Framing a wall around duct work

9265 Views 16 Replies 3 Participants Last post by brockmiera, Dec 15, 2012

-MG-

Discussion Starter · Dec 10, 2012

2

Hi all,

first time post. I am building a new 'brewery' in my house and it involves closing off part of an unfinished room. I've been reading lots on framing and understand the basics. I'm just lost on how to accomplish my goal with the duct work on part of the wall.

Here is a picture of the space, the blue painters tape represents the wall or thereabouts.

The ducts are just under 8' from the ground, and the floor joists are 105" from the floor.

Here is another angle to better show the ducts:

It runs parallel to the floor joists, but its not exactly lined up with one, its off by maybe 1-2 inches. Do I need to create some blocks across the joists to secure the top plate? I also am putting in a door frame on the far right portion of the new wall and plan to just install a sliding door.

I understand the codes and allowing combustion air for the water heater and furnace and can put in the appropriate vents.

The brewery room the ceiling is left exposed and has been painted a flat black. There is barely any room between the two vents, may be hard to secure a top plate with that.

What are my options? Does anyone have any picture examples they can show me how this can work?

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1 - 17 of 17 Posts

brockmiera

· #2 · Dec 10, 2012

A picture of the joists directly above the line of framing would help quite a bit.

rebelranger

· #3 · Dec 10, 2012

Easy job. You can build the wall on the ground and lift it up or build it in place. The Joists run perpendicular to the two existing walls so run a top plate along the joist and nail in place. Then frame your wall with the bottom plate being pressure treated and your studs 16" on center. Lift into place and nail. Then drywall and finish.

brockmiera

· #4 · Dec 10, 2012

I think he said the wall he wants to frame runs parallel to the joist but will land between two joists. It will also run perpendicular to the HVAC trunk line so he's wondering how to frame a wall just below the duct but still tie into blocking between the joists for the part of the wall that will extend to the bottom of the joists.

-MG-

Discussion Starter · #5 · Dec 10, 2012

brockmiera said:
A picture of the joists directly above the line of framing would help quite a bit.

The wall itself would go right on the line that's between the black ceiling and unpainted portion as well as the duct that was taped off. It's pretty darn close to the joist, but not 100% on it.

I'm not sure if this involves blocking maybe two joists with a couple of 2x4s? It's about a 5' span of ducts in there and wiring that makes getting to that area not the easiest.

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brockmiera

· #6 · Dec 10, 2012

So does the wall that you need to build have to be completely sealed with regards to air?

-MG-

Discussion Starter · #7 · Dec 10, 2012

No, the wall is strickly there to 'semi' complete the other room I'm finishing. I want it to look good though. I dont expect with the pvc to seal it off completely, but want to do as good of a job as I can.

brockmiera

· #8 · Dec 10, 2012

Well the right way to do it would be to build a bulkhead around that duct work. Then since you cant build the wall all the way up the the joist because of those pipes and wires I'd use some furring strips or dimensional lumber and attach it to the bottom of the joists where you can. Then you can frame a wall to tie in below to the pipes. Same idea as blocking but you essentially need to bring the elevation of the face of joist lower past the pipes. Think about how you'd frame it to put in a drop ceiling. The fact that you are painting the ceiling instead of finishing it really throws off how you can finish that wall and make it look right. Thats how'd I do it anyway.

brockmiera

· #9 · Dec 10, 2012

Make sure you block between the studs of the walls that are perpendicular to the new wall so you can tie in there are as well. Assuming there is no stud in the right spot on your existing walls.

-MG-

Discussion Starter · #10 · Dec 10, 2012

Ya it wasn't ideal to paint the ceiling. I was actually going to put in a drop ceiling in that room, but those darn ducts just would make me lose so much head space that it wasn't worth it. What you mentioned is somewhat how I thought it would need to go down. Maybe I could block any light bleeding by filing those gaps with black fabric. The space would be minimal and may dress it up.

I've thought about not doing a wall period, but would be nice to have some separation from that furnace and water heater.

brockmiera

· #11 · Dec 10, 2012

You'd only loose headroom directly below the ducts. Building a bulkhead (boxing around the ducts) then drywall that. The head room everywhere else would only be reduced by the depth of the lowest pipe. Looks like 3" or so.

-MG-

Discussion Starter · #12 · Dec 14, 2012

I decided to go the route that I planned and will figure out what to do with that 'space' that will be there. Might go the fabric route and fill it in and see what it looks like. For the basic wall, and using some furring strips to connect it to the joists.

Here is a rough sketch of what I was thinking, does this make sense? I didn't really put where I would tie down from the areas that are tight and would have to figure out what makes sense when I got into it.
(you can probably tell that I don't know much about this from my sketch, and I understand the 16" studs and those basics.)

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brockmiera

· #13 · Dec 14, 2012

If this is the way you are going to do it then you'll want to make sure that you block between the wall studs of the existing walls perpendicular to your new framing. That way you can attach your new wall to it. Since you wont have header support I'd support it every 12" OC to your existing walls.

You will also need to block between your ceiling joists where the new wall will run. You said it wouldn't be centered under a joist right? Good luck!

Once its framed and attached, move it around and see if its sturdy. If it is then go ahead and drywall it. If not make sure you figure out how support it better before sheeting it. Judging from your attachment points if you can get a top plate attached to that joist blocking somewhere near midspan then your horizontal deflection should remain minimal. Thanks for the progress update.

brockmiera

· #14 · Dec 14, 2012

It looks like you can get a full stud between your ducts and piping is that correct? I'd try and anchor something there too.

brockmiera

· #15 · Dec 14, 2012

Here is what I'm thinking it should look like. Make your spacing what it needs to be to work and secure the wall properly and since you can use a single sheet of drywall across that wall you should be good.

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-MG-

Discussion Starter · #16 · Dec 15, 2012

I came close to what you suggested. I wanted to keep the door far close to that wall for flow. It's surprisingly sturdy without being secured yet. I plan to add a support or two up to the floor joist. I actually was wrong and the wall fell right under a joist.

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brockmiera

· #17 · Dec 15, 2012

-MG- said:
I came close to what you suggested. I wanted to keep the door far close to that wall for flow. It's surprisingly sturdy without being secured yet. I plan to add a support or two up to the floor joist. I actually was wrong and the wall fell right under a joist.

Yeah man that looks good.

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