Framing for modern manshed

5825 Views 16 Replies 8 Participants Last post by 66merc, Apr 6, 2009

66merc

Discussion Starter · Apr 2, 2009

OK, I'm not an engineer by a longshot. I've had a little feedback on my modern manshed I want to put in the backyard but wanted to post my framing plans to date. These are rough but will give the general design. My architect (also known as my brother) is going to do some "real" plans for me. I plan to get a decking contractor put in the concrete tube piers and floor framing. I then have a buddy that will rent me a framing crew cheap for a couple of days. I want essentially to get it framed and roofdecked and then work on the finish by myself.

Am I doing goofy things?

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Just Bill

· #2 · Apr 2, 2009

You can buy premade sheds, with nearly any ammenity you seek, and have it installed on your footers. Probably for less that all this will cost. Check local yellow pages under sheds.

AllanJ

· #3 · Apr 2, 2009 (Edited)

I don't like Adobe PDF files and attachements, they take forever to download on my dialup modem and they often crash my computer.

Meanwhile I'll share some shed building ideas:
http://www.cockam.com/shed.htm

One problem I'll have to retrofit around is having piers more than 8 feet apart even with 2x6 floor joists; my shed sags in the middle as a result.

Ron6519

· #4 · Apr 2, 2009

I'd add two additional piers in the middle. Instead of spanning the whole length with the 2x8's, I would build two boxes and join them on the middle piers. It's less likely to sag in the middle.
What's the reason for the 4x4" vertical posts?
Ron

66merc

Discussion Starter · #5 · Apr 3, 2009

Allan-Sorry about the pdf files. I'll see if I can use gif or something else in the future. I'm hoping that my 2x8 floor will cause less sagging than your 2x6.

Ron--Given Allan's floor problems, you are probably right about the middle piers. Are you saying to build two boxes with the joists spanning eight feet each? As for the posts, I put those in because the front clerestory windows under the header beam span 4' each. I figured I would at least need a double 2x4 at these points. They will be exposed so I figured a post would look better. When I think about it though, I guess there is no need for them in the back wall. Glad you asked about them.

Bill--Tried the shed company route. Went to two different ones with what I think are plans reasonably showing my wishes. They both made half hearted attempts to seem interested and went right back to building their old mcdonald barn sheds. Neither ever came up with a bid as promised.

BTW, here is the site where I got the idea of the "modern" shed but decided 20k for 12x16 shed a little too much!

http://www.modern-shed.com/index.html

Eric

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Scuba_Dave

· #6 · Apr 3, 2009

Just Bill said:
You can buy premade sheds, with nearly any ammenity you seek, and have it installed on your footers. Probably for less that all this will cost. Check local yellow pages under sheds.

Have you priced sheds recently?
They want $1500 to $2k or more
And many have fall aparticle board
I can build a garage for that price

But if you are hiring people it may be cheaper to buy pre-made

Ron6519

· #7 · Apr 3, 2009

"Are you saying to build two boxes with the joists spanning eight feet each?"
I'd build the boxes to cut the 12' span in half.
Ron

Aggie67

· #8 · Apr 3, 2009

Man, I'd be all over this as a DIY'r. But that's me. Hopefully you did your homework on zoning, etc.

I want to add a comment for the OP. I'm sure he's psyched about his project, but I have a little more juice for you. I went to high school with a girl whose boyfriend/significant other/partner/luckiest-man-alive-if-he-didn't-have-cancer (he's doing well, so he is lucky, really) bought property that had an original hunting cabin from the 1900's in his back lot. Can't be any bigger than 14x16. Stone foundation, dirt floor full height basement, but it has a functioning bathroom (septic), running water, etc. An architect re-did the structure back in the 60's to be his studio. Lots of wood trim, vaulted ceilings, custom windows. So when he bought the property he turned it into a man hut. Wet bar, darts, TV, bar stools, wood stove heat, cigars, etc. There are a couple guys that make beer in the basement. I hear the arrangement is that as long as they keep a keg hooked up to his wet bar, they can come over and make beer whenever they want and use the hut.

Good luck.

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Hemingway

· #9 · Apr 3, 2009

What, no sauna?

66merc

Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 4, 2009

Cigars? Wet bar? Keg? I'M IN!!

Yes, Aggie (and it pains a Sooner to beg help from an Aggie!) I only need a zoning clearance permit, not a building permit.

One more question. The concrete guy who did my extensive driveway/porch says he will cut me a good deal on a slab for this instead of using poured piers. I still want it to be a little elevated so I was thinking of using the same deck plan but just setting it flush on the slab. Is this asking for trouble--like varmits or water problems? I'm afraid all kinds of stuff will collect/live/grow underneath.

Ron6519

· #11 · Apr 4, 2009

You would build the shed like you would build a house on a slab. Use a sill seal and a perimeter rim joist. I'd lay plastic on the slab as a moisture barrier. If you install a traditional pressure treated sill, you can use doug fir for the framing. Since the frame would be off the floor so to speak, I would run a sill in the middle to cut the 12' span to 6'. Just as I would with the two boxes on the piers.
Ron

66merc

Discussion Starter · #12 · Apr 5, 2009

I think you're telling me one of either of these ways? Is there any merit to trying to vent the small space under/between the floor joists, say by using a paddle bit to drill holes in the rim every now and then?

PS-I forgot the vapor barrier on the drawing.

Thanks again

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Ron6519

· #13 · Apr 5, 2009

They have circular soffit vent units that have a bug shield in them They come in sizes from 1" and up. A simple hole would make a rodent condo.
Ron

66merc

Discussion Starter · #14 · Apr 5, 2009

OK with me as long as the little buggers pay rent!

Thanks much for all the help.

66merc

Discussion Starter · #15 · Apr 5, 2009

Darn, just one more question! How would I insulate the floor? Would putting craft face batting between the joists be asking for mold problems?

4just1don

· #16 · Apr 6, 2009

your askng for LOTS of problems with a wood floor. why not just pour a concrete floor,,,like a garage floor and bolt the walls down to that, no animals under,no rotten floors,no crappy insulation. put 2" Styrofoam under it and its all insulated as well as some plastic. Did I see the price somebody was quoted?? Completely off there rocker. guess maybe I better go back and read better. Houses never used to cost that much!!!!

66merc

Discussion Starter · #17 · Apr 6, 2009

I see your point 4just1don, but I'm wanting the wood floor for two reasons.

First, this structure will have a deck/pergola off one side and I want the building to be up at that level.

Second, it will have a lot of music/electronic equipment in it and I want it a little elevated in case of catastrophic flood. My last music studio was in a basement that was dry for ten years until a massive ice storm here in OK clogged the storm drains. The next hard rain came and flooded my basement/ruined equipment, We don't do basement well in OK and in fact any house built after about 1935 won't have one.

Thanks

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