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I agree, bad ballast. The ballast is the other “active” part of the fixture.

OP this is a job that requires accuracy and precision... noting the slang way you talk where you call a fluorescent tube a “light”, this may not be a job for you. If you are a tenant, it’s definitely not your job; the landlord is obliged to fix it and you’re not allowed to rewire stuff in a rental unit.

There are 3 options here:

- Replace with an electronic ballast designed to drive that same identical tube type. (Did I mention need for precision and detail?). Then keep using the same tubes (but they won’t flicker or buzz anymore lol).

- Replace the tube with a “direct wire” LED “tube” made to fit that fixture, then rewire the fixture to bypass the ballast altogether.

- Replace the entire fixture.

If it were me, I would seek out a reputable manufacturer of LED “tubes” such as Cree (a major LED player) or Sylvania, GE, Philips, any of the old Phoebus Cartel members. And pay close attention to color temperature and CRI, so you don’t accidentally get a super blue light in your kitchen (gross)!

Hey, are you guys alright?

You guys?

Thought I lost ya there. Yeah, this is me recommending LED. I don’t like those weird sizes, and the risks of hokey LED “tubes” is worth it if you can avoid weird $9 tubes. Sorry you wasted your money on that OP, the big box store will probably take it back.

OP if that feels out of your comfort zone, then just replace the whole frickin’ fixture. Take pictures of the wiring BEFORE you disconnect the old light. In fact, just cut the black/white wire right at the old light, and attach your new light to those pigtails. That way you’re not back here showing us a picture of 12 wires going “how do these all go?”
 
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