Garage door opener install question

23036 Views 7 Replies 4 Participants Last post by cgoll, May 9, 2011

cgoll

Discussion Starter · May 6, 2011

I'm replacing a garage door opener with a Chamberlain belt drive model.

I'm reusing the existing, very solid, angle iron to support the motor unit and the rail header bracket.

However, due to differences between the old unit and the new, the rail is not level.

Where the rail meets the header bracket is higher than where the rail meets the motor unit by about 3 or 4 inches.

Any idea if this will cause a problem?

Save

1 - 1 of 8 Posts

firehawkmph

· #4 · May 7, 2011

GBR in WA said:
The back-hang side rails should be lower (2-3") than the elevation at front header to keep the door from closing when not hooked to an opener (springs/torsion bar alone). This is a safety feature installers are taught when installing doors (for use without openers). Four inches sounds excessive, check on-line with the door manufacturers directions. The new bent center arm should work with the opener, just don't reverse it (the bend end).

Gary

Gary,
I have been hanging garage doors for a long time and unless there is a headroom problem, I always install my upper rails level. I don't drop the back end. If the door is installed with the proper springs, the door will stay up just fine.

Cg,
If you have enough room above your door, adjust one end or the other like Ron said to get your opener rail somewhat level. That being said, I have installed plenty of openers where the rail was not level due to lack of headroom clearance. The opener will not know the difference.
Mike Hawkins

Save

1 - 1 of 8 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month