A shared wall can have various materials in it to make it fire code approved. As long as you don't remove the material, you can cut out the sheetrock. Find the edge of the studs and cut along the edge. Cut out enough width to install 2x6 or 2x8. Use 3-3" screws each side, toe nailing at least 1" away from the blocking edge, countersinking first so you can sink the screw heads. Then you can return the sheetrock and tape and mud.
Floating Kitchen Cabinet install
Hi All!
I am a fairly competent (albeit somewhat beginner) DIY-er and was looking for some advice. (Sorry about the lack of correct terminology!)
I recently bought a floating side cabinet for my kitchen, that I'm debating whether I can install it myself, or if I should have a pro do it.
I've installed Ikea wall cabinets (BESTA) using a steel rail and they seems fairly secure.
So this kitchen side cabinet is 29" wide by about 65" high. When I bought it, I was told there would be a rail to install it with, but it turns out, there are just two steel brackets (about 3 inches wide) screwed into the the middle of it, on the left & right sides of the back panel, and 2 accompanying steel brackets that get installed in the wall to drop them into.
Obviously, this means that only 1 of the brackets at most will hit a stud. Since I will likely put a fair amount of dishes and things into it, I'm concerned that this system wont' hold.
My thought was to basically put a horizontal pine board (as a sort of cleat) along the wall which would be drilled into 2 studs (at 0" & 16"), and a 3rd screw into a toggle bolt at around 28". The cabinet top (which extends about 2" past the back panel) could then sit on this as one support ... I would then screw the cabinet into the cleat at 3 points also (2nd form of support). I would also have the 2 existing brackets (1 in a stud and 1 in toggle bolt also) as a 3rd support.
And lastly, for extra (4th) support, I would put a vertical pine board down the middle, nailed into the stud a few times and attach the cabinet at a few points along this.
Do you think this system would work, is it overkill, or does it seem likely to fail?
The store suggested, after I called them and informed them of the 'missing' rail and the 29" brackets, that I cut out the drywall in the size of the cupboard, screw in a piece of plywood that large, and screw the cupboard onto that. I don't know if this would be to fire code since this is on the shared wall of a semi-detached.
I really appreciate any thoughts and tips!
I am a fairly competent (albeit somewhat beginner) DIY-er and was looking for some advice. (Sorry about the lack of correct terminology!)
I recently bought a floating side cabinet for my kitchen, that I'm debating whether I can install it myself, or if I should have a pro do it.
I've installed Ikea wall cabinets (BESTA) using a steel rail and they seems fairly secure.
So this kitchen side cabinet is 29" wide by about 65" high. When I bought it, I was told there would be a rail to install it with, but it turns out, there are just two steel brackets (about 3 inches wide) screwed into the the middle of it, on the left & right sides of the back panel, and 2 accompanying steel brackets that get installed in the wall to drop them into.
Obviously, this means that only 1 of the brackets at most will hit a stud. Since I will likely put a fair amount of dishes and things into it, I'm concerned that this system wont' hold.
My thought was to basically put a horizontal pine board (as a sort of cleat) along the wall which would be drilled into 2 studs (at 0" & 16"), and a 3rd screw into a toggle bolt at around 28". The cabinet top (which extends about 2" past the back panel) could then sit on this as one support ... I would then screw the cabinet into the cleat at 3 points also (2nd form of support). I would also have the 2 existing brackets (1 in a stud and 1 in toggle bolt also) as a 3rd support.
And lastly, for extra (4th) support, I would put a vertical pine board down the middle, nailed into the stud a few times and attach the cabinet at a few points along this.
Do you think this system would work, is it overkill, or does it seem likely to fail?
The store suggested, after I called them and informed them of the 'missing' rail and the 29" brackets, that I cut out the drywall in the size of the cupboard, screw in a piece of plywood that large, and screw the cupboard onto that. I don't know if this would be to fire code since this is on the shared wall of a semi-detached.
I really appreciate any thoughts and tips!
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
By the way, you sound like you found the meaning of life.:laughing:
Thanks, carpdad.
Are you saying to install the 2x6's horizontally between the studs to act as other places I can screw the cabinet into?
Sorry for my ignorance.
And you think this will be stronger than what I was thinking?
Would the toe-nailed pieces really be that strong?
And meaning to life: yes - if only we knew the question!:thumbup:
Are you saying to install the 2x6's horizontally between the studs to act as other places I can screw the cabinet into?
Sorry for my ignorance.
And you think this will be stronger than what I was thinking?
Would the toe-nailed pieces really be that strong?
And meaning to life: yes - if only we knew the question!:thumbup:
Toe nailing with screw is strong. Cut the 2x snug between studs. Pre-drill with a bit larger than the screw. Counter sink the starting hole so you can sink the screw head and not split the wood. Sink the screw snug, not torqing. This is only way you can retrofit a block that will hold.
Good luck.
Good luck.
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
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