Garage swing-door install: sill bolt problem

Yes, there is an answer to the high bolt and nut.

• Take the nut and washer off.
• Use a chisel to clean out a hole in the wood the diameter and thickness of the nut and washer.
• Put the nut and washer back on.
• Cut off the offending length of bolt with a hacksaw.

Now, as far as the other end goes... It's a fair bet there is one bolt up under there. It is not likely anyone would have hung a garage door on the end of a plate only fastened three feet away (although stranger things have happened).

I would drill down as close to that side as you can for a "red-head" fastener. Do this BEFORE you cut the plate so you won't split the plate. Then I would notch the jack stud as you mentioned doing on the other side to fit over the top of the "red-head".

After all that, frame up a rough door opening, then cut your plate for your door opening.

However, I would still dig down outside at the garage door, and also install some plate ties from the garage door studs down to the concrete slab. A couple of Simpson SP-2's should be long enough... or one SP-3... (or similar type fasteners) to reach well down onto the slab.

GBAR does have a good point. I know you already had the studs out, and a door was going in there no matter what :wink:, but a door in the corner does substantially lessen the wind resistance in that direction.

My shop is the same way, however I built mine of metal, and the framework (truss, if you will) is all one piece, from the slab on one side to the slab on the other side. Makes a considerable difference... although still not ideal. (see the drawing below)

If you have room, some stability can be returned to that corner by installing diagonal cross-braces running above the door from the side wall top plate to the area of the post between the garage door and the personnel door. It's not great, but it will help some.