[pavlito24]

I'm starting to frame the walls of my basement, but before begin, I have a couple of questions. If you see the black pipe (Gas Pipe) It this pipe in the right place or the wrong place? because , how I should be do to frame the ceiling? I should move this pipe? Where?

The second question is about the insulation in the wall I have 50% insulated and the other 50% concrete. I have to remove the all insulation and re-insulate again the whole wall? or insulated only the bottom part? and after that start the framing?

Thanks for your time :thumbup:

 

[TarheelTerp]

Is this pipe in the right place or the wrong place?
I should move this pipe?

Unless you NEED to move the gas pipe for some mechanical reason... leave it be.
Plan to use removable drop ceiling panels in this area.

I have to remove the all insulation and re-insulate again the whole wall?
or insulated only the bottom part? and after that start the framing?

Start your framing in front of the existing insulation.
Plan to ADD additional insulation into the new and much larger void.

The question... is about the vapor barrier practices where you are.
I'll leave that to the Canadians.

 

[Canucker]

Could be a trick of the light, but your second photo, right under your duct work, looks like there is some condensation behind it. If there is, rip the crap insulating blanket off the wall.

 

[pavlito24]

Could be a trick of the light, but your second photo, right under your duct work, looks like there is some condensation behind it. If there is, rip the crap insulating blanket off the wall.

You are talking about the circle area??

It's only a trick of the light...

Men, you pay so much attention!!!
That is great for me.. Thanks:thumbup:

 

[Gary in WA]

I'd get some XPS in the rims and seal the joints in ductwork in ceiling cavity against moisture.

Gary

 

[akjose]

The distance from ductwork to wall is so short I would just close it in rather than framing around ductwork up to ceiling and over to walls. Drop ceiling in that area would be a good idea.

How much of your wall is below grade?

 

[nolimits76]

It looks like that air vent is your bigger obstacle. Doing a suspended ceiling (see below for example) might be the best option to contain the air vent, pipes, etc. The major downside is the clearance height you lose. From some of your other pictures, it looks like that MAY be an issue. The benefit of doing this type of ceiling is a little more architectural choice, ease of access to pipes, vents, etc when/if you ever need to fix/repair/modify an item.

Obviously, a drywall ceiling could also be used to get as close to the headers as possible. For maximum clearance, you'd need to move the gas pipe and the red wire and take them through the header boards. Alternatively you could use fir strips to provide enough clearance so you snug the drywall ceiling just below the gas pipe. Either way, you have to find a creative way to deal with that air vent, which looks like it's in the middle of the room. If it was on an exterior wall, you could just box down (which I would do all the way around the room, making it look like you stepped-boxed ceiling).

An example of the box drop I'm talking about. Also called a trey ceiling.

 

[Canucker]

http://www.ceilinglink.com/ Don't have to lose a lot of head space with a drop ceiling, this works great.

 

[joecaption]

There joist not headers.
A header is over a door or window.

 

[kaschmid3]

Unless u want a lot more work your gonna have to go around that stuff. Box around the air ducts using bridging(ferring strips) on the flat to minimize lost space. Pack down ceiling just a little bit past pipe (so if pipe is 1 1/2 pack down 1 3/4 to prevent bowing Sheetrock where the tie downs are) so that u can Sheetrock. Ps mark the pipe on Sheetrock

 

[Swan]

Regarding the bulkhead, I would frame it down the vertical side of the heat duct, then go across the horizontal (ceiling) right to the wall.
I have found that framing with metal channel and drywall is much easier and more square than with 2x4's or 2x2's, plus saving 2 inches of height.

As for the insulation, I would rip current off the wall and replace with either spray foam, or batt's. The current insulation is only R8, batt's can prove to have a higher R value.

If you choose this method, there are some new insights into leaving the insulation 12-18" up from the bottom plate of the wall, as well as the vapour barrier.

Hope this helps,

Swan