[jsado]

I would like to install a garage ceiling in my single car attached garage. Things appear a little tricky though.... The house is a ranch. I'm not familiar with all of the lingo, so bear with me here.

This is the basic framework of what I have now

This is the 2x6 support that runs sideways and sits on top of the exterior wall plate.

That 2x6 goes across the garage, through the wall...

This is the cavity above a staircase to the basement. The 2x6 continues through the next wall...

Where it sits on top of an interior wall plate.

Total length is maybe 15 feet.

Those long 2x6 supports that run the length of the garage are secured to the studs below the wall plates. There's only 2 of them.

Here's a look at the rafters and more supports.

OK, so what would be the best way to frame a ceiling here? Initially, I thought I could just run 2x6 every 16 inch OC from the wall (in the above pic) to the first support and then in between to the next support. Of course and also tie it in to the rafters.... Any help here is greatly appreciated!

edit: I do not plan on hanging drywall. I do not plan on putting a ton of weight up there. Just frame it out and plywood the top for storage.

 

[oh'mike]

How wide is that single car garage?

A 2x6 is not going to be strong enough for storage----

 

[jsado]

The garage is maybe 24 x 11. 2x6 every 16 oc isn't strong enough for storage? I can go 2x8 if I have to. That's not a problem. I really thought 2x6 was going to be plenty.

 

[oh'mike]

An engineer or framer will be along soon---you need to look for a deflection calculator-
2x6--12 feet long is light for a cieling and will flex badly if subject to a load.

 

[jsado]

The ideal height that I'd like puts my ceiling joists in line with the loooong 2x6 supports that are connected below the wall plate. (Why they are connected below the wall plate is beyond me. Shouldn't they be on top?) Is it possible to connect ceiling joists below a wall plate? I can get additional support by adding rafter to joist connections. The joist span would be about 4 feet.

 

[carpdad]

Remove the joist/beam (not sure what to call it) going across the roof rafters. Install 2x8 with the rafters on top of the wall plates. I'm assuming that is the 11' side and the storage load is relatively light. No boxes of books in the middle. This gives you full ceiling height. If that joist beam was some kind of bracing for the walls, add it on top of the joists.

 

[jsado]

Are you saying the beams that run through the 2 different walls and then rest on the interior wall plate?

 

[Mingledtrash]

The ideal height that I'd like puts my ceiling joists in line with the loooong 2x6 supports that are connected below the wall plate. (Why they are connected below the wall plate is beyond me. Shouldn't they be on top?) Is it possible to connect ceiling joists below a wall plate? I can get additional support by adding rafter to joist connections. The joist span would be about 4 feet.

They are rafter ties their purpose is to keep the rafters from pushing your walls out sideways and collapsing the ceiling. If you install new 2x8 on 16 in. centers you need to make sure you connect the walls properly to keep the walls from pushing out. the one running into your house is keeping the gable end and wall from going in or out it can be retro-fitted with a diagonal brace.

another thing i noticed is that i think your firewall between your house and garage is possibly compromised speaking of which you may have to sheetrock the bottom of your joists after installed and check your hurricane ties on your rafters i cant see to well in the pic but its something you can easily remedy before you put in the floor.

this is how to do it below the plate line

this will take care of the brace running into the other room.

 

[jsado]

They are rafter ties their purpose is to keep the rafters from pushing your walls out sideways and collapsing the ceiling. If you install new 2x8 on 16 in. centers you need to make sure you connect the walls properly to keep the walls from pushing out. the one running into your house is keeping the gable end and wall from going in or out it can be retro-fitted with a diagonal brace.

another thing i noticed is that i think your firewall between your house and garage is possibly compromised speaking of which you may have to sheetrock the bottom of your joists after installed and check your hurricane ties on your rafters i cant see to well in the pic but its something you can easily remedy before you put in the floor.

this is how to do it below the plate line

this will take care of the brace running into the other room.

Thank you for your response! First, what part of the firewall looks compromised? I can get you better pics if you'd like. Also, I assume you're saying I might have to sheetrock because of fire-proofing. Correct? If so, I guess I didn't even think of that.

I still don't think I understand how I should frame this in. I'm gonna take the pics and draw up some ideas to see what you think.

