[jomillington]

Although the attached image is not my project, the porch overhang is what I would like for my shed. I am in the planning stage of the shed but cannot figure out how to properly flash and roof at the corner of the overhang that sticks out past the side wall. ( Note: The picture shows the flashing incorrectly over the wall water barrier, but this was the best picture I could find to represent my project. )

 

[Windows on Wash]

Just more metal. Use the same color as the apron flashing and make a cap.

 

[jomillington]

I will need a little more information than that, i.e. end the head flashing at the wall corner ( I assume ) then what does the cap look like and were does it go ? The back side of the overhang fascia also needs to be flashed since it is on an upward angle - not sure how to tie all this together without a potential leak at that corner.

 

[Windows on Wash]

Post up some pictures and I can sketch it up

 

[jomillington]

I'm not sure what type of pictures you are looking for ? The picture I posted represents the porch and roof overhang that extends out past the side wall that I would like to incorporate into my shed plan.

 

[craig11152]

Back in the summer of 1979 when I first began a 29 year roofing career an early mentor once told me to "think like a rain drop". Simple yet really pretty profound.
That rain drop that falls from the sky wants to go to the ocean. To do that it wants to flow downhill. As a roofer I want to facilitate that while keeping that rain drop exposed to the great outdoors. So anything I do needs to be done in a fashion that doesn't redirect that water underneath my roofing product.

 

[Windows on Wash]

 

[jomillington]

The attached picture shows the detail for the top section of a lean-to style roof - I would assume that this same information would apply to the corner back of the porch roof that extends out from the side wall.

 

[craig11152]

If it was me I would just do the thick blue line, in aluminum. I think the rest is overkill for 8"-12" on a residential porch.

 

[Windows on Wash]

If it was me I would just do the thick blue line, in aluminum. I think the rest is overkill for 8"-12" on a residential porch.

Agreed.

Just the first picture I found.

 

[jomillington]

Windows on Wash - did you post the ridge diagram at 5:36 p.m. ? In my following response, I submitted that image, not sure why it is showing up under your post ?
Still looking for an answer on how to tie that ridge information to the headwall flashing without have a potential leak in that corner. All I can fantom is a very custom soldered piece.

 

[Windows on Wash]

No need to solder. Just lap the ridge and apron flashing and you can put a kick out on that corner of the siding. Who is doing the roof?

Google gutter or sidewall kick out flashing.

 

[craig11152]

depending on how that corner ties together it could even take a step flash.

 

[PatChap]

A custom soldered piece would probably be overkill, but if the piece of mind is worth the expense to you, go for it.

I have reroofed many where the shingles just overhung the end of the roof.

 

[ChuckF.]

You could also build a small extension back there, same pitch as the front but going down, about a foot or so. Not so long that it needs much support obviously. Shingle it, cap it, flash it to the side, put a fascia on it, and a drip edge. An extension would look good from the side, giving it a finished look.

 

[jomillington]

View attachment 238410

View attachment 238418

Attached are drawings of what the building will look like and the headwall detail.
I will be doing the roofing. I have simplified the Porch Roof by eliminating the overhang.

So, let's take this step by step...........

Looking at the headwall_2.pdf file:
1. Roof Sheathing will end flush with the siding.
NOTE: The left side of the Building/Porch will have siding. The right side
will not - the sheathing will end at the rafter.
( The building.pdf file shows the side views )
Eave drip edge, roofing felt, rake drip edge and shingles will be applied
in that order. NOTE: roofing felt will run up the headwall the entire width
of the sheathing - 2" up the wall should be sufficient, since the front wall
siding requires a 1" space between siding bottom and roof deck.
( I could NOT show the roofing felt detail in the headwall_2.pdf file )

2. The headwall/apron flashing ( 5" up / 5" over shingles ) will run the length
of the sheathing, as illustrated by the dotted lines in the headwall_2.pdf file.
( To keep simple, we will not go into all the additional details of the actual
headwall/apron flashing installation.)

3. The headwall water barrier ( tyvek ) material will then be placed over the
headwall/apron flashing. And of course, the remainder of the building.

4. The side wall siding will then be attached ( salmon colored rectangle ).

5. The front wall ( headwall ) siding will be attached 1" above the roof deck
and side wall siding.

6. The side wall vertical trim will then be attached ( yellow colored rectangle ).

7. The front wall ( headwall ) vertical trim will be attached - AGAIN - 1" above
the roof deck.

In the headwall_2.pdf file the "Arrows" point to the PROBLEM area on each side of the building because the roof just butts up against the side wall siding and trim. The size of the area would be approx. 1" H x 3/4" W ( W = sidewall siding & trim )

The only thing I can think to do here is to apply a sealant/caulk over that entire ( 1" x 3/4" ) area and the roof/siding&trim butt joint. What would be the best sealant ?

Chuck - I did like your idea - but thought just eliminating an overhang entirely
would simplify things. Any corner in that area, I think, is just asking
for trouble and a potential leak.

I did the best I could with the drawings - no expertise here.

 

[jomillington]

The link for my uploaded PDF attachments is not working - I have emailed the administrator.

 

[jomillington]

I was able to upload the PDF files to my Album - click on the PDF Files folder - both files are there.