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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

So we recently had to demo and rebuild over half the base cabinets in our kitchen due to the fallout of a rat infestation. We had to dispose of the dishwasher and we just got the delivery for the new one today. Some parts of the area where the old dishwasher was weren't rebuilt however, as that wasn't the full 'scope' of the main cabinets. I wish I would have just asked them to replace the section(s) that were rotted out while they were doing the other stuff but didn't really realize it then.

Anyway, this is the area in question:
Brown Wood Rectangle Composite material Tints and shades


The bottom of that pic where there's a small gap, there was a small rectangular piece of particleboard/MDF + veneer and quarter-round.
Wood Waste container Wood stain Rectangle Gas


Brown Wood House Flooring Floor

BTW: that strip of wood that's leaning/sitting 'diagonally' across is just a loose piece - I'm guessing it was intended to be some sort of support beam that was installed but I'm not sure it was doing much of anything considering it was loose and not really secured to anything. Not sure if I need to reattach this or another piece of fresh wood to act as an additional brace here. This configuration is such that the dishwasher was setup on the end with no cabinets on the other side of it

Sorry I don't have any better pics than this - I should have taken some of the work area before I began pulling it all out.


Anyway, I was also considering pulling out that bottom strip of wood that's nailed it because the front edge of it is kind of rotted as you can see in the pic. I'm pretty sure it was the rats that had chewed at that. It is likely saturated with pee and what not. Anyway, I'm hesitant to do this because I'm assuming if I replace it I would want to nail the new strip of wood in place. And I don't know if I would also need to apply some sort of finish or seal to the wood either.

I was planning to cut a small piece of rectangle from a 1x6 to fit back into the 'slot' where the rotted MDF. I guess I should get some veneer too but not sure which - that stuff seems expensive too.

I don't have a nail gun, stapler or any of that stuff. Would I be able to get away with just gluing or caulking the pieces of wood back in place? Should I not remove that bottom strip that's currently nailed in place?
 

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retired framer
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It looks like a 2x4 Under the counter, we need more picture.
I think you have an elephant in the room and we have a picture of his toe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry the 2x4s under the counter was from when the cabinets were getting rebuilt. Those are no longer there. I'll try to get more pics soon.... Got the vaccine booster yesterday night and I literally started feeling the aftereffects in the past couple hours :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Alright, I managed to get several more pics:

Wood Flooring Floor Building material Composite material

Brown Wood Table Floor Flooring

Brown Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring


Here's what it kind of looked like before I removed the small square/rectangular piece (I guess a very short section of toekick - I just put the piece back in from where I pulled it):
Wood Wood stain Floor Hardwood Gas
 

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retired framer
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Alright, I managed to get several more pics:


Here's what it kind of looked like before I removed the small square/rectangular piece (I guess a very short section of toekick - I just put the piece back in from where I pulled it):
Have you room to put a 2x2, 2x3 or 2x4 here ?
Wood Amber Rectangle Gas Bumper
 

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retired framer
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That may work. How would I secure it?
I would pre drill it for screws that reach into but not thru the end plywood, I would glue it because the screws will have limited pull.
Or just glue it and wedge it in place, then you could put some finish nails in from the outside.
Rectangle Wood Composite material Parallel Tints and shades
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would pre drill it for screws that reach into but not thru the end plywood, I would glue it because the screws will have limited pull.
Or just glue it and wedge it in place, then you could put some finish nails in from the outside.
View attachment 673660
I see... What would the wedges look like? Finishing nails sound cleaner. Perhaps with a couple screws on the inside for extra support. Should I just use titebond? And as for wood I've seen ppl saying only to use pressure treated wood. I have no idea whether or not the scraps I have are pressure treated
 

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retired framer
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I see... What would the wedges look like? Finishing nails sound cleaner. Perhaps with a couple screws on the inside for extra support. Should I just use titebond? And as for wood I've seen ppl saying only to use pressure treated wood. I have no idea whether or not the scraps I have are pressure treated
Just use scraps, and wood glue, wedges cut a little long to reach the others side and angle them in
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
So for the main 2x4 that I'm attaching to the side, I'll probably will want either 1-3/4" or 2" wood screws to secure from the inside to the veneer. And maybe the same thing when securing the piece of 1x6 (that I cut down to fit into the slot) to the end of the 2x4. Would trim screws be OK to use for reattaching the quarter-round or even for adding some extra strength or support to the 2x4 from the outside? In addition to this, use Titebond for to add some additional strength/bond. I'm wondering how difficult it's going to be to remove the strip of wood that's nailed to the cement though. I don't want to damage the veneer on the side. Or should I just lay the 2x4 on top of that piece? If I do that, it'll overhang that bottom strip of wood by about 1/4" or so...

As far as veneer trim that is going to go in front of the piece cut from the 1x6 (I think this may only be like 3-4" x 3-4" approx), what is the best thing to use? Should I go to Hobby Lobby or Michaels to look for something like balsa wood?



I think 1/4" might be too thick. I think this might be like 1/8" paneling - maybe something like this? Craft Plywood - 1/8" x 12" x 24" | Hobby Lobby | 117853

I'm not sure if it'll match the rest of the toe kick in the kitchen but I don't think it'll matter much. We're planning to paint the cabinets white eventually anyway, so it's not like I need perfectly matching wood or anything.
 

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retired framer
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Leave the piece on the floor just add the 2x4 above that.
Then what ever works in the toe kick to make it look good and paint grade is better.
The kick is often painted black with white cupboards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Leave the piece on the floor just add the 2x4 above that.
Then what ever works in the toe kick to make it look good and paint grade is better.
The kick is often painted black with white cupboards.
Ah ok. Will give it a go. I figure there's no real need even for a veneer/panel over the small piece in the front. Just nail the quarter round directly to the piece of wood. Unless I just glue it there since I don't have a finishing hammer, nails, nailgun etc...
 

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retired framer
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Ah ok. Will give it a go. I figure there's no real need even for a veneer/panel over the small piece in the front. Just nail the quarter round directly to the piece of wood. Unless I just glue it there since I don't have a finishing hammer, nails, nailgun etc...
You will want finish nails, just glue would not be enough.
 

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retired framer
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What length should I pickup - 2"?

I have a set of punches - will that work to countersink them?
1 1/2" would be good, a nail set has a flat end so depending on the punch you have but you can use the head of another nail for that too.
 
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