[cgoll]

I'm replacing a garage door opener with a Chamberlain belt drive model.

I'm reusing the existing, very solid, angle iron to support the motor unit and the rail header bracket.

However, due to differences between the old unit and the new, the rail is not level.

Where the rail meets the header bracket is higher than where the rail meets the motor unit by about 3 or 4 inches.

Any idea if this will cause a problem?

 

[Ron6519]

The rail should be parallel to both the floor and the track runners.
Just drop the header bracket down or raise the motor attachment, what ever conforms to the rail mounting instructions as it relates to the door.
As I remember the rail should be anout 3 1/2" above the door in the up position.
Ron

 

[Gary in WA]

The back-hang side rails should be lower (2-3") than the elevation at front header to keep the door from closing when not hooked to an opener (springs/torsion bar alone). This is a safety feature installers are taught when installing doors (for use without openers). Four inches sounds excessive, check on-line with the door manufacturers directions. The new bent center arm should work with the opener, just don't reverse it (the bend end).

Gary

 

[firehawkmph]

The back-hang side rails should be lower (2-3") than the elevation at front header to keep the door from closing when not hooked to an opener (springs/torsion bar alone). This is a safety feature installers are taught when installing doors (for use without openers). Four inches sounds excessive, check on-line with the door manufacturers directions. The new bent center arm should work with the opener, just don't reverse it (the bend end).

Gary

Gary,
I have been hanging garage doors for a long time and unless there is a headroom problem, I always install my upper rails level. I don't drop the back end. If the door is installed with the proper springs, the door will stay up just fine.

Cg,
If you have enough room above your door, adjust one end or the other like Ron said to get your opener rail somewhat level. That being said, I have installed plenty of openers where the rail was not level due to lack of headroom clearance. The opener will not know the difference.
Mike Hawkins

 

[cgoll]

Well, I didn't want to rehang all the angle iron, so I compromised. I cut the verticle bars and and loosened up some parts to gain about 2 inches on the head unit end. It looks level...enough...if you squint. (Obviously, I retightened everything in the end.) The old angle iron is way, way thicker than the stuff Chamberlain put in the box!

Anyway, I finished it Friday night and it works like a champ! My wife is happy to have her door operational again. I bought two units as at 22 years old, my side probably won't last much longer any way. And since I've done one (my first ever) the second will go in half the time! (Go away, Murphy!) Maybe I'll document w/ pictures for a project demo.

One strange thing: I originally put CFL bulbs in the unit Friday night. During the electric eye set up, it kept tripping the GFI circuit in the garage. Even after all was working well, the GFI would trip sometimes (about 3 times from Friday night to Saturday afternoon.).

I put incandescent bulbs in early Saturday evening and no GFI trips since.

Is there a known incompatibility w/ Chamberlain openers and CFLs?

 

[cgoll]

And just to clarify, the 'rail' I refer to is the part the opener's drive carriage slides on.

The Chamberlain install manual calls the parts the door rollers use the 'track', same as Ron calls them.

And, FWIW, my tracks are level. My rail, not so much.

 

[Ron6519]

Never came accross a GFI trip with a bulb before.
It shouldn't make any difference, though.
Ron

 

[cgoll]

I can't imagine why it would make a difference either, but, at least for me, it seemed to do so.

Maybe I'll let it go a few weeks and then put the CFLs back in and see what happens.