 

[jsado]

Ok hopefully this isn't too ridiculous. Here's what I originally thought I'd be doing. (before I really started researching)... The red lines would tie in from the gable to the rafter ties, which is about a 4 foot span, and then in between rafter ties which is again about 4 feet. The blue lines would be more supports connecting that into the rafters.... That probably won't work though I guess.

 

[Mingledtrash]

Thank you for your response! First, what part of the firewall looks compromised? I can get you better pics if you'd like. Also, I assume you're saying I might have to sheetrock because of fire-proofing. Correct? If so, I guess I didn't even think of that.

I still don't think I understand how I should frame this in. I'm gonna take the pics and draw up some ideas to see what you think.

Better pics of the fire wall would help for sure. what i was seeing was the trim missing of the lower man door which is a minor issue but the bigger issue would be the door up higher which i am assuming leads into the attic area. this door would need to be a fire rated door unless when you build your floor you sheet rock the bottom with 5/8 which will seperate the garage from your attic properly.

these might give you some insight.

this one you place your rafters on top of the plate line

this one you use a ledger and hangers

 

[Mingledtrash]

Ok hopefully this isn't too ridiculous. Here's what I originally thought I'd be doing. (before I really started researching)... The red lines would tie in from the gable to the rafter ties, which is about a 4 foot span, and then in between rafter ties which is again about 4 feet. The blue lines would be more supports connecting that into the rafters.... That probably won't work though I guess.

View attachment 238634

You would want your joists to run perpendicular to the way you have them drawn so they act as rafter ties what is the span in this direction wall to wall?

 

[jsado]

The beam highlighted blue sits on top of the gable wall plate and goes through the first wall with the red X on it. That wall doesn't appear to me to be able to support anything.

This is the inside of that wall. No real wall plate. Right? This is all new to me so please bear with me. The support comes from the wall on the right in this pic.

Do I have any better options for framing other than to run 2X8 at 16 OC through these 2 walls?

edit: just saw your other post

 

[jsado]

You would want your joists to run perpendicular to the way you have them drawn so they act as rafter ties what is the span in this direction wall to wall?

24 feet

 

[Mingledtrash]

The best option is to replace that beam with a new one it will need to run to wherever a bearing wall is located and have a post down to the concrete, cutting your span in half. then you will run your joists perpendicular to that beam.

What you have now is not a beam it is just a brace to keep the exterior wall from being pushed in or out.

You could span the 24 feet without a beam but you will need engineered lumber.

it appears that the garage was once larger and someone put a partition wall in for some reason. can that wall come out?

 

[jsado]

That wall seems to me to be some sort of a lack of planning. on the other side of it is stairs down to the basement.

The "beam" that runs across the garage (there are 2 actually) perpendicular to the rafters... those sit on wall plates. If I were to upgrade those to 2x8 (red in pic), I could run regular ceiling joists connected to the new 2x8 "beams" (blue in pic)and get rid of the "rafter ties" that span 24' (yellow in pic)?

 

[Mingledtrash]

That wall seems to me to be some sort of a lack of planning. on the other side of it is stairs down to the basement.

The "beam" that runs across the garage (there are 2 actually) perpendicular to the rafters... those sit on wall plates. If I were to upgrade those to 2x8 (red in pic), I could run regular ceiling joists connected to the new 2x8 "beams" (blue in pic)and get rid of the "rafter ties" that span 24' (yellow in pic)?
View attachment 238690

Your on the right track but they will likely need to be bigger than 2x8 prob closer 2 ply 9 1/2 in. LvL if you go to a real lumber yard or a structural engineer they will be able to size it for you, provide them with the length of the beam from bearing point to bearing point and the length of span of the joists.

 

[jsado]

That wall seems to me to be some sort of a lack of planning. on the other side of it is stairs down to the basement.

The "beam" that runs across the garage (there are 2 actually) perpendicular to the rafters... those sit on wall plates. If I were to upgrade those to 2x8 (red in pic), I could run regular ceiling joists connected to the new 2x8 "beams" (blue in pic)and get rid of the "rafter ties" that span 24' (yellow in pic)?
View attachment 238690

Cool. Starting to feel like I'm getting a grasp of this project.