DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all I decided to retro fit my stairs...
I made new stair treads from maple.
I fit everything first and I vanished everything the other day..

I put the finished stair down and now I'm not happy with the gap.

I'm not sure what to do with a gap I'm left with between stair and the stringer.
The gap is about the thickness of my finger nail


I'm also curious what I should put on my curved stairs for cove moulding. The molding will wrap around the stringer and underneath the lip. Have a look at pics for reference.

Also, I ripped out my oak balusters and will be installing iron railings. Problem with this is the iron is 1/2" thick compared to 2" oak. Should I put the iron I. The same spot? How do I get the iron balusters level?

How should I fasten the steps and risers?


Thanks for your help

Here's my pics
http://s1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj612/cyber-911/
 

·
recently retired
Joined
·
273 Posts
What you show is the reason I never do that type of stair but alway do a housed stair. Given that you need to fix what you have you now need to remove from the return nosing the amount of the gap. Doesn't that sound like fun. As for the new balusters the max spacing between balusters is 4", so no you can not use the same holes. For curved cove moulding you need to make a curved blank, either steam bent or bent lamination and then the profile applied, most likely with a router.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
What you show is the reason I never do that type of stair but alway do a housed stair. Given that you need to fix what you have you now need to remove from the return nosing the amount of the gap. Doesn't that sound like fun. As for the new balusters the max spacing between balusters is 4", so no you can not use the same holes. For curved cove moulding you need to make a curved blank, either steam bent or bent lamination and then the profile applied, most likely with a router.
Should I even bother trying to fiddle with the gap? Does it look that bad to a pro like yourself?

Thanks
 

·
recently retired
Joined
·
273 Posts
Given that it is your house you'll have to be the one to decide, I wouldn't feel right about submitting an invoice as is. Looking again at your pics the max nosing reveal is 1 1/4".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,169 Posts
keith i just wanted to say i like your youtube collection and dream about having the chance to work with a craftsman like yourself to learn the true skills of the trade
 
  • Like
Reactions: Keith Mathewson

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Given that it is your house you'll have to be the one to decide, I wouldn't feel right about submitting an invoice as is. Looking again at your pics the max nosing reveal is 1 1/4".
I mounted the stairs with the crack... Doesn't look too bad.. Next set of stairs I do will be perfect.. Probably never again

The nosing reveal is about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2.I'm in Canada..tx for that info Keith

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
you could have filled with putty, or you should have scribed and belt sanded your treads to the stringer rather than back beveling the edges. I have never put curved cove molding on stairs, but I have done walnut crown in a 80' dome. I just simply cut relief cut in the back and it bent around the radius. talk about challenging...
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top