[PandJ]

I am building a balloon rake wall for an open ceiling room......I have 4 hold down bolts on the exterior wall line. How do framers get the wall over the bolts when lifting wall? Any tips would be appreciated. As this is in CA and earthquake land, i don't think I can notch the bottom plate to slide in? This is a 6x6 wall with 4 lvl headers so it will be heavy!



Thanks!

 

[Gary in WA]

If there is access, a smaller crane would do the job. Without a crane, I have 4 of these;http://www.qualcraft.com/construction-safety-products/roofing-tools/product/58210-wall-jack

No notching, only drilled holes for the rod.
If using those (rent them), cut the all thread rod off at minimum height to stay legal to simplify raising wall. (Installed height of bracket/hold-down plus the required number of threads on rod past said bracket after install). The floor should already have your top plate/rafter lines caulk snapped on it so you know length of studs/trimmers/headers from the bottom plate. Before you begin framing, also snap a square center line figured at right angle off the plate line so wall will stand plumb after you nail it.--- sorry, you weren't asking about framing it... The wall should be framed square and in-line with the rod so as it tips up- the rod will go in the drilled hole of the bottom plate as being raised. You may find it way easier to cut the rod off at the floor joist mid-height and use a coupling nut on the rod after wall is raised- to extend more rod (or the piece you cut); http://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Hardware-Hardware-Fasteners-Nuts-Rod-Coupling-Nuts/N-5yc1vZc2gl

Gary

 

[PandJ]

Thanks Gary. I ordered two of those jacks yesterday so I think can lift the wall ok. I guess I I can cut bolts just enough to be code but also to allow wall to tilt bottom plate holes over the bolts it should be ok. I just don't want to be trying to hammer and adjust this particular wall due to weight and 4 different lvl headers and also 6x6 post for safty reasons.

Question- should the jacks flift the wall from top of rake? it's balloon framed so should be stable if I lift at point were studs run from base to top I'm thinking.

Safety is my fiirst priority. Spending a bit to do it safely is cheaper than fixing me back up

 

[Gary in WA]

If just a rake frame wall with a couple of LVL headers, a jack behind each header (in center) will work, (figure the dead weight per jack capability) leaving the sheathing off for the jack attachment- and space above for the angle of jack stick when plumb-, cut to replace on backing framing later. Trick on the bottom plate is to metal lumber banding strap it each end (around and under the bottom plate, nailed to the floor- strap cuts off flush after wall is up/secured down) so it can only move so far, not kick-out 1/3 way up to vertical- a safety, not relying on rod/bolts alone to stop wall slide. Floor blocks usually get in the way with a wall that tall that needs to line-up on the bolts. Place jacks at top of header (utilizes 12-16' jack sticks) lets you lift/raise with only a 6-8' ladder while still using 3/4" x 24-30" pipe handles. Cut a 45* on a 2x6 stud for the lever to lift wall top onto blocks - 2x4 on edge on a flat block to insert jack. If not too long a wall, add the top sheathing without the gable rafter. Add 12-16' 2x4 braces at each end before the lift- to the wall figuring a 45* angle after wall is up, the wind can be dangerous. Sometimes the wall sheathing can extend down over the floor joist/mudsill to stop the wall from over-turning at the raising, then just nail the sheathing to sill plate after checking with a level for wall plumb. If really heavy wall, add stud braces (no nails in floor) act as diagonal braces as the wall is going to plumb- added when wall is 4' high above deck. Also add a couple of 12' braces, nailed (2-3) in top of stud in middle 1/3 of wall length to drag along at lift and nail after plumbed at each location.

Put a bead of caulk under the plate on floor before lift OR just caulk inside joint later to meet Energy Code.

