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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The gap is even around the entire door. It is tight where the active door meets the astragal. What are my options on adjusting this? The hinges aren't adjustable, so I was planning on adjusting the hinges by bending the hinges (hinge attached to door).
 

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No way would I be trying to bend the hinges.
Huesmann is right on if it's a wooden door, if not have you tried using longer (at least 2-1/2") screws in the hinges installed with an impact drill?
Look at the hinges, is there a blank hole where there should have been the provided longer screws that got left out?
I've seen this one important step not done on dozens of doors, remove the door or trim and the screws are still taped to the back side of the jamb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's a steel door. I screwed long screws in the jamb to reach the framing.



I've seen some youtube videos on bending hinges. One guy pulled out two sets of brand new hinges. You could see the discrepancies between them. It's a low end Jeld-wen door. I'll double check the hinges to see if they are flush. I was debating on replacing the hinges anyways, since Jeldwen just shoots primer over them.
 

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It's a steel door. I screwed long screws in the jamb to reach the framing.



I've seen some youtube videos on bending hinges. One guy pulled out two sets of brand new hinges. You could see the discrepancies between them. It's a low end Jeld-wen door. I'll double check the hinges to see if they are flush. I was debating on replacing the hinges anyways, since Jeldwen just shoots primer over them.
Are the edges not wood for about 1/4"
 

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I was just looking at Jeldwen's website. Looks like they have a good customer service/technical tab, as well as a 20 year warranty.

I would give them a ring and see what they say.

I had an Andersen door that needed adjustment , and there was a specific sequence you had to go through to get the adjustment right. Their technical people were very helpful, and I am sure Jeldwen's people will be as well
 

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If you're going to get new hinges, I'd mortise them a little deeper. I've fixed a bunch of small clearance issues with that. Can't go too deep though or you get hinge side problems.

Check how deep the hinge mortise is on the doors, sometimes those can be shallow. Depends on how the shop built them to know how consistent the results are.

Also, check the astragal to make sure it's screwed tight against the door edge. When we built these in the shop, they came with glue strips and guys would depend on them too much and not get it screwed tight.

If there's any wood on the edges then you've got places to strip material off. I'd use a circular saw and trim an 1/8" off somewhere.

ZTMAN is prolly right too, and worth a call for sure.
 

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You may also be able to sand the back side of the hinges to make them a little thinner . Let's say they are 3/16 thick if you were to belt sand maybe .15 off the back side it moves the door closer to the jamb providing center clearance . I just made up the numbers you get the idea . By doing it this way the jamb integrity/strength remains in tact .
 
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