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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Austin, Texas: Replacing shingles

Roof is either medium or low pitch (maybe 3:12) composite, 1 story home. The rafters date from 1946 and 1978. I replaced shingles in 1997.

Today the roof looks 100 years old, no ventilation, sagging decking, leaks, a valley that turns into a torrent over the front door. Most of the problems are found in the 1946 side.

Knowing that standing seam has gone through the roof, I worry that I'm pricing this wrong: calculating just $2,000 above their bid for the can of worms they might expose. Can this old frame be used for a fancy metal roof?
 

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Even the best roof must sit on something

Good chance that $2k goes for new deck and ridge vent, but it sounds like you know that. Any chance you can peek into the attic space (what little there is) and get a glimpse of the '46 rafters? Even if they're good enough to nail to (and if the deck's that bad why would they be) chances are you're going to want to brace them with sisters and cross braces and cripples (extra nailers and angled supports to unbow the rafters) on even a 20' x 40' roof that's $1500 to $2000 more-plus labor before you'd want a finish roofing crew to be walking around up there much less installing a roof system which will outlive you. This is one of those times when you have to ask if this is the house you want to spend 20 grand on. Sometimes its like the used car scenario-transmission goes on the old Escort-time for a different car. But if the old car is a Porsche?...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It could be a Porsche...

Thanks, Butters!

The insurance is helping and it's up to me to upgrade it. I think it's not a bad idea, but I wish I could get a much better estimate of overall expenses.

Writing here is helping me think things through and take action. When my house is nominated for an award, I will give all the credit to you guys!

I will attempt to inspect the rafters and report back. THanks!

Jackie
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Frame: Latest inspection

I found a few problems: Mainly that the 1946 side was a gable roof (I hope I'm saying this right) and the back part of the roof was left intact. The 1978 addition is taller because the previous owner installed it OVER (on top) of the 1946 roof. The shingles are all there, visible in the 1978 attic and my insurance is not covering disposal of these squares. From my guess, it's a maximum of 4 squares. No wonder I have such a heavy weight over my head.

I have received a recommendation for a roofer from Ed the Roofer, and that gentleman is so busy that he hasn't been able to come and give me an estimate. Everything about this recommendation is a homeowner's dream. I will seek this roofer's advice, but I want to ask him to include these shingles in their removal.

Now I have serious concerns regarding the architecture of these frames and how costly it would be to fix them in order to have one single unified roof.

Other than the leak, the rafters look in very good shape.
 

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Sounds like you're on the right track

For some guys it's a boat, for others a bungalow not too far from UT. All the best, Let us know what transpires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re-framing

New report, a roofer is sending a framer. I was right, this frame has to be repaired before it can be prepared for metal. This roofer is worried about the sagging deck. So here are new questions:

1) How do I determine if anything is salvageable?
I will have to make a wise decision to make sure it's a permanent repair.

2) How much would it cost to reframe? A few roofers are saying the rafters can be reinforced. But is this wise?

Thanks Butters!

Jackie
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
latest Do it Yourself

talk about overlayment!

I have it complete: With rafters, plywood, shingles, a strip of roughly 3 squares.

The addition's frame was laid on top of the back end of a lower-pitched hip roof. I should probably remove the interior shingles.

I'm going to figure out how to draw this and upload it as a picture. Perhaps take real pictures of this, too.

I'll probably have to reinforce the rafters to pull out these shingles and remove plywood. And this will be interesting, it's already summer in Texas and the attic is probably over 100 F.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Frame drawing

This is a side view seen from street level. The deck that is sagging is facing this south side in the second attic, just over the interior shingles.
Rafters in the old frame are okay, except where I have the leak (insurance is covering this repair).
 

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