fixing the walls...

1659 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by 7echo, Apr 22, 2009

7echo

Discussion Starter · Apr 15, 2009

Repainting a room as part of a remodel. This room is small, about 11' x 12'. The walls are in bad shape-lots of little nicks, dings, bad drips from the previous paint job(not me!). The walls are almost what I would call a texture finish, maybe they used a 3/4" nap, it is very bumply. So, I sanded the walls down with 100 grit(used a random orbit attached to the shop vac, nearly no dust) and am touching up the dings and dents with mud. Problem is, all the touched up spots will be smooth, the rest still has some texture. I want a consistent finish. So, how do I handle all the recently repaired smooth parts? Hit those areas with some primer on a thicker roller first, then do 2 top coats?

Comments are appreciated!

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1 - 9 of 9 Posts

hellothere123

· #2 · Apr 19, 2009

If you consider all the time repairing and patching and sanding the wall...what about just replacing the drywall?

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7echo

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 19, 2009

I considered that, but the cost was better to just work on the existing walls.

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Matthewt1970

· #4 · Apr 19, 2009

When walls get to that point, we sometimes use a 1 part joint compound, 2-3 parts paint mix. It's tricky to apply, especially the cutting-in, but it will give you nice uniform finsh. You can also try a skim coat of joint compound on the walls.

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sirwired

· #5 · Apr 19, 2009

I have been able to "beef up" the stipple on smooth patches in the past by rolling with a nice, thick, stain blocking primer (SW Prep Rite ProBlock Latex) before topcoating. I think your plan to use a 3/4" nap roller might be a bit much. Start with a 3/8" or 1/2" and see how it goes.

SirWired

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BMDealer

· #6 · Apr 21, 2009

Couple of options....USG Tuff-Hide which is a sprayed on primer/mud finish. Very similar to skim coating. Other option would be BM SuperSpec 270-00 Hi-Build primer. This product is designed for solving minor wall imperfections.

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sirwired

· #7 · Apr 21, 2009

I think a high-build primer is overkill just to simulate roller stipple. A thick stain-blocking primer has worked great for me.

SirWired

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BMDealer

· #8 · Apr 21, 2009

The hi-build is not designed to simulate roller stipple is design to fill voids and level off minor defects in tape joints. The product is self leveling and shouldn't give you any orange peel that is if a low nap roller cover is used.

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7echo

Discussion Starter · #9 · Apr 22, 2009

Thanks for the comments!

What about something like Zinsser 123 primer? Would that be a good option? I have several gallons.

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