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please help me get this toilet to flush all the contents of the bowl like it did when it was first installed in 2017

5 30 17 i pulled aquasource 98923 toilet fill valve that came preinstalled on aquasource toilet and replaced with fluidmaster fill valve as aquasource fill valve was getting stuck/ overfilling inside the tank
((original fill valve looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/Axent-Original-WDI-Anti-Siphon-Toilet/dp/B00QR1D5BC

5 8 18 the toilet has not properly flushed ever since. flushing does not fully evacuate the toilet . the water enters the bowl but does not flush the contents effectively even when it's just urine.
a plunger must be used every time

does this aquasource toilet require a particular fluidmaster fill valve to flush properly? please let me know how/what the solution is to get the toilet to flush entire contents completely / efficiently including part numbers or links to parts
 

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please help me get this toilet to flush all the contents of the bowl like it did when it was first installed in 2017

5 30 17 i pulled aquasource 98923 toilet fill valve that came preinstalled on aquasource toilet and replaced with fluidmaster fill valve as aquasource fill valve was getting stuck/ overfilling inside the tank
((original fill valve looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/Axent-Original-WDI-Anti-Siphon-Toilet/dp/B00QR1D5BC

5 8 18 the toilet has not properly flushed ever since. flushing does not fully evacuate the toilet . the water enters the bowl but does not flush the contents effectively even when it's just urine.
a plunger must be used every time

does this aquasource toilet require a particular fluidmaster fill valve to flush properly? please let me know how/what the solution is to get the toilet to flush entire contents completely / efficiently including part numbers or links to parts
I'm sure you'll be ask several questions so I'll ask the first.

Is the new fill valve allowing the tank to be filled to the manufacturer's recommended level?
 

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If you hold the handle down, will it then flush completely? Reason I ask is all of mine require you to hold it down until it's flushed completely.
 
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Take a bucket. Put 1.28 gallons (4.8 liters) in it. Dump it in the bowl quickly. The toilet should flush or evacuate the bowl. (It won't have the normal wash down or bowl rinse, but the water should leave the bowl quickly)

If it doesn't, your problem has nothing to do with the tank/fill valve. You have a blockage/obstruction in the trap, in the sewer pipe, or possibly the vent pipe.
 

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Take a bucket. Put 1.28 gallons (4.8 liters) in it. Dump it in the bowl quickly. The toilet should flush or evacuate the bowl. (It won't have the normal wash down or bowl rinse, but the water should leave the bowl quickly)

If it doesn't, your problem has nothing to do with the tank/fill valve. You have a blockage/obstruction in the trap, in the sewer pipe, or possibly the vent pipe.
Thanks for asking my 2nd question for me.:biggrin2: It sure saved me some typing and it had magically appeared when I rose from my PM nap.:vs_cool:
 

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DR P..... Curiosity... I've wondered this before

What is better about the performax..... seems to me either the tank fills or it doesn't...... (usually there is not a line waiting for it to fill... at least in my home:wink2:

Best
performax fluidmaster is designed & rated for all low flush wc's
the standard fluidmaster is only rated for wc's made before 1994...

performax's flow rate is ~ 2X a standard fluidmaster.
can also adjust the amount of water flowing into overflow/refill

this higher flow is crucial during flush cycle for better performance
& most all low flush wc's now come with a higher flow fill valve initially
changing to a lower flow fill valve will negatively affect the flushing efficiency

Peace
 

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The American Standards I recently installed don't depend on the fill valve to flush. Closing the water supply it flushes the same. It all happens in about 1.5 seconds and if you should happen to accidentally or on purpose, drop your pet baby monkey in at that time he's a gonner.
 

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The American Standards I recently installed don't depend on the fill valve to flush. Closing the water supply it flushes the same. It all happens in about 1.5 seconds and if you should happen to accidentally or on purpose, drop your pet baby monkey in at that time he's a gonner.
yeap, current A/S 3" piston flush valve works well if water level in bowl is properly adjusted (was not always that way with 1st run piston utilizing a magnetic release); although an inspection of the fill valve inside should reveal a blue top performax fluidmaster is in play (even though it might be identified as an AS on blue cap) - go figure.

if nothing changed with OP's WC except new fill valve, then it is most likely either the flowrate of fill valve, or water level is improperly adjusted in bowl via the mini valve adjuster of that HC630.

Peace
 

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Not long ago I installed a Niagara toilet. Uses .8 gallons per flush and flushes completely every time. Being on a well, I appreciate the reduction in water usage.

I am still at a loss how the fill valve has anything to do with flushing. My understanding once the toilet is flushed, the fill valve fills the tank to ready it for the next flush. What am I missing?
 
