That's correct of most openers made from around 1997 and on. If your opener is older, it might be time to go shoppingRed, I just remembered the other thing that I was going to mention. Modern openers have rolling frequencies, and they will not work until synch'd with the opener itself. Check your manual, but I believe that you will find that you can "cleanse" the opener, so that none of your remotes work, and can then reprogram the remotes that you do have to work, which should render the stolen one useless.
This one has dip switches in the remote if I remember, there is probably dip switches in the opener itself (don't see any on the outside). But even if I change it, they'll just try all the combinations until they get in. I just unplugged it.Red, I just remembered the other thing that I was going to mention. Modern openers have rolling frequencies, and they will not work until synch'd with the opener itself. Check your manual, but I believe that you will find that you can "cleanse" the opener, so that none of your remotes work, and can then reprogram the remotes that you do have to work, which should render the stolen one useless.
This is not true.Another security issue, even with the opener unplugged, a garage door is VERY easy to open. You simply have to lift the door.
Home owners, double check your garage door security, you'd be surprised how easy it is to break into!
Not mine, it can be either opened by the opener, or manually. There's a pull cord above to slide the door up. I usually just use one of the middle latches and pull up with my finger.This is not true.
The door is locked solidly to the opener, the opener motor is connected inside the unit by a worm drive assembly. Pulling the door up cannot spin the opener motor through the worm drive. If the opener is properly attached to the door the only way the door can be lifted manually is if the emergency rope is pulled.
How would it burn out motor if it's unplugged:confused1:Not mine, it can be either opened by the opener, or manually. There's a pull cord above to slide the door up. I usually just use one of the middle latches and pull up with my finger.
This is what I did on both sides to solve this unauthorized entry issue.
![]()
I'll have to open up the opener to play around with the dip switches or see if the wireless can be disabled, but for now it's unplugged. If they try now it will burn out the motor.
You have to trip the emergency release to raise the door manually?Not mine, it can be either opened by the opener, or manually. There's a pull cord above to slide the door up. I usually just use one of the middle latches and pull up with my finger.
We have one of these on our garage doors. It connects to a handle in the center of the door and has a lock - when we bought the house we had it keyed the same as our entry door locks.Wow you guys don’t have a garage door latch on your doors? Up here all garage doors have a sliding latch which would be installed by the garage door manufacture and the latch slides right into the track to lock the door.
they are like $ 5.00
![]()
Yeah, mine is the same, except it is connected by bars to a handle in the middle of the door. Turning the handle rotates the 'tabs' out of the slots in the track. I'll shoot a pic tomorrow. Too late to go tromping out to the garage in my PJs.The one I mean is installed on the inside near the track and slides into a slot in the track. No key required but it does have a hole to put a pad lock if needed.
This is what you have
![]()
![]()
these have cables