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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently added two recessed lights in the kitchen and ran them for their own switch. I had to expand my wire box from double to triple, but my problem is hooking back up the other two switches. Before I started removing switches I should have labeled but I did not (which is my idiot mistake). I have one supply and two out going lines. One of the out going lines is the added line. I can not remember how to hook up the other two light switches that operate two existing lights. I have tried hooking them up but only can get one light to work and the other shows power to it, but does not work. I even replaced the bulb thinking it might have blown. Help please!
 

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I recently added two recessed lights in the kitchen and ran them for their own switch. I had to expand my wire box from double to triple, but my problem is hooking back up the other two switches. Before I started removing switches I should have labeled but I did not (which is my idiot mistake). I have one supply and two out going lines. One of the out going lines is the added line. I can not remember how to hook up the other two light switches that operate two existing lights. I have tried hooking them up but only can get one light to work and the other shows power to it, but does not work. I even replaced the bulb thinking it might have blown. Help please!

Why was the existing box a double ?
Did it control one light or two ?
What did it control ?

Tell us more about the amount of wires ? and there colors ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Drawing of Wire box!

Diagram Line Parallel


joed and danpik hope this helps for any help that you can give.

dmxtothemax - I don't know why it was a double. It was like that when we bought the house. Each switch controlled a separate light.

I know the Grounds are wire nutted together.
 

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Did the original two switch each control a separate fixture? If so, your drawing is not correct. You would either be missing a wire, or someone illegally used the uninsulated ground as a neutral and it cannot be put back that way.

If not, fixing this should be easy.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
k_buz - The original two switches controlled separate fixtures! I'm not missing a wire and my drawing is correct to what I see in the box. I don't remember unhooking a uninsulated ground from any of the side terminals.

I thought they split the hot to go to the bottom of one terminal (A) and to the top of another (B). Then used the black out going on the top terminal (A) and the white outgoing on the bottom (B), which did not work.

I hope I'm just over looking something.
 

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Unless there is a different neutral at the fixtures (which is still illegal) they would have had to use the uninsulated ground as the neutral. Do you remember any bare wires connected to a white wire?

The other option, that I didn't think about at first, is that they hooked the bare ground up to the neutral at the fixture. If this is the case, its a very dangerous situation. You could have current running on any grounded metal connected to that circuit.

You are going to need to pull the existing fixtures down to determine how they are wired.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don't believe any uninsulated grounds where connected to a neutral. It would not surprise me if this was an illegal setup cause I have found some very odd cob jobs through out this house.

Let me ask you this, is it illegal to use an orange electrical cord with its ends cut off to connect a light from a junction box?
 

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Sorry, we're having a very difficult time understanding your schematics. It cannot make logic sense. If your you have three wires coming into the 3 gang box, one of which is the hot (supply), one which you installed going to your recessed lights, and the last one was originally there? Is it at all possible when you replaced the 2 gang with the 3 gang, you forgot or left out a wire? Reason being, is that minus your wire you ran to the recessed, that only leaves you with two wires. One supply, and one delivery, two lights, on two separate switches, cannot be both wired from one wire, unless its 3 conductor like 14/3?
 

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I don't believe any uninsulated grounds where connected to a neutral. It would not surprise me if this was an illegal setup cause I have found some very odd cob jobs through out this house.

Let me ask you this, is it illegal to use an orange electrical cord with its ends cut off to connect a light from a junction box?
Not even close.
 

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Do the new lights you just installed work properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Do the new lights you just installed work properly?
Yes my new lights that I installed work perfect. I can even get one of the two other lights to work, but am having trouble figuring out why this other light won't work. After getting one of them to work I used a Non-Contact Voltage Tester on the other and it shows that I'm getting power, but still nothing. Even tried changing the bulb!
 

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If you are referring to the Orange Extension Cord that I mentioned then I found this when I was running my new line to the new lights.

Replace it at all cost! not worth the chance of knowing that the individual who used it has no clue! and if it is in a wall or ceiling, thats a big no no! As you will read on most if not all extension cords, they are clearly marked "for temporary use only"
 

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Yes my new lights that I installed work perfect. I can even get one of the two other lights to work, but am having trouble figuring out why this other light won't work. After getting one of them to work I used a Non-Contact Voltage Tester on the other and it shows that I'm getting power, but still nothing. Even tried changing the bulb!

Your NCV tester is prone to pick up what we sometimes refer to as "bleeding" from another source wire. They are not fool proof and can be misleading, most especially when multiple wires are run close together, or in a box. Don't rely entirely on it.
 

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I'm guessing you are missing a neutral at that second fixture. I have no idea how this was originally wired as you cannot (legally get two switch legs out of a cable consisting of only 2 insulated conductors.

The only choices I can give you are:
1) run a new cable to the fixture that doesn't work
2) call an electrician to troubleshoot the problem

I highly suggest #2 because he can tell you if he sees any other dangerous violations. It sounds as you have some really jacked up stuff going on in there and they could possibly be a danger to your property or person.
 

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I highly suggest #2 because he can tell you if he sees any other dangerous violations. It sounds as you have some really jacked up stuff going on in there and they could possibly be a danger to your property or person.

Absolutley agree, trying to do something on your own, is notable, saving your life is worth every penny spent. You must have to wonder, what other kind of half ass work did the former owner do? I'd have a difficult time sleeping at night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
After seeing that Extension cord being used, I knew it was illegal and was going to replace it anyways. I know NCV tester is not totally reliable, but it did help. When there was no power going to the light, I got no beeping on the tester. I just use it for a quick test or double check there is no power. Thanks for the Help everyone. I'm going to run a new line for now and get a Licensed Electrician in here when I can afford one.
 
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