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Not long ago I installed a Niagara toilet. Uses .8 gallons per flush and flushes completely every time. Being on a well, I appreciate the reduction in water usage.

I am still at a loss how the fill valve has anything to do with flushing. My understanding once the toilet is flushed, the fill valve fills the tank to ready it for the next flush. What am I missing?
My curiosity also CHANDLER.

Maybe if the new fill valve fills faster, then it adds a little water to the flush before the flap closes....???????

But I don't get it either.
 

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My curiosity also CHANDLER.

Maybe if the new fill valve fills faster, then it adds a little water to the flush before the flap closes....???????

But I don't get it either.
I don't design 'em & I don't make 'em but when it gets down to brass tacks, every bit more of water you can push through a water saving bowl during a flush helps improve that flush & conversely, every bit of water you remove during a flushing cycle can/will negatively affect the flush; especially if the cycle starts with the incorrect water level in the bowl, requiring the bowl to properly fill before it can flush.

The performax fill valve claims a higher flow/fill rate which means it can allow more water to enter in the flushing equation than a standard fill valve.

speaking of American Standard, remember the ole tilt flush disc/flapper that showed up in 60s when they went to 3.5 GPF technology?
https://www.amazon.com/American-Standard-047107-0070A-Flush-Assembly/dp/B0026T2P24

ever wonder why that design was needed & better yet why if a standardized universal flapper that installed by sliding down unto the overflow tube did not work well at all?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKU3LA...rky+universal+flapper&hsa_cr_id=6842756210101

that tilt flush had a water tube on top that forced the disc to stay up & open for a longer period, even when all the water had exited the tank... to allow the extra flow from the fill valve to enter into the flushing cycle & thereby guarantee that bowl flushed/rinsed well. without the tilt flush assembly installed, most of those bowls would not even hardly siphon... :vs_mad:

so the homeowner would eventually cull/replace a perfectly good flushing toilet due to an incorrect part installed. go figure

Peace
 

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So, holding the lever down for a few extra seconds until after the flapper would normally have closed would have the same effect as the specialty long-lasting flapper. Right?

I'm still lost as to how the fill rate could impact the flush. Seems like they're two separate functions. Unless you flush before the tank has filled, but I don't think that's what we're talking about here.

I'm curious because we have a toilet which doesn't fully clean the bowl on the first flush, and I'm pretty sure there's no blockage. I always just assumed a poor design.
 

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So, holding the lever down for a few extra seconds until after the flapper would normally have closed would have the same effect as the specialty long-lasting flapper. Right?

I'm still lost as to how the fill rate could impact the flush. Seems like they're two separate functions. Unless you flush before the tank has filled, but I don't think that's what we're talking about here.

I'm curious because we have a toilet which doesn't fully clean the bowl on the first flush, and I'm pretty sure there's no blockage. I always just assumed a poor design.
Yea... Like Chandler and CapTom.... I sure understand how the flapper is extreemly important to flush effectiveness.....

just not quite so much how the fill rate (fill valve/mechanism) has any affect.... except if it is dumping water into the flush..... in which case we are just saying it is not a Xgal flush toilet...... not much different than if we cheat it and put a nipple on the overflow pipe extending it.?

Maybe Performax is just clever marketing... capturing a "new improved" (non-existant) technology for everyone that is having a poor flush with the new low volume toilets.
 

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I realize I didn't finish this thought; multitasking evidently is not my best default setting - duh

...especially if the cycle starts with the incorrect water level in the bowl, requiring the bowl to properly fill before it can flush.

The performax fill valve claims a higher flow/fill rate which means it can allow more water to enter in the flushing equation than a standard fill valve...
the fill cycle is so short that the higher flow rate also enters into overflow tube (when adjusted properly) & helps ensure the bowl level is full to flood rim for next flush cycle, which is very critical for consistent flushing efficiency in low flush toilets.

in the old 1.6 GPF toilet, holding handle could help the flush performance but now the piston or flapper seat is significantly raised up off the bottom of tank floor in the 1.28 & 1.0 GPF newest government mandated toilets & of course the overflow tubes are also lower on purpose too... ty big brother.

next time in big box store, take survey of how many 1.6 GPF toilets there are actually available for purchase... 1 maybe 2 out of entire lot to choose from & usually it is a house brand & or entry level grade toilet at best...

if a HO has old metal pipes or a bastard vent configuration such as a horizontal dry vent, the 1.28 & lower flush toilet is not their friend...

as for OP toilet, they did let new flush valve ride a year before asking for help here, so is there a build up in bowl/line, is bowl level low, did they change TP?
go figure

Peace
 
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