[Jeaux]

I have an addition that was built probably 13 years ago, it attaches to the side of the house via a ledger board, and runs about 25 feet or so along the home. The issue is, when it was built, that room ended up with metal roofing, and the home has shingles... So the issue starts there, no flashing was ever made to bridge the roughly 2 inch high gap between the two roofs.

What was done how ever was packing it full of roof repair tar. It was the "solution" to water running back, and under the metal roofing, then leaking inside.
I am looking for something temporary at this point as the tar has hardened, and split, and is basically funneling water under the metal.

If anyone needs pictures let me know, and I will will get them.

Thanks for reading.

 

[craig11152]

pictures are a must...a variety please. Several, Close ups, panorama's etc. None of those "what the heck are we looking at" close ups though. :vs_no_no_no:

It helps to know what sort of climate you live in...snow?

 

[joecaption]

Going to need those pictures.
Flashing should have been run up behind the siding or trim and out over the roof about 6".
Any form of caulking is just not going to fix this right.

 

[Jeaux]

I live in middle Georgia not much snow happening here.

I went and got the photos for you, let me know if you need anything other ones.

The first one shows the left most side, it doesn't really leak but I think that has to do with the fact the tar isn't piled up, but I know it isn't right.

The second shows the length mostly, and the the edge where they meet.

The third is where the water pours in, you can see how high the tar is piled up, and it is split. And the "attempt" at fixing old shingles, horribly.

 

[craig11152]

I would custom bend a flashing that comes down over the metal roof 5-6 inches and up and under the shingles about the same. Looks like you might need to replace your shingled roof from the limited pictures I see.

 

[Jeaux]

So something like this, but instead of the metal roof being on top, it would be shingles.

And yes, the roof shingles do need to be replaced.

To put it nicely, I inhereted all of these problems caused by my mothers previous husband, and the house is mine as of the first of the year, and so are the problems.

The reason I asked about something more temporary is because the the sheeting under the metal in the cracked part I showed you is not rotting out, but has rotted out, you can see the metal roof from the inside.

Originally, metal roof was bought for the whole home, but all that was put up was there on that one room that was added on, the rest laid on the ground until it was more rust than paint, and such it is ruined. I have thought about just shingling the whole roof for the cost, versus metal roofing all over.
Any thoughts on this?

The plan is to pull the metal roof, and re-sheet it. But I also have a lot more questions of roofing, such as the joist, the ledger board, and various other things I want to make sure are sound before I do all of this sometime after the first of the year. The water just need to stop, luckily it is a concrete floor underneath, because they had let it go until the carpet on the concrete had quite literally grown mushrooms on it. I have since ripped all of that out, and most of the drywall, but I'd like the room to dry out somewhat and not become a pool when it rains.

Not sure if I should make another thread about all of that, or many separate ones. I don't really have money to pay someone to do the work, so I realize I have a lot of learning to do, and a lot more questions if I want this done right.

I appreciate all the responses so far.

 

[craig11152]

If you just need to buy some time.....buy a 5 gallon can-o-mud and just start mucky puckying the whole thing again right over the existing tar.
Tar is never a long term solution but sure can be a short term solution.

 

[giterrdone]

I have been considering metal roofing for potential the spring. Been doing some research Would you recommend metal ...or how about slate?

 

[craig11152]

I have been considering metal roofing for potential the spring. Been doing some research Would you recommend metal ...or how about slate?

http://www.americancustomcontractors.com/blog/storm-roofing-options/

I'm not much of an expert on either but slate weighs a lot. In either case you need a contractor with a lot of experience in the specific product. Get a list of references and actually call them...call a bunch. If anyone can't or won't give you a bunch of references scratch them from your list.

 

[Ron6519]

As Craig stated, a slate roof needs to be designed from the framing up. It's also very expensive to have installed.

 

[ryansdiydad]

Not sure I saw this anywhere.. What is the pitch of the metal roof? The roof pitch will direct you to what your options are...

 

[Ron6519]

If you just need to buy some time.....buy a 5 gallon can-o-mud and just start mucky puckying the whole thing again right over the existing tar.
Tar is never a long term solution but sure can be a short term solution.

I don't think slathering tar a the roof is a solution. It may mask the issue, but at some point you're going to have to remove this mass and do the repair correctly.
Why not do it correctly the first time?

 

[craig11152]

I don't think slathering tar a the roof is a solution. It may mask the issue, but at some point you're going to have to remove this mass and do the repair correctly.
Why not do it correctly the first time?

Because the OP wanted to buy some time. In his exact words "I am looking for something temporary at this point".
Because the "repair" is probably an entire new shingled roof above the metal based on the limited pictures of a shingled roof in serious decline.
Looking at the pictures he provided what temporary "solution" would you suggest?
To me if somebody needs something temporary its a stopgap that hopefully works for some (brief) period of time at minimal cost. I see tar as fitting that nitch
What would you suggest for a temporary fix?

As a sidebar a tarp isn't a permanent solution either but I tarped a couple houses in my time that bought people weeks, in one case an entire winter because the "correct repair", a whole new roof wasn't convenient for them at the moment.

 

[craig11152]

I would certainly agree tar is not a long term solution to a problem but I stand by my belief it often can be a short term solution that is both inexpensive and very user friendly.

 

[rossfingal]

As suggested above -
"Tar" - lots of it!
Or - find someone who knows how to fix roofs!
"Tar"!!

Happy Holidays!

 

[Yodaman]

I would certainly agree tar is not a long term solution to a problem but I stand by my belief it often can be a short term solution that is both inexpensive and very user friendly.

I agree. I once got 5 extra years from a leaking roof that I patched a few times with roof tar. Probably used 5 gallons over those 5 years. It was a 2 story, 100 year old victorian. With 20 square pitched at 8/12, and 2 more flat. The real prize was 3 layers of crumbling asphalt sitting on a layer of cedar. Took a few years years to get motivated to tackle that one!
The tar did buy me some time until the timing and resources were available.

 

[PatChap]

+1 on the bucket. Dump a few kilos of goop in there, toss some fabric in and add some more goop.
Buy yourself some time.

 

[ShyGuy]

I would custom bend a flashing that comes down over the metal roof 5-6 inches and up and under the shingles about the same. Looks like you might need to replace your shingled roof from the limited pictures I see.

If one was to do this and the shingles were good, could the flashing be slid up the existing shingles or will the shingles need to be replaced regardless?

 

[PatChap]

If one was to do this and the shingles were good, could the flashing be slid up the existing shingles or will the shingles need to be replaced regardless?

If you were very careful you could pull the nails in the way without destroying the shingles. Sometimes they still rip no matter how careful you are.

 

[ShyGuy]

If you were very careful you could pull the nails in the way without destroying the shingles. Sometimes they still rip no matter how careful you are.

Ok, so what your saying is pretty much the shingles will need to be removed in order to do the job properly.