do a search here. This is a very well discussed topic and you have much to learn. Air flow is critical, the wall must be constructed to dry. Do not fur the concrete walls. Wood should not be in direct contact with concrete unless it is rot resistant like cedar, teak, redwood or pressure treated yellow pine. An air flow behind the wall is needed. Moisture must be able to move and not be trapped. Moisture moves into the room with below grade walls and out of the room with above grade walls. So you have a bit of complexity here. Anything you do wrong will aid in quickening the walls failure. Using wood shows you are off on a bad start... read more and come back with more specific questions. Check out www.buildingscience.com for more details to get your started. We also need to know where you live (area not address) since the walls construction is different with different climates.
Furring the wall or build a wall?
I am new to this forum so I hope that I am doing this right. I am finishing my basement in my 1979 split level. I can't decide what to do. The exterior walls are half concrete and half framed. I would like to just furr the walls with 2x4's, but I am uncertain if this will be acceptable. Any information anyone can provide would be great.
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when you add the new wall, make sure your bottom plate of the wall is treated and give yourself about a 1/2 inch clearance from old wall to new wall, that will allow for some airflow. People do this is in new framing, just a common rule, that if wood touches concrete make it treated or space it.
I am in the south eastern idaho area, I was just looking to optimize on the space I had. We don't really get a lot of moisture down here, and its pretty dry but it can change pretty quick. The walls i've gotten done so far are framed with treated as the sole plate. Still anything you can tell me will help.
Framing a 2"x4" wall will make it much easier to facilitate wiring. plumbing. insulation also. The space lost is negligible.....
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