack and this will allow you to control the cracks and not have unsightly "spider webs" across the floor.

it has been cut the panels are 8'x12' (3 across one down the center). not for sure how deep they are though.... do they really need to be caulk?
what about it not having wire mesh or rebar that normal? or should they have used some?
 

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Caulking the joints makes for a much cleaner look and prevents the accumulation of dirt. After you spend the money for a floor, you want it to look good and not accumulate dirt and salts, etc. You can make it look like a HD floor without the carts.

You have plenty of control joints. Concrete will ultimatelt crack and your joints will guide any cracks and make them less noticeable.

My personal preference is for wire mesh also, but it is not necessary unless you expect the possibility of heavy concentrated loads. I tend to error on the high side, so my last driveway was 6", 5000 psi with air entrained concrete (freeze/thaw resistance) and both fibers and wire mesh. Outside in a northern climate (Michigan then) you never know what could end up in a driveway (snow plow, moose, neighbor, etc.). In a garage most of the unexpected things are eliminated.
 
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