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Gap with no insulation on concrete wall

759 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Gary in WA
Hey guys

I just moved in to this house and had some wood panelling in the basement that i didn't like so i ripped that off. Behind that there are two layers of foam board insulation and at the very bottom He left a space of maybe 5 inches to do wiring. Before i put my gypse back up CAN i shove Fiberglass insulation or should i try and fit as best i can foam board insulation.

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Where is the home (climate region)?

Do the wires take of the full 5" space or are they bundled together at all? Are they loosely laid in the cavity or attached to the wall?

How about a picture of the area?
Im at work. No picture for the moment. Im in Quebec, Canada..
The wires are loose in the cavity.
If you are not going to be adding additional insulation, I personally would cut some foam to fit that gap and create a channel to the front size for the wires to fit so that the foam is in full contact (i.e. no air gap) with the concrete wall). You need to make sure that however the sheetrock goes back up, that you don't penetrate a wire on the way back up.
If the basement is far enough underground, you won't have heat loss to the outside.
So no insulation necessary, but if you want to, Cut and fit sheet foam .

I would get a steel stud, modify it to cover those loose wires, insert the studding horizontal over the wires, and then rock and paint/ panel, or whatever wall covering SHMBO desires.
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Thanks guys. Was hoping that someone would tell me to put in Fiberglass..... Lol. Ill just have to spend a bit more time than expected. The basement is probably five feet undergound.
You do know that when fiberglass is stuffed and compressed into a cavity, it's insulation properties are negated?

... Yes. I was wondering whether or not someone was going to tell me not to put Fiberglass against concrete because of possible moisture build up.
While FG will help a little with the energy savings being 5' underground, compressing it will increase the density- giving you more R-value per inch- an improvement. You may need a fire-stop every 10' across the wall (as in U.S.) though I'm not familiar with your Code. The compressed FG may work as the fire-stop as it does here. There should not be any moisture build-up that far below grade, link if you need it.

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