DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My neighbor wants to install a 220 outlet(probably 30A) in his garage to provide power for a heater(not yet purchased) for when us neighbors get together in the winter.(No problem with beer staying cold though)

His main panel is recessed in one of the walls in the garage. He wants to install the outlet about 3 feet away from the lower right corner of the panel.

Wall where panel is recessed in has drywall on it.
Panel has its metal covering which can be removed and the drywall is up to the metal covering.
He has plenty of room in panel for a 30A breaker

A.would it be easier to flush mount or surface mount an outlet?
B.what type of boxes(to house the outlet) would you use for each install?
C.if he surface mounted how would physical protection be provided for cable as it would have to eventually exit the drywall to enter the box?

If the panel was not recessed things would be easier, would just run some armored cable or EMT and from panel to surface mounted box but fact that panel is recessed is throwing in monkey wrench.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,053 Posts
First no need for an outlet just hard-wire it, second you can use bx on the outside of the sheetrock if you don't mind it looking like hack work. further more in my opinion you can put rommex also on the outside of the Sheetrock but we will definitely have people that disagree.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do yourself a favour and buy a proper unit heater!! Don't want to burn down your garage. And hardwired for sure!

Is that a Fahrenheat heater? I suggested bringing the old electric dryer into the garage and just leaving the door open. Suggestion given after many beers.

Anyway if we surface mount a junction box to hardwire a unit how does the cable transition from the panel to the outside surface of the drywall to be able to get inside the J-box.

Or should the cable be run up a stud on the interior of the wall and brought into the backside of the j-box?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,636 Posts
Cables can enter the back of junction boxes. This way no surface wiring is involved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,654 Posts
Is it insulated? What is the square footage of the garage? What's the location of the garage?(geographically) Size and probably type of heater will depend on a few variables. After the heater is purchased then all the answers given will most likely be accurate...before that it's all speculation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,440 Posts
Minus,
Why don't you just cut out a piece of the drywall, run your wiring in the wall, mount your box inside the wall, then put the piece of drywall back and tape it. Sounds like you guys have enough beer to manage that, no big deal.
Mike Hawkins:)
 

·
Semi-Pro Electro-Geek
Joined
·
3,403 Posts
It's cleaner to run the wiring in the wall, and you can use NM cable instead of conduit if you do that. Just come out the top of the panel and run up the wall in that same study bay. You should be able to fish the cable fairly easily. Mount a pull-out disconnect on the wall near the heater location, and run the wire in through the back. Run flexible conduit from the disconnect to the heater. That's how I'd do it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CheapCharlie

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
The heater he is getting is to be hardwired and the manual says use #10 wire. Forget what i said in 1st post about having outlet about 3 feet away from the lower right corner of the panel.

The first photo shows the panel with the cover removed, also removed is a small piece of wood like 2ft x 1.5ft that was just nailed up from the top of the panel to right above the cut line on the drywall. The second photo is a close up of the panel.


We'll cut in an old work box several feet above the panel maybe one stud bay to the left, run 10-3 cable to this j-box. Now what type of cover goes on the j-box so that we can run our greenfield from the j-box to the heater?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,501 Posts
I don't see any spare breakers.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TarheelTerp

·
flipping slumlord
Joined
·
5,116 Posts
Extending on what jbfan said...
is there a chance that the electric clothes dryer is in the garage?
or some other high amperage appliance that already has 240V service where you need it?

hth
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I don't see any spare breakers.
Im almost positive there is room for a double breaker on the left side and if not he currently has 4 double breakers in the panel. The one on the lower left goes to a 2nd range that he no longer has and is not going to get so that breaker could be replaced with a 30A for the heater.

Extending on what jbfan said...
is there a chance that the electric clothes dryer is in the garage?
or some other high amperage appliance that already has 240V service where you need it?
hth
No other 240 appliances are in garage.




Also to follow up an my earlier post, if we did not cut in an old work box like I said earlier but instead just used a metal square box and surface mounted it to the drywall(a stud) can the 10/3 cable from the breaker, which will be run inside the stud cavity, can this cable be brought out of a small hole in the drywall to enter the cable clamp on the metal box? Or are you not allowed to have the cable passing thru a hole in the drywall?

Thanks
 

·
flipping slumlord
Joined
·
5,116 Posts
...positive there is room for a double breaker on the left side OK.

...can the 10/3 (romex) cable ... run inside the stud cavity ... be brought out of the drywall to enter the (properly installed surface mount) metal box? YES
But why not just use the (in wall) old work box for this? <- see post 13 pic
btw... how are you going to get that romex through the studs with finished walls?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
btw... how are you going to get that romex through the studs with finished walls?
good point Terp

maybe we'll have to stay in same stud bay and surface mount since the other cable runs are in that bay and cuttng in an old work box may be a pain.

If we surface mount a metal box we can screw in a 4 or 5 inch piece of wood the width of the stud bay to have a surface to attach the metal box to. Then bring the cable out of small home in drywall into box.

Like in photo the brown is scrap wood, silver is the j-box and orange is the 10-3. The wood and box would be a little higher than the photo shows
 

·
flipping slumlord
Joined
·
5,116 Posts
good point Terp

maybe we'll have to stay in same stud bay and surface mount since the other cable runs are in that bay and cuttng in an old work box may be a pain.
Go back to post #13 to look at the set up pictured.
Put the old work box in the stud bay immediately to the right of the panel.

From that cover plate with the hole...
A short piece of greenfield to a stick of conduit to a surface mount metal box.
Pull your wire, attach the receptacle/plate, find a 2p slot at the panel.
Done.

Or put the receptacle at the old work box near the panel...
and use a long cord.

hth
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Put the old work box in the stud bay immediately to the right of the panel.

From that cover plate with the hole...
A short piece of greenfield to a stick of conduit to a surface mount metal box. Pull your wire, attach the receptacle/plate, find a 2p slot at the panel.

Maybe Im missing something but that makes no sense. why cut in an old work box then run armored cable to conduit which in turn goes to a surface mounted box. Then from the surface box we still have to run the armored cable to the heater. Or am I missing something. Look at photo this is what you have proposed????
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top