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Our laundry room and kitchen have 3 Florescents. We had the kitchen fixture taken down and a LED installed. Then we had the kitchen FL swapped for the FL in the back of laundry that had been buzzing and flickering. After a week that one quit. Anybody care to venture why that might have happened?

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Might be a power supply problem of some kind. For instance, a "Lost Neutral" is a very serious power problem that is subtle and can take awhile to become aware of. Check a variety of your power sockets, if some voltages are below 120V while others are equally above, and it changes when you add loads, that's an emergent condition that should be dealt with PDQ. It will fry more expensive appliances than fluorescent lights!

Other than that, it's likely that in handling, the fluorescent tube(s) got bumped so they're not sitting in the sockets all the way. If you look close at the ends of the tubes, there's a little "dimple" that helps you know if they're square-on to the tombstone (socket). Happens all the time to me.
 

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FL are a foreign country to me. I'll look for that dimple.

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Fluorescent lights are awesome tech, but then so are steam locomotives and battleships. Note that all of them got really good right before the end, and that's where fluorescent is right now. I'm staying with it for awhile because it's so good. Thanks Tesla.

As far as practically working with them, modern ones have electronic ballasts that use 2 types of wiring - either 2 wires per tube end (for the preheaters) or just one (shock start ignoring the preheaters). Modern ballasts are readily available cheap from top tier makers, and the eBay supply is reliable (nobody's counterfeiting ballasts lol).
 

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Well I this fixture is for 4 tubes so it has 2 ballasts. Since we only had 2 tubes in it can I just swap over and use the other ballast?

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I can find a replacement ballast at the L store locally or get one thru Amazon. On the other hand I can replace with an LED fixture. Wife and I are still "discussing".

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I can find a replacement ballast at the L store locally or get one thru Amazon. On the other hand I can replace with an LED fixture. Wife and I are still "discussing".

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Or replace the tubes with direct wire LED tubes and remove the ballast. Lot easier than changing the fixture and cheaper.
 
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Well I this fixture is for 4 tubes so it has 2 ballasts. Since we only had 2 tubes in it can I just swap over and use the other ballast?
Yes, sure, if the ballast is working.

I can find a replacement ballast at the L store locally or get one thru Amazon. On the other hand I can replace with an LED fixture. Wife and I are still "discussing".
You already know these guys would have you rewire the fixture for direct-wire LED "tubes" and call it a day. Not a terrible option. Figure about $40 for ones good enough that all 4 will last a whole year. You'll have to shop VERY carefully to find the color temp and quality you want, it's super easy to come home with 6000K ones that are dizzyingly blue, or "4000K" ones whose color rendering index is, haha, not 90 CRI.

Myself, I am staying with real fluorescent, since for about the same money, you get reliable suppliers like GE and Sylvania, and the light is better. Modern fluorescent is really good. I'd start by photographing the ballast's labeling and see what size of tubes it takes, and whether it sends 2 wires to each end of each tube, or only 1 wire to each end. Post the pic here, and we can consult on correct ballasts.

If we assume you have common 4 foot fixtures:

- 1-wire is "instant-start" and you can buy a new GE 4-lamp T8 ballast for $11.

- 2-wire allows "rapid or programmed start" and they are better ballasts with longer bulb life. Programmed start allows over 100,000 bulb starts, so great for bathrooms, motion sensors etc. This guy has "lower light output" 2-lamp F32 T8 ballasts for $9 shipped, for 2 for $15 shipped. I have had good luck with eBay as long as it's a brand name like GE, Advance, etc; the Chinese aren't exactly counterfeiting fluorescent ballasts lol.

I recommend going over to T8 tubes (tube must match ballast); T8s will be supported indefinitely, T12 is being phased out. And you can get 90 CRI tubes in any color temperature you want at the hardware store. LED can't say the same with any reliability.
 

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You already know these guys would have you rewire the fixture for direct-wire LED "tubes" and call it a day. Not a terrible option. Figure about $40 for ones good enough that all 4 will last a whole year.

Myself, I am staying with real fluorescent, since for about the same money, you get reliable suppliers like GE and Sylvania, and the light is better. Modern fluorescent is really good.
You know, we all understand your passion for fluorescent and your dislike for LED. We get that. When you expound upon the virtues of fluorescent, for the most part what you say about them is true. So how about giving the same facts about LED? Facts like , if you buy quality, approved LED lamps they will outlast fluorescent? And save you money throughout their expected lifespan? Supply all the facts truthfully and then let the person decide for themselves.

I've sold literally 10s of 1,000s of 4' LED tubes in the last 5 years. Good quality tubes. Yes, they are in the $10-$15CAD range depending on how many you buy. I supply them with a 4 year warranty. Know how many warranty claims I've had?

4. That's it. The rest are still going strong. Most of them are in office and retail environments so they are being used.

Maybe you've had a bad experience with them, there were some crappy products on the market early on, yes. Maybe your thinking some kind of job security where they will keep calling you back to change ballasts, I don't know.

But be fair at least.
 

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Direct wire LED tubes? I didn't know that. Have to research them.

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