Notching out 2x6's would be the way to go. Or frame it out with 2x4"s in front of the pipe and order a toilet that has 10" setback. I would not take this plumbing apart. If you decide to notch, you might as well extend your drain for the sink and place it where it goes while your at it.
Frame around pre-installed plumbing
Hello,
My basement had the drain/venting already done for a future bathroom and now I want to start the framing.
My toilet drain is 14" from the center of the toilet floor drain to the edge of the vertical PVC pipe adjacent to it. I know I need the toilet floor drain needs to be 12" to the finished wall when done. Due to this constraint I assume that I must build the wall around the existing pvc pipe......?
My questions are:
Is it possible to frame around the pvc without undoing it all?
Do you cut "C" shapes into all the studs and slide the stud into the PVC?
I assume i should use 2x6 studs?
Anyone have any pics or references to a bathroom build similar?
Ignore the Water Softner - it is going to be moved and wont be a constraint.
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My basement had the drain/venting already done for a future bathroom and now I want to start the framing.
My toilet drain is 14" from the center of the toilet floor drain to the edge of the vertical PVC pipe adjacent to it. I know I need the toilet floor drain needs to be 12" to the finished wall when done. Due to this constraint I assume that I must build the wall around the existing pvc pipe......?
My questions are:
Is it possible to frame around the pvc without undoing it all?
Do you cut "C" shapes into all the studs and slide the stud into the PVC?
I assume i should use 2x6 studs?
Anyone have any pics or references to a bathroom build similar?
Ignore the Water Softner - it is going to be moved and wont be a constraint.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
My situation is worse. The 2 1/2 vertical pipe is only 5 inches from the foundation wall and 13 1/2 to the Center of toilet drain. So I can only frame it with 2x4, probably cut the wall into two sections and leave the vertical pipe in the middle. But the vertical pipe will not have 1 1/4 clearance from the stud surface. Will that fail to meet the code? (I’m thinking to add a metal piece to cover the pipe).
the pipe is 7 feet tall and has a horizontal section right below the window, I like to have a bit space around the window. I think above the T should be the vent, can the horizontal section be lowered to the middle of wall? (will keep it higher than the sink level).
![Wood Rectangle Floor Wall Composite material]()
the pipe is 7 feet tall and has a horizontal section right below the window, I like to have a bit space around the window. I think above the T should be the vent, can the horizontal section be lowered to the middle of wall? (will keep it higher than the sink level).
You can cheat the toilet space with a curb as long as it is lower than the tank.
![Light Wood Rectangle Line Red]()
My flange was centered 12 inches from the framing and I have room for a 4" wide curb behind the bowl.
My flange was centered 12 inches from the framing and I have room for a 4" wide curb behind the bowl.
@Nealtw the idea of curb is brilliant!
If I reconnect the vertical pipe like you showed, I might have 2 options:
1) try to build 2x6 wall as the center of fringe is 17 3/4 away from the wall. I may need to slice out 1/4 to 3/8 width on 2x6 (hopefully the inspector won’t care about it
2) build 2x4 wall that would give much more room to work with. if I reconnect with 2 inch pipe, it will work for 2x4 stud since I’m allowed to drill a hole up to 2.1 inch (60% of stud width) on non-load bearing wall.
But I’m confused with the size of my existing pipe. The bottom section is approx. 2 1/2 in outside diameter. Home Depot carries 2 inch pipe that has Actual outside diameter of 2 inches. Next one up is 3 inches. I’m not sure I can find the proper fitting to reconnect it.
If I reconnect the vertical pipe like you showed, I might have 2 options:
1) try to build 2x6 wall as the center of fringe is 17 3/4 away from the wall. I may need to slice out 1/4 to 3/8 width on 2x6 (hopefully the inspector won’t care about it
2) build 2x4 wall that would give much more room to work with. if I reconnect with 2 inch pipe, it will work for 2x4 stud since I’m allowed to drill a hole up to 2.1 inch (60% of stud width) on non-load bearing wall.
But I’m confused with the size of my existing pipe. The bottom section is approx. 2 1/2 in outside diameter. Home Depot carries 2 inch pipe that has Actual outside diameter of 2 inches. Next one up is 3 inches. I’m not sure I can find the proper fitting to reconnect it.
Thank you for the remainder. Most likely I need to remove the existing insulation so I have enough space to build the stud Our code requires new insulation to be R20 and up to 8 inches from the ground (not sure why).
I mocked up the framing, the 2 inch pipe will be in two walls sections, the pipe is almost close to the edge of stud. the worst case scenario, if the code requires, I can add a piece of metal or wood to cover the pipe. that is 19 inches should be below the toilet tank.
I prefer to build the sink at the other side of wall so I can avoid the overhead ductwork beside the toilet. but I have to make 90 degree turn in the wall , which is another obstacle
What will go in the 30x 32 space?Thank you for the remainder. Most likely I need to remove the existing insulation so I have enough space to build the stud Our code requires new insulation to be R20 and up to 8 inches from the ground (not sure why).
I mocked up the framing, the 2 inch pipe will be in two walls sections, the pipe is almost close to the edge of stud. the worst case scenario, if the code requires, I can add a piece of metal or wood to cover the pipe. that is 19 inches should be below the toilet tank.
View attachment 707205
I prefer to build the sink at the other side of wall so I can avoid the overhead ductwork beside the toilet. but I have to make 90 degree turn in the wall , which is another obstacle
View attachment 707193
How high is the top of the concrete?
How deep is the frost line where you are?
The space at the right to the toilet is supposed to be a sink, but the lowest point from the duct is 73 inches to the ground. Other duct is 82 inches high. I will lose 2-3 inches after the framing (so I will also be having challenge to find a glass shower door as the standard seems to be 80 inches everywhere). Too much going on in this bathroom area.
The frost line in my area is 48 inches.
if I need to vent the drain at the other side, I will have problem to add a vent pipe. Now I have to debate whether I should move the sink location 🙄
Move in closer the vanity can be 21" from the bowl of the toilet and the drain can come in the side of the vanity.The space at the right to the toilet is supposed to be a sink, but the lowest point from the duct is 73 inches to the ground. Other duct is 82 inches high. I will lose 2-3 inches after the framing (so I will also be having challenge to find a glass shower door as the standard seems to be 80 inches everywhere). Too much going on in this bathroom area.
The frost line in my area is 48 inches.
if I need to vent the drain at the other side, I will have problem to add a vent pipe. Now I have to debate whether I should move the sink location 🙄
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