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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My furnace's blower motor will not start and I'm fairly certain that I need to replace the motor. I conclude this because when I tried to spin the squirrel cage by hand it spun but there was definitely resistence. It didn't spin "freely" as I understand it should, it made one, maybe two revolutions. The capacitor appears fine. I'm not able to properly check it but planned on replacing it anyway just in case. I originally replaced the controller thinking that was the culprit.

I'm having a really hard time locating the replacement though. It's a G.E. motor, with "5KCP39MG" in small letters & "R887BS" in larger bolder letters. If I try to do a search on the letters combined I get nothing. When I search the smaller letters I find several different motors but nothing that seems to match up perfectly.

The other specs are: 1/2 hp, 115v, a 7.7, rpm 1100, hz 60, ph 1.

Any help on finding the right or comprable motor would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Post the make and model number of the furnace. Does it have more than one speed. Does it have more than 2 wires coming from it. Ie: red, yellow, brown and black. If so it is a multispeed motor and you can match it up at your local electric motor repair shop, take it with you as they should be able to cross reference it for you and get a mounting band if necessary. If not try Graingers, Acklands, Johnstone Supply. Get a new capacitor at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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No. You may have to take a hacksaw and shorten the shaft on that one. Order a new capacitor also. If yours has the mounts welded to the motor that attach to the fan housing then you have to order a belly band adaptor for that one as it has no mounts. They have both lower on that page.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Yuri! Forgot to ask, the squirrel cage should spin more freely than i described, right? Pointing to a bad motor?
 

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Yep. Should be able to turn it easily with 1 finger. Run it for awhile, should be able to hold your hand on it after running for 10 mins AND it should spin a dozen revs when slowing down. If it is too hot then it is seizing up.
 

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Sometimes they can be VERY difficult to get the motor out. Pro's use the "Ultimate puller" so the wheel does not get deformed and unbalanced. Whacking it with wood and a hammer is NOT a good idea.
http://sensibleproducts.com/ultimatepuller.html

Google Ultimate puller as some dealers sell it a lot cheaper than others.
 

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I'm Your Huckleberry
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I have a puller but I've never once used it. WD 40 and grabbing the shaft with a crescent wrench while holding the wheel and spinning the shaft works just fine.

I made the mistake of using a hammer, once. Never again.
 
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