DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m looking to add a front porch to my house: I’ve been researching ideas and construction elements so I can present a schematic to the building inspector for a permit.

One major Hangup that I’m having is designing the joists.

With porches, it seems that perpendicular decking is preferred over parallel decking, so typical deck joists won’t work (unless I want to install hundreds of blocks to make it work).

Is it permissible to install a ledger, and then run beams from the house to sonotubes? Or does this type of framing require that you run two sets of sonotubes: one close to the house, and one at the end of the porch, so that your beams run perpendicular from the house (from the rear sono to the front sono, without being physically attached to the home?)
 

· retired framer
Joined
·
72,543 Posts
A beam coming away from the house like straight out usually doesn't hang from a ledger. They are cut into the wall with studs down to the foundation. Is there a reason you want to run the joist sideways?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A beam coming away from the house like straight out usually doesn't hang from a ledger. They are cut into the wall with studs down to the foundation. Is there a reason you want to run the joist sideways?
I’m under the impression that most pitches run their decking perpendicular to the house.

I’m starting to believe parallel to the house (like a standard deck) is easier.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A floor plan or photo would sure help your cause here...
Not sure this will help, but it’s a sample of what some software designs populate for me. It’s essentially a free-floating deck: I was hoping I could eliminate the second set of sonotubes closest to the house and anchor to the home itself.

As discussed above; it seems I’d have to rest beams directly on top of my foundation to do that.
 

Attachments

· retired framer
Joined
·
72,543 Posts
I’m under the impression that most pitches run their decking perpendicular to the house.

I’m starting to believe parallel to the house (like a standard deck) is easier.
Depending on what you are building, with decking boards or closed in porch you would build level. An exposed solid surface deck you build in a pitch.



The down side of sticking a beam into the house is the entry into the house is a place water can get in as apposed to a ledger with proper flashing will not.
You can do free standing but then you have concerns about bracing.



So how big? will it have a roof? will it be closed in? what is the decking?


Now I see you picture.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’m under the impression that most pitches run their decking perpendicular to the house.

I’m starting to believe parallel to the house (like a standard deck) is easier.
Depending on what you are building, with decking boards or closed in porch you would build level. An exposed solid surface deck you build in a pitch.



The down side of sticking a beam into the house is the entry into the house is a place water can get in as apposed to a ledger with proper flashing will not.
You can do free standing but then you have concerns about bracing.



So how big? will it have a roof? will it be closed in? what is the decking?
37’x6.5’

Will have a roof

Hoping for Azek decking
 

· Registered
Joined
·
37,499 Posts
If you framed it the way that drawing shows you would have to make far more cuts for the decking boards and the ends cuts all would be showing on the outside edge.
Keep in mind that deck needs to be at least 6" lower then any door opening, high enough off the ground for air flow under it.
With a free standing deck there's far less chance of damage to home it's self as discussed on any DIY site hundreds of times in the past.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
37’x6.5’

Will have a roof

Hoping for Azek decking
Height of door from the ground?

Style of roof?
roof is attached to the house how? to the wall, to the roof, on top of the roof?
Bottom of door sill is about 30” from the ground.

Roof will be attached to the house wall (2 story colonial)

Style will likely be a hip.
 

· retired framer
Joined
·
72,543 Posts
Bottom of door sill is about 30” from the ground.

Roof will be attached to the house wall (2 story colonial)

Style will likely be a hip.
A hip roof also as beams back to the house that can be hung but it need something to attach eo so you would adding studs in the wall there too. You might gey away with hanging them from the rim joist of the upper floor.



As Joe said the new rule is a 6" drop to the porch, with a covered porch we are allowed that to be 2" but that is a question for the permit dept.

Can you post a picture?
What is the siding?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bottom of door sill is about 30” from the ground.

Roof will be attached to the house wall (2 story colonial)

Style will likely be a hip.
A hip roof also as beams back to the house that can be hung but it need something to attach eo so you would adding studs in the wall there too. You might gey away with hanging them from the rim joist of the upper floor.



As Joe said the new rule is a 6" drop to the porch, with a covered porch we are allowed that to be 2" but that is a question for the permit dept.

Can you post a picture?
What is the siding?
6” is fine by me: I was planning on keeping that distance closer to 7” to match the stair height.

Vinyl siding
 

Attachments

· retired framer
Joined
·
72,543 Posts
6” is fine by me: I was planning on keeping that distance closer to 7” to match the stair height.

Vinyl siding
So I would go with the ledger against the house

The beams for the hip roof is not a problem at the house but it might be a consideration for pier placement for the outer end. Or front beam size to carry that load.

Does the pier placement line up with the posts to support the roof?

Is there a cripple wall below the floor in the front or is the vinyl hiding concrete?


Are we at 20 questions yet? :vs_laugh:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
6” is fine by me: I was planning on keeping that distance closer to 7” to match the stair height.

Vinyl siding
So I would go with the ledger against the house

The beams for the hip roof is not a problem at the house but it might be a consideration for pier placement for the outer end. Or front beam size to carry that load.

