[chunter3]

Hi all,

I am working through construction documents for a new wood frame town home and am currently working on exterior details.
I have an 8'-0" X 3'-6" custom door with a 1'-6" high fixed transom window above the door: this is a non-load bearing wall, and I would like to make the header as minimal as possible. Given this is a non-loading bearing wall (entry door) couldn't I flat stack two 2x4s for the header?
I dont have the room for two 2x6s.
What are your thoughts?

Thanks

 

[123pugsy]

I'm pretty sure any plan examiner will automatically call for a header over your door/window. Then you would need an engineers stamped drawing to satisfy them that something else will work.

Is this on a gable end? A doubled up roof truss assembly over that wall may do it.

 

[chunter3]

Actually the door and transom window is under a covered entry (second floor) so I have 14" deep IJ over the door and window. The window will butt up directly under the IJ and soffit, and then the door under the 1'-6" window. Im trying to place two 2x4s flat, between the door and window.

 

[Mingledtrash]

Actually the door and transom window is under a covered entry (second floor) so I have 14" deep IJ over the door and window. The window will butt up directly under the IJ and soffit, and then the door under the 1'-6" window. Im trying to place two 2x4s flat, between the door and window.

between the door and window you can do 2-2x4 flat though i will tell you that it is much better to have at least 4 1/2" or 3-2x4 flat. you still need a bearing header above the exterior door its considered a bulkhead opening even if its non-bearing. If their is not enough room for the header your engineer and/or architect will need to redo you plans and put in a flush beam in the floor/ceilling.

so by my calculation you have 98 1/2" for the door then another 4 1/2" between the door and transom then 18" for transom this adds up to 121" or 10' 1" so 10' ceilings frame to 10'-11/8" how tall are your wall/ceiling height? for this to be doable you need at least 11' ceilings or a flush beam.

 

[chunter3]

My IJs are running across the door opening, not perpendicular so I think a doubled IJ at that location or the 4 1/2" header. The other consideration is a mulled together door and transom but I think we will have a custom door with a transom window above the custom door.

 

[chunter3]

I have +/- 9'-5 1/4" from top of finished floor to bottom of soffit, so I think what Ill have to do is make the door 7'-6" and put three 2x4s so that I can still have an 18" transom.

 

[123pugsy]

Change the I joists over the doorway to LVL's and you'll get something strong.
I joists are only 1/2" OSB and are not really strong for major loads. Good for floors though.