[greentrees]

In my garage I have 4 light sockets. The light switch has motion detection so when I enter the garage the lights turn on automatically. They turn off after about 5 minutes of inactivity. I initially tried 4 LED lights, but the lights would not turn off after the 5 minutes of inactivity. They would go to a dim lighting state. I put in one incandescent light into one of the light sockets and that solved the problem. After the 5 minutes the lights went off.
I have 3 basement light sockets that are on the same circuit. Recently one light started to flicker, then it went to a low light state (see photo). I replaced the existing 600luman bulb with the 750luman bulb. The lights are staying on for now.

Is the 600luman bulb just ending its life and that is why it flickered and then went to the dim state? I had the same problem in the garage a few months ago maybe with the same type of bulb. Are the two bulbs that much different to cause a problem with the circuit? 135ma vs 138ma. I would like to use 5000k bulbs but the one’s that seem to be working are 3000k. I am not sure if that would cause an issue.

 

[greentrees]

I replaced the motion sensor switch in the garage with a switch compatible with LED's. One light in the basement has a delay of turning on compared to the other two lights in the room. Not sure what might be causing that issue.

 

[joe-nwt]

I replaced the motion sensor switch in the garage with a switch compatible with LED's. One light in the basement has a delay of turning on compared to the other two lights in the room. Not sure what might be causing that issue.

Cheap lamps will sometimes do this. Always buy quality, listed products with LED. Not saying yours are not.

 

[greentrees]

I replaced the motion sensor switch in the garage with a switch compatible with LED's. One light in the basement has a delay of turning on compared to the other two lights in the room. Not sure what might be causing that issue.

Cheap lamps will sometimes do this. LoopAlways buy quality, listed products with LED. Not saying yours are not.

Does the light socket on the ceiling have to be rated for LEDs or just the light switch? I have a second light switch that is not motion detection in the basement, that is on the same circuit as the garage.

 

[seharper]

I replaced the motion sensor switch in the garage with a switch compatible with LED's.

Yup, that'll do it. Everything that applies to LEDs and dimmers, also applies to LEDs and motion sensors, lighted switches, or any sort of powered switch.

One light in the basement has a delay of turning on compared to the other two lights in the room. Not sure what might be causing that issue.

That's just normal with LEDs, some LEDs' power supplies have a short startup delay. Some people consider that a flaw, but it has an advantage: it helps reduce inrush current.

I note one of your pictured LEDs is a Utilitech, so you do have a penchant for the cheap ones. It's hard finding brands that aren't awful, especially since every big box store from Walmart to Costco is "wall to wall" with the worst stuff UL will list as not unsafe. I've had happier luck with GE and IKEA. Heck, my IKEA CFLs from the mid-00s are still working.

 

[joe-nwt]

That's just normal with LEDs, some LEDs' power supplies have a short startup delay. Some people consider that a flaw, but it has an advantage: it helps reduce inrush current.

Really? :smile: Inrush current?:smile: On a LED lamp?:vs_laugh:

 

[seharper]

Really? :smile: Inrush current?:smile: On a LED lamp?:vs_laugh:

You having a problem there, Hoss?

Yeah. If you've ever converted a facility from magnetic/inductive lighting (HID, magnetic ballast fluorescent) to electronic-ballast fluorescent or (obviously) electronically driven LED, you have to re-evaluate current limits on the controls, relays, etc.

With the former, the issue was the inductive kick from a magnetic ballast, so the rating that matters is the HID or inductive rating.

Whereas with the latter, those switching power supplies have capacitors or chokes that want to initially charge up, and that involves inrush current, so the rating that matters is the tungsten rating.

Did you not realize that inrush current is a common characteristic of a switching power supply?

 

[joe-nwt]

You having a problem there, Hoss?

Yeah. If you've ever converted a facility from magnetic/inductive lighting (HID, magnetic ballast fluorescent) to electronic-ballast fluorescent or (obviously) electronically driven LED, you have to re-evaluate current limits on the controls, relays, etc.

With the former, the issue was the inductive kick from a magnetic ballast, so the rating that matters is the HID or inductive rating.

Whereas with the latter, those switching power supplies have capacitors or chokes that want to initially charge up, and that involves inrush current, so the rating that matters is the tungsten rating.

Did you not realize that inrush current is a common characteristic of a switching power supply?

I must have missed the part where the OP converted his "facility" from magnetic/inductive lighting. I hope he doesn't run into problems with his "controls, relays, etc".

My mistake.

 

[Old Thomas]

I have Amazon LED bulbs in my bathroom and one of them flickers sometimes, but not all the time. It is on a simple toggle switch, no fancy controls.

 

[greentrees]

[99=seharper;6244523]

I replaced the motion sensor switch in the garage with a switch compatible with LED's.

Yup, that'll do it. Everything that applies to LEDs and dimmers, also applies to LEDs and motion sensors, lighted switches, or any sort of powered switch.

One light in the basement has a delay of turning on compared to the other two lights in the room. Not sure what might be causing that issue.

That's just normal with LEDs, some LEDs' power supplies have a short startup delay. Some people consider that a flaw, but it has an advantage: it helps reduce inrush current.

I note one of your pictured LEDs is a Utilitech, so you do have a penchant for the cheap ones. It's hard finding brands that aren't awful, especially since every big box store from Walmart to Costco is "wall to wall" with the worst stuff UL will list as not unsafe. I've had happier luck with GE and IKEA. Heck, my IKEA CFLs from the mid-00s are still working.[/QUOTE]

I have Amazon LED bulbs in my bathroom and one of them flickers sometimes, but not all the time. It is on a simple toggle switch, no fancy controls.

I had some better bulbs that were 5k but they burned out maybe due to the motion switch. I'll try them again now that the motion switch is LED compatible. I dont think the switch in my basement needs to be replaced unless they make LED compatible single pole switch.