[Killavolt]

I'm running power to a shed, found the perfect sub panel that flush mounts in the ideal spot.....and then I read on the ESA website; "Also, if the sub-panel is located in a detached garage or inside a shed, a disconnecting means shall be provided either integral to the sub-panel or adjacent to it (within sight and 9 meters)."


So now I'm faced with a dilemma, does any kind of flush mount disconnect switch exist?

OR

Is there a clean way to run wires through the backing board to use a surface mount disconnect switch?

OR

Is there a flush mount subpanel similar to this one, with similar dimensions and a main breaker or disconnect switch built in?
http://www.rona.ca/en/240-vac-100-a-eql-load-center-single-phase-and-3-wires-2263011

Attached is where the current sub panel is hopefully going to be mounted. It's a window that I didn't want so it's now blocked off from the back and I want to use that space for a sub panel.

The main power will be coming into the bottom of the panel.

 

[Jim Port]

Just install a panel with a main breaker.

 

[Killavolt]

Just install a panel with a main breaker.

I can't find one small enough. I only need 4 spaces/circuits so I didn't want to buy a panel with more spades than needed.

If you know of one point me to it and that would solve my problem.

 

[Jim Port]

Install a 2 pole breaker with a backfeed clip in the existing panel.

 

[Killavolt]

what's a backfeed clip?

I was think of back feeding the subpanel and using tandem breakers.
It's a Siemens panel.

 

[Jim Port]

It holds the breaker onto the bus. It is used when power comes into the breaker instead of the panel lugs.

 

[rjniles]

A hold down clip. Prevents the main breaker from being removed without removing the hold down.

IMO, mistake to use a panel and not have a few spares for future.

 

[Jim Port]

Tandems are more expensive than regular breakers.

 

[Killavolt]

A hold down clip. Prevents the main breaker from being removed without removing the hold down.

IMO, mistake to use a panel and not have a few spares for future.

It's a 10x10 shed, with a light, AC, heater and 4 outlets.
I can't possibly imagine why I might need more than that, and I've really been trying to consider what I may need more circuits for.

Tandems are more expensive than regular breakers.

they are, but it's not by much, and if I backfeed this panel the double pole breaker will take up 2 slots, so that only leaves me 2 slots for the 4 circuits I planned on putting in.

If I could find a main breaker subpanel that would fit in a 10"x22" space I'd use that instead.

 

[Jim Port]

A regular panel is only 14.25 inches wide. It looks like it would fit.

 

[rjniles]

I see you are in Canada so your panels have requirements not found in US panels.

Here is a Canadian panel that is 9" by 13", Homeline 6 apace, 12 circuit.

This would let you use 2 spaces for a main breaker and have 4 full size spaces for your branch circuits.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....-6-spaces-12-circuits-maximum.1000726687.html

BTW, I thought in Ontario all electrical work required a licensed electrician.

 

[rjniles]

We may not be correct in assuming a main breaker can be a disconnect for CEC applications. We need a Canadian sparky to give us a sanity check.

 

[Killavolt]

A regular panel is only 14.25 inches wide. It looks like it would fit.

the space is 10" wide, so it wouldn't fit.

I see you are in Canada so your panels have requirements not found in US panels.

Here is a Canadian panel that is 9" by 13", Homeline 6 apace, 12 circuit.

This would let you use 2 spaces for a main breaker and have 4 full size spaces for your branch circuits.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....-6-spaces-12-circuits-maximum.1000726687.html

BTW, I thought in Ontario all electrical work required a licensed electrician.

That isn't flush mount.

a homeowner is allowed to do the work themselves as long as it's done to code.

So what'll happen is I'll do the mock up electrical, dig a trench and get the permit.
Then the inspector will come out and inspect the trench and the laid out wiring & electrical work.

If there are any problems then they need to be fixed first, if there are no problems then he'll sticker the work and I can finish it all up.

 

[Killavolt]

We may not be correct in assuming a main breaker can be a disconnect for CEC applications. We need a Canadian sparky to give us a sanity check.

That would be my best hope, I may call the ESA tomorrow and see if they can give me an answer.

I read somewhere that if there's less than 6 handles that it doesn't need a main breaker or disconnect.

I also might be able to move the 2x4's on either side of the current breaker box enough to squeeze in a larger one with a main breaker.

 

[Killavolt]

Well I bit the bullet and just bought a 60A main breaker sub panel, I had to widen the 2x4's to make room for the new 14" panel, and I think I can just spray foam behind it, trim up the foam and have a nice tight weatherproof seal so no moisture gets into the panel.