[Stillwerkin]

I'm trying to put in a steel door next to the roll-up, and want to locate it in the center(the outer lines are drawn on wall).

The problem is that:
1) The door frame(on the right) would land on the existing sill bolt, unless I move the door over and cut out an "arch" for the jackstud(I hope that's the right term) to fit over it.
2) There would still be no sill bolt for the roll-up door side.

Are there any solutions to this?
Much thanks.

 

[Stillwerkin]

Picture of the sill.

 

[Willie T]

Yes, there is an answer to the high bolt and nut.

• Take the nut and washer off.
• Use a chisel to clean out a hole in the wood the diameter and thickness of the nut and washer.
• Put the nut and washer back on.
• Cut off the offending length of bolt with a hacksaw.

Now, as far as the other end goes... It's a fair bet there is one bolt up under there. It is not likely anyone would have hung a garage door on the end of a plate only fastened three feet away (although stranger things have happened).

I would drill down as close to that side as you can for a "red-head" fastener. Do this BEFORE you cut the plate so you won't split the plate. Then I would notch the jack stud as you mentioned doing on the other side to fit over the top of the "red-head".

After all that, frame up a rough door opening, then cut your plate for your door opening.

However, I would still dig down outside at the garage door, and also install some plate ties from the garage door studs down to the concrete slab. A couple of Simpson SP-2's should be long enough... or one SP-3... (or similar type fasteners) to reach well down onto the slab.

 

[Stillwerkin]

Thanks Willie. That should do it exactly!

The garage, I assume, was "home built". Only half of the double header was resting on a single 2x4 stud at the corners etc.....
They did notch in 1x6's at 45deg angle in the studs to help keep the squareness though .

Probably setting myself up for an insider joke, but what is a "red-head" fastener?

 

[Willie T]

Thanks Willie. That should do it exactly!

The garage, I assume, was "home built". Only half of the double header was resting on a single 2x4 stud at the corners etc.....
They did notch in 1x6's at 45deg angle in the studs to help keep the squareness though .

Probably setting myself up for an insider joke, but what is a "red-head" fastener?

It's a good deal that they 45 braced your corners. Too many people just dont bother with such steps anymore. And everyone keeps saying houses don't last like they used to... think perhaps some of that might be due to the fact that we no longer build them like they used to? :whistling2:

I set up my post so that all you have to do is <CLICK> on the red colored words to be taken directly to an Internet site that will explain all that to you. "Red Head" just happens to be the brand name of one of many concrete fasteners..... like "Skill" saw... or "Frigidaire" refrigerator.

"Simpson" is the company name of the most popular and code accepted lumber fastener manufacturer.

 

[Stillwerkin]

Willie T- Much thanks to you (and the other pros) on this board!

I've been waiting a year and a half to have this door.
The spacing seemed to work out magically on all sides. Now there's almost solid wood all around the frame connected with 4inch deck screws, with about 1/8 inch left for adjustment.

There was not a sill anchor next to the rollup door, go figure. Wouldn't have mattered anyway because that part of the sill was rotted.

Tomorrow, I take the door out again and dig up the concrete for a trench drain. Thanks again.

 

[Willie T]

Good job. It looks almost identical to my hanger/shop door, except mine is a left-hand outswing. (Just like yours, but turned around.)

 

[Gary in WA]

Just a side note, you just removed the shear panel required for that garage to help keep it from swaying in the breeze. Hopefully, it won't bite you when you go to sell.
A wedge anchor by other name.
Be safe, G

 

[Willie T]

GBAR does have a good point. I know you already had the studs out, and a door was going in there no matter what :wink:, but a door in the corner does substantially lessen the wind resistance in that direction.

My shop is the same way, however I built mine of metal, and the framework (truss, if you will) is all one piece, from the slab on one side to the slab on the other side. Makes a considerable difference... although still not ideal. (see the drawing below)

If you have room, some stability can be returned to that corner by installing diagonal cross-braces running above the door from the side wall top plate to the area of the post between the garage door and the personnel door. It's not great, but it will help some.