[DesertHawk]

I want to install a tankless water heater in my house, so I'm practicing soldering copper on some scrap pieces. I may have to reroute copper water lines in the crawlspace to the heater location on an outside wall, so I want to make sure I get this right before making trouble.
I used a mini butane torch from Harbor Freight to heat up the copper. Once the flux started sizzling, I was able to apply the solder. I used about 1/2 inch of solder. I made sure to use a tiny coupler so I could see how well I did inside the pipe. There's a thin ring of solder inside. Not too much inside (see the pics).
Any help or tips would be appreciated!

 

[JLawrence08648]

Too much solder, too much heat, clean clean clean, flux flux flux, wipe off the joint with a rag, try soldering going up.

 

[SPS-1]

Looks like the proper amount of solder to me, but I am just a DIYer.
The discoloration does rather look like the heat may have been too high. Its normal for it to take a while for the pipes to heat up.

 

[spitz1234]

Looks ok to me. Clean it when it's still hot. It's best practice to deburr the inside of the pipe.

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[roughneck]

Too much heat. Don’t wait till the flux is visibly hot, get the solder on the pipe. It doesn’t take much heat and isn’t going to take long to warm up.
Let the fitting take most of the heat so the solder gets drawn into the joint.

 

[Old Thomas]

The only time I solder any more is to install a copper to PEX fitting.

 

[SPS-1]

Don't forget to de-burr the copper pipe after cutting. The burr on the end of the pipe can produce a local turbulent flow that can eventually wear a hole in the fitting.

 

[TarheelTerp]

...so I'm practicing soldering copper
Any help or tips would be appreciated!

Find a tutor.

 

[rjniles]

Too much heat. Get a regular propane torch and use MAPP gas.

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[Bondo]

I used a mini butane torch from Harbor Freight

Ayuh,..... This is part of yer problem,......

Get a real plumbers propane torch,....

Ya don't want a pin point flame, like those mini-torches,.....

 

[bfrabel]

One tip that I like to tell people is to concentrate most of your heat on the pipe, rather than the fitting. And as others have said, a larger torch would be better than a small pin point flame.

Not bad for a first try though. It looks like a solid joint to me.

 

[ktownskier]

Find a tutor.

He is, he is asking us for help.

Sometimes it is hard to find someone who knows how to sweat copper.

Do you know anyone in your neighborhood who knows how to do it?

Other than myself, I don't. And I only do it when I can't run PEX.

@DesertHawk

Consider using PEX. And make sure to use Tankless water heater service valves. They allow you to isolate the Tankless unit from the domestic water supply so that you can service the tankless unit. Plus, it has a Union built in for easy connections.

And remember that most Tankless units don't use TPR's. They just need Pressure Relief valves as they have built in Temperature overload protection.

 

[TarheelTerp]

Sometimes it is hard to find someone who knows how to sweat copper.
Do you know anyone in your neighborhood who knows how to do it?

Yes. Probably 6.
And another 12 where I lived 40+ years ago when I asked for help.
I bet your neighborhood has some as well. Really.

Beware though... it might cost you in Pizza and Beer.
But they'll have a proper torch to practice with.
When the opportunity to learn how to thread and fit pipe comes? Same.

 

[DesertHawk]

Thanks for all the great replies! I think I'll pick up at least a proper propane torch and have another go with something that heats the pipe more evenly (as opposed to the small butane torch's flame). I'll post my progress once I have a chance to try again.

 

[ront02769]

So we have ONe recommendation to let the fitting take the heat......along with a second that says to let the pipe take the heat. So do we vote?

 

[DesertHawk]

So we have ONe recommendation to let the fitting take the heat......along with a second that says to let the pipe take the heat. So do we vote?

When I did my test, I heated mainly the pipe. I learned from attaching CPU coolers that even the slightest gap between parts will severely limit the conduction of heat. So, I chose to heat the pipe first, then hit the fitting with some extra heat once the pipe was hot.

 

[SPS-1]

So we have ONe recommendation to let the fitting take the heat......along with a second that says to let the pipe take the heat. So do we vote?

Put the heat on the item that will take longer to heat up (the bigger item). In the OP's practice pieces, that would be the pipe. If soldering to a shut-off valve, it would be the valve.

 

[DesertHawk]

Put the heat on the item that will take longer to heat up (the bigger item). In the OP's practice pieces, that would be the pipe. If soldering to a shut-off valve, it would be the valve.

That's a great point. The larger the object, the more it may actually act as a heatsink, drawing heat away from the point at which you want the most heat. The smaller parts shouldn't require nearly as much heat to get up to temp. Sound reasonable?

 

[TheEplumber]

Here's some comments I always have to make to apprentices-

Clean your fittings with a fitting brush, clean your pipe with sand cloth

Reem your pipe

Go easy on the flux. No more than a film on the pipe and fitting are needed. Any more is a waste and makes your joint look bad

Recommend a handheld mapp gas torch https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-...keywords=Mapp+Gas+Torch&qid=1583977400&sr=8-3 for 1/2", 3/4" and 1" pipe

Heat the fitting first. Flux and solder flow to the heat, which should be in the fitting cup, not down the side of the pipe
Solder follows flux. So if the flux flowed out onto the pipe, so will the solder- like your picture....

Go slow with the heat. No need to rush. Heat evenly around the fitting, especially the crotch. Then move out to the pipe momentarily to equalize the temps. Then move the torch to the opposite side of where you apply solder. This is a fast process on small fittings.

Usually solder takes as flux stops bubbling. Quickly dab off excess flux as you heat. Some brands will leave stains if overheated. And solder will travel to where flux has been.

wipe your joint for aesthetics. If you wipe before it cools there is a chance of a leak. Briefly reheat and allow the solder to solidify before wiping with a damp clothe.

Avoid rags with high nylon content- It looks ugly when melted onto a hot fitting......

Do not allow solder to drip into the torch tip. It will ruin your flame pattern... Don't ask how I know this

Any solder outside the fitting is pointless and serves no purpose but to be seen and hopefully admired as a quality job....

If all else fails, try pressfit :vs_cool:

 

[JLawrence08648]

I've used MAPP, Propane, and Acetylene from a B tank. By far the Acetylene B tank gives the fastest and best and best looking solder joints. Though acetylene is a hotter gas, the flame is softer plus the regulator is adjustable and can tone things down. The MAPP is like a blow torch, I don't like it. I go with my B tank all the time. I like the lightness of the torch without the bottle attached, the mobility, the advantage of getting in tighter spots, being able to move around with the hose.