Does the pier placement line up with the posts to support the roof?

Is there a cripple wall below the floor in the front or is the vinyl hiding concrete?


Are we at 20 questions yet?
Lol; I’ll take all the questions! It forces me to think about design!

I plan on lining up the piers with the support columns so I can have a straight load path to the ground. This is my next research project: how big of a beam and what span I can have. I think they’re going to be very large piers.

The house has a full basement: there’s a wood sill followed by joists on top. The siding stops just below the top of the concrete.
 

· retired framer
Joined
·
72,543 Posts
Lol; I’ll take all the questions! It forces me to think about design!

I plan on lining up the piers with the support columns so I can have a straight load path to the ground. This is my next research project: how big of a beam and what span I can have. I think they’re going to be very large piers.

The house has a full basement: there’s a wood sill followed by joists on top. The siding stops just below the top of the concrete.
Out here beams are 2 ply 2x10 unless more is needed and I would just go with that, Our decks are the same but as yours only have a 4ft span I think 2x6 joists and ledger would be good.
All posts are 6x6s
We build the deck 1 1/2" small all around, makes hanging the first and last joist easier and the we add a paint grade taller rim all around to make it look nice.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Lol; I’ll take all the questions! It forces me to think about design!

I plan on lining up the piers with the support columns so I can have a straight load path to the ground. This is my next research project: how big of a beam and what span I can have. I think they’re going to be very large piers.

The house has a full basement: there’s a wood sill followed by joists on top. The siding stops just below the top of the concrete.
Out here beams are 2 ply 2x10 unless more is needed and I would just go with that, Our decks are the same but as yours only have a 4ft span I think 2x6 joists and ledger would be good.
All posts are 6x6s
We build the deck 1 1/2" small all around, makes hanging the first and last joist easier and the we add a paint grade taller rim all around to make it look nice.

Sounds like the parallel decking is the way to go then. I guess I need to get creative with the design!

It’ll be a 6’ span. Our inspector was a bit of a over-build-it kind of guy, so I’m sure it’ll have to be 2x8 or 2x10 all around.

I think with my height, I’ll have to forgo any posts on the piers and install the beam direct. Then I’m thinking engineered columns for the roof support.
 

· retired framer
Joined
·
72,543 Posts
Sounds like the parallel decking is the way to go then. I guess I need to get creative with the design!

It’ll be a 6’ span. Our inspector was a bit of a over-build-it kind of guy, so I’m sure it’ll have to be 2x8 or 2x10 all around.

I think with my height, I’ll have to forgo any posts on the piers and install the beam direct. Then I’m thinking engineered columns for the roof support.
The span is from the house to the beam,don't include the overhang.
The taller the ledger is the lower the lag bolts want be so you may have to remove some sheeting and add structure to bolt to. Not a big deal but you would have to remove the siding below for that.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sounds like the parallel decking is the way to go then. I guess I need to get creative with the design!

It’ll be a 6’ span. Our inspector was a bit of a over-build-it kind of guy, so I’m sure it’ll have to be 2x8 or 2x10 all around.

I think with my height, I’ll have to forgo any posts on the piers and install the beam direct. Then I’m thinking engineered columns for the roof support.
The span is from the house to the beam,don't include the overhang.
The taller the ledger is the lower the lag bolts want be so you may have to remove some sheeting and add structure to bolt to. Not a big deal but you would have to remove the siding below for that.
The beam is going to have to be all the way at the front: to carry the roof load, I believe
 

· Hammered Thumb
Joined
·
4,500 Posts
You should be not designing the "deck" without addressing the roof at the same time.

Don't take it personal, but after getting a feel for your knowledge from your comments (different from your ability to swing a hammer) and just one look at your house, it tells me this should be handed over to an architect, or a general contractor who aligns with one. A deck builder would probably not be able to handle it all.

You have to get the structure and details right (like flashing and structurally connecting to the house), demo the concrete stair and sidewalk, trimwork, electrical, maybe railings, etc. that should all be pre-planned and coordinated. You don't want to just slap a deck up there and figure out the rest as you go along.

Didn't note all the comments, but things to think about:
- double check your porch can cross your building setback. Usually houses are built right at it, and most AHJs allow the protrusion, but may be limits.
- a hip roof would not match the style of house.
- a sonotube without a bell or footing may not be sufficient for roof loads
- There are many variations in curb appeal which will affect design and detailing. Like if you want a vault over the door. Type of columns. Height of deck and how that affects railings. Width of stair. Picture framing the deck.
- footings within 5'-0" of house need to be as deep as your basement
- step down out of the house is not required
- from your initial decriptions I picture you could do it for $6K in materials. But a porch to match the value of house would be more like $20K-$40K by a contractor (picture gutters, beadboard, skirting, sidewalk, recessed lights).

A dominant front porch will affect your house value to the nth degree, so don't "*******" it on your nice house. So far this thread is focused on details of the floor framing. Start with figuring out what you want it to look like and your budget. Then you figure out the details to make it look like that.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top