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Discussion Starter #1
I'm putting up a 2 car garage and am looking at buying a pneumatic framing nailer. I've got an 80 gallon tank, 3hp two-stage compressor which should be large enough. Issue is the compressor is located due to wiring (220volts) 100ft from the closest side of the garage. I'll probably need 150 feet of hose. Is pressure drop an issue here? Also, I've seen pressure ratings on the nailers of 80-120 psi. What pressures are you using for 3-1/2" nails?

Thanks,
dmend
 

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100' isn't a problem at all. Set your nailer at 120psi and go after it. Your compressor is plenty big; it doesn't take much to run a nailer. You can run a framing nailer at 120psi off a little 5gal. compressor and it won't even break a sweat. Compressors don't have a hard time until you start using random orbit sanders, grinders, etc.

By the way, if you aren't in a time crunch you can get much better deals on nailers over the internet. I'm generally seeing about 50% cheaper on the web. Many times you can find packages like framing nailer, 15ga. finish nailer, brad nailer, stapler, roofing nailer, all in the same discount package and you get a screaming deal.
 

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I have an 8gal portable, and a hose reel with about 60' of hose. Drives a framer just fine. Oh, and I always run it at 90PSI. My framer is a Bostitch N88RH-2MCN. Sinks 3.5" hot-dipped ringshanks with zero problems.

Set yours at 100psi, you should do fine. As long as you are not trying to drive 100+ nails a minute.
 

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Many nailers run in a range 95-120psi. With 100' of hose or more I would turn the pressure up to at least the middle of the recommended range. With the pressure too low you'll start getting misfires which are incredibly frustrating when you're trying to hold something in place while nailing.

Newer building materials like douglas fir are quite soft and don't require any pressure to sink a nail, it is more a matter of the nailer functioning properly. If you are joining to the wall of an older home it is likely that the studs are a much harder wood. In this case I would crank it up to 120psi or the nails won't sink. A 3.5" 16d nail has a hard time getting through that old hard lumber after already punching through a new stud.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is there any functional difference between the round head and the clipped head?

Time isn't an issue. Besides, the first nails going in are the 10d into the studs/sill and top plates. I haven't looked at the internet yet.
 

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Is there any functional difference between the round head and the clipped head?

Time isn't an issue. Besides, the first nails going in are the 10d into the studs/sill and top plates. I haven't looked at the internet yet.
Some localities no longer allow the use of "Clipped head" nails for framing. They are not allowed (by code) in all the localities we work in.
 

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By the way, if you aren't in a time crunch you can get much better deals on nailers over the internet. I'm generally seeing about 50% cheaper on the web. Many times you can find packages like framing nailer, 15ga. finish nailer, brad nailer, stapler, roofing nailer, all in the same discount package and you get a screaming deal.
Everyone always raves about the great prices on the internet; there must be lots of secret sites out there that I don't know about, because I just don't see such great deals. Sure, I see a few "internet specials" or such that get your attention, but across the board, I can equal or beat most of the prices locally, comparing the exact same product that is. Which brings up the great "package" deals out there. Look at the models of the equipment included, and you will always find that these packages contain lower end components. These will do fine for the occcassional or light/medium duty user, but most pros will soon regret the purchases.
 

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Everyone always raves about the great prices on the internet; there must be lots of secret sites out there that I don't know about, because I just don't see such great deals. Sure, I see a few "internet specials" or such that get your attention, but across the board, I can equal or beat most of the prices locally, comparing the exact same product that is. Which brings up the great "package" deals out there. Look at the models of the equipment included, and you will always find that these packages contain lower end components. These will do fine for the occcassional or light/medium duty user, but most pros will soon regret the purchases.

I'm talking about packages containing the exact same tools that you would buy individually from box stores or tool supply shops. Volume discounts of up to 50% that I've never been able to get a local shop to give me. As far as nailers go you can find these packages for porter cable, hitachi, senco, etc. All the popular brands. A real pro might opt for a $500 framing nailer, $450 roofing nailer, $400 finish nailer, etc. Personally I think that is a waste, when you can get them much cheaper. An the DIYer will be fine with the $250 framing nailer that can be purchased on the internet for around $100.

Try pricegrabber.com as a good place to start to find deals. Dealtime is good. Ebay if you are careful.
 

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For example I just looked up a hitachi 3-1/4" framing nailer that sells at Home Depot for $300 and found 2 places to get it for $190 on the internet.

A Porter Cable roofing nailer $230 at box stores. Found it several places for $130, brand new with factory warranty.

Finish/Brad nailers priced seperately at stores for $330; I found a package deal for $180.

It generally isn't a matter of lower quality, it is just a matter of volume; economies of scale.

For instance, I can buy my Titleist golf balls at the clubhouse for $30/box. Same balls are only $25 at a sporting goods store, and only $20 at the local Wallmart. Then I can get online and usually find them for about $10-15. The balls aren't any different.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just searched dealtime and pricegrabber for "Hitachi framing nailer" and found nothing lower than about $219. Anywhere on the Net the only combo sets I've seen are for compressors and nailers. Never saw multiple gun sets. Cache, what search terms are you using?

Troubleshooter, I have to agree with you. My experience is when you can't find a model number available at a mfg. website they are making lower cost tools with specific model numbers for low price retailers. I found this out when I bought micrometers.

Also, try and find the exact same tool at different big boxes. I've seen where one component is changed, thus the product requires a different model number.

I digress..Back to the internet: If the model number is exactly the same and you can verify it at the mfg. website it may be getting a good deal. Caveat emptor.
 

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Pricegrabber is nice because you can read many reviews from people using the exact model that you're considering. Many times I'll use pricegrabber to decide which model I want based on user reviews, then I will look for a better price.

The hitachi gun I was referring to I did just that. Found a model that I liked on pricegrabber that was also sold in a box store, then typed in the exact model number on ebay. Many sellers both new and used pop up and you have to find a reputable one and be sure to read the fine print. Gotta make sure it isn't a refurb or something. Anyway, finding deals on the internet is really something that you get better at the more you do it. For some reason people think the good deals should just pop up when they google something. That just isn't the way it works. There are overstocks and liquidations every hour of every day, just have to put in the time.

When I bought my first framing nailer I got it with a 15ga angled finish nailer in a package. Both Porter Cable and I researched the model numbers before buying to ensure that I was getting what I wanted. I saved 45% over the local tool supply price. 10% of the savings came from buying the set rather than purchasing each gun seperately. I actually prefer Hitachi now but the PC guns are better priced, especially for DIY.
 
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