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Discussion Starter #1
I'm working on finishing my basement, which is a lookout with a half-wall. The half-wall is insulated with fiberglass batts and has a vapor barrier.


In order to frame a wall that is perpendicular to the half-wall, I had to cut the vapor barrier back a bit. It took a couple days to finish. Now, when reassembling the vapor barrier, I have some light frost on the OSB sticking to the insulation. Just a light coating. The temp has been cold (well below zero), and it's a north-facing wall. No signs of mold or previous water issues.



Is it OK to replace the vapor barrier and seal it with builders tape, and drywall it? Can I reasonably expect this to dry outward? There is no insulation on the outside, just Tyvek and vinyl siding. No sign of mold or anything of concern, other than a light frost on the wall.



Thanks.
 

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retired framer
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I'm working on finishing my basement, which is a lookout with a half-wall. The half-wall is insulated with fiberglass batts and has a vapor barrier.


In order to frame a wall that is perpendicular to the half-wall, I had to cut the vapor barrier back a bit. It took a couple days to finish. Now, when reassembling the vapor barrier, I have some light frost on the OSB sticking to the insulation. Just a light coating. The temp has been cold (well below zero), and it's a north-facing wall. No signs of mold or previous water issues.



Is it OK to replace the vapor barrier and seal it with builders tape, and drywall it? Can I reasonably expect this to dry outward? There is no insulation on the outside, just Tyvek and vinyl siding. No sign of mold or anything of concern, other than a light frost on the wall.



Thanks.
Get some heat on it and dry it out first. You just got warm moist air from the house in contact with a cold wall. There should be much there but I wouldn't seal it in.
 

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I agree with Neal, make an effort to dry as much as you can before you seal it back up. The reality is your vapor barrier is allowing some leakage everywhere so other spots have some frost also, it is expected and should dry to the outside.

I don't see your location but many areas are now advised to omit the vapor barrier on the inside and allow drying to the inside as well. Citation available if you need.

The failure was opening up the plastic which was serving as the AIR BARRIER. Your drywall will take over that function and you need to be sure it does not leak.

Bud
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for your responses. I'm in Minnesota. It's supposed to be about -30 below tonight, so I'm guessing it's best to dry it out today and seal it up tonight?


Should I be worried about the other stud bays/cavities, or just those few that I opened up? It's stapled between them, but I expect there is some air infiltration there as well. There is acoustic sealing on the top, bottom, and ends of the overall wall.


If needed, I can pull up the plastic 1/2 way, dry things out this afternoon, and reseal everything tonight.



Thanks.
 

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retired framer
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Thanks for your responses. I'm in Minnesota. It's supposed to be about -30 below tonight, so I'm guessing it's best to dry it out today and seal it up tonight?


Should I be worried about the other stud bays/cavities, or just those few that I opened up? It's stapled between them, but I expect there is some air infiltration there as well. There is acoustic sealing on the top, bottom, and ends of the overall wall.


If needed, I can pull up the plastic 1/2 way, dry things out this afternoon, and reseal everything tonight.




Thanks.
When you have it open it sets up a current where the warm air at the top of the room is pulled and drops as it cools, I doubt you would much of that where it was mostly seal as the insulation was still in those bays.
 

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Agree with Neal, best effort to do some drying but get it sealed up as quickly as possible. If you spot any openings add some tape then get the drywall up asap.

And stay warm.

Bud
 
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