Gary

 

[Gary in WA]

Further thoughts... test the 2x4 jack stick by placing one end on a bottom sill of a framed/stood/braced wall, other end on floor- pushing down on it with some force to see if it will crack or break, better now than in middle of the raise. Mark it so you don't use it for something else, use them on all the jacked walls. Nail a 16" 2x4 flat on the deck after installing jack w.2x, nailing 5-6 times if between joists, not hitting or two times each side if in joists- to back the jack from sliding. Then shoot/drive 3 -10d nails at right angle and 1" up from end of jack stick, into floor decking, as they stay only if the 2x's are long enough without falling off header when wall is plumb. If sticks are too short, don't nail the bottoms at all- add another flat 2x on top the other for higher back bracing for jack stick. The man operating wall jack can help gently push the wall as it is almost plumb, dragging with down pressure the jack/stick (if not nailed) remainder till plumb- keeping pressure against the header, same as another guy controlling the other two tall semi-permanent braces already fastened at top only when 4' off deck. IF really heavy, before sheathing the wall, nail some 2x blocks (10") every 16" away/in-line (between studs) where the brace stick will be- using these as safeties (floor blocks) to prevent wall from fallen back on personnel during the lift. If you have 4 headers, two jacks may not be enough, how long/high is the wall?

A frame wall with 6x6 every 6' for windows (6x10 headers, 4x6 sills and 2x6 studs) and 32' long, 18' high is max for 4 jacks, glad I'm retired now... lol.

Gary
PS- any questions? you have to know exactly what to expect.

 

[Mingledtrash]

I am building a balloon rake wall for an open ceiling room......I have 4 hold down bolts on the exterior wall line. How do framers get the wall over the bolts when lifting wall? Any tips would be appreciated. As this is in CA and earthquake land, i don't think I can notch the bottom plate to slide in? This is a 6x6 wall with 4 lvl headers so it will be heavy!



Thanks!

we also use the jacks Gary mentioned they are amazing. Another thing that can help is to leave the headers out until after the wall is standing.

 

[PandJ]

Thanks Gary for added information. I did not order the special bottom bracket but since optional did not think necessary. I am always safe with these type of projects. Risk should not be part of any project if done correctly.

I think I'll be ok. This wall will be a full length "thru" wall so I will definitely be bracing on both sides once up until I can get side walls on both ends up. I'll need to build those after but all will be precut and staged for quick assembly.

Mingledtrash, I thought about leaving headers out but honestly, since I'm only person building, I think safer to get in place without lifting any in after, especially the one situated near top for a window.

The one concern I do have is the plywood sheathing. It gets fairly gusty around here so I'd be concerned that sheathing may stress framing due to wind. I suppose that worry will encourage me to work harder :vs_karate:

 

[PandJ]

Gary
PS- any questions? you have to know exactly what to expect.

Gary,
so the front wall is a cathedral rake wall and 2x6. The adjoining side walls are 2x4. I'm struggling with the logic of connecting them vs thru wall. I am planning to build the front rake wall as the thru wall but just can't picture how to tie them together with 2nd top plate......I currently have bottom and plates laid out so can change easily. Both front corners are hold down shear walls so I think I'll need to keep front wall as thru wall but can't seem to grasp the tie in part once I raise the side wall.

Any thoughts or tips from your experience? The rear wall has a loft so it will be platform so much easier and is 2x4 like side walls.

 

[Gary in WA]

I meant nailing the bottom of the jack sticks to the floor (when long enough), no bracket required. OR, add some flat steel banding to the bottom plate to limit movement, Sheath just the bottom horizontal panel course - extending down to mud sill to stop wall going on over, add the rest later.

They tie together with a flat strap on the rake/flat wall top plate, used to use a 2' one there. Ask local Inspector. Brace the flat walls well and add a 2' 2x on outside top, nailed to exterior side to stop tall wall from going too far over once it's plumb. Try to add any horizontal blocking while wall is down; for panel edge shear resistance nailing later, based off the mud sill and 1st layer. To figure your length of jack stick, quickest way; measure how high off floor jacking point is- eg; 10' (height) X (times) 5 (for 5"in a diagonal across a square added to angle lengths at 45*) = 10 x 5 = 50" plus 10' = 14'2" jack stick -within a 1/4" -in 10' of accurate (works for gable truss braces left in attic also) and add the 2' needed for jack or less...

Gary