What type of floor do you (or will you) have. You're not building walls before the sub-floor is in are you? I think I'm confused of your question.
It's a concrete floor, but no subfloor is needed. Bone dry basement, it's not needed in my area.What type of floor do you (or will you) have. You're not building walls before the sub-floor is in are you?
Do you only have a issue with the portion of the wall that will run under the duct work?Hi All,
I'm starting to frame the exterior walls of my basement. I have a poured foundation, and there is Dow rigid foam insulation around the concrete walls (on the interior). It is silver (aluminum foil coated for vapor barrier).
I'm framing a wall along this, and the ceiling joists run parallel to my wall. I can just nail into the joists at the top (I get it), but I had to drop my wall in the middle to make room for a soffit that will house my heat runs.
I would normally block nail into the concrete foundation, but the rigid foam insulation prevents this. How can I secure this lowered portion of my framing to the wall?
Any advice would be much appreciated!
Yes.Do you only have a issue with the portion of the wall that will run under the duct work?
A picture would really help. Why do you have duct work up aagainst your exterior wall?Yes.
Where my wall is lowered, the top plates of the wall are about 1 foot lower than the joists. And, being that I have foam on the walls, I can't block nail the framing to the foundation.
I have the framing attached at the beginning and end, but the middle portion is lowered and there isn't anything to attach to. I assume code requires the top of the framing to be attached every couple studs. Correct?
Ok, thank you. In summary, the lowered portion of my wall (under the ductwork) will be nailed to the first and last studs that go all the way up to the ceiling.are you going to continue that wall across the entire room? if so, where the wall continues past the ductwork interference and where you can add the next full length stud back up to the ceiling, that next stud in the wall could be used to nail a lowered wall plate to and then run the plate back level to the last full stud in the wall as shown in the pic. fill the studs in under this new lowered plate and then build your soffit/bulkhead for the ducting off of the wall- however much soffit is needed. does that make sense? you are basically using the two full studs either side of the obstacle to nail the wall plate to that will be placed into the wall at the height needed as determined by your obstacles.
Ok, thank you. In summary, the lowered portion of my wall (under the ductwork) will be nailed to the first and last studs that go all the way up to the ceiling.
But, doesn't the wall need to be attached to the ceiling at every stud, versus only on the two outside studs going all the way up to the ceiling?
ideally yes, but obviously that cannot happen so a compromise is needed. that is simply the most straight forward approach to running a wall around obstacles while keeping wall structurally sound. make sure the two outer full length studs are nailed really good to the wall plates and double them up if it will help. I would figure out the height of the lowered pl;ate, get it in the wall and grab it and twist,yank,pull on it to see just how strong it is. if it feels solid you are good to go and it will strengthen much more after you put the studs under it to fill the wall in.
edit, you can also make the lowered plate a double and that will be stronger yet.