DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm a few weeks out from my first tile project. We're adding 6" x 36" porcelain tile to our basement's concrete slab.

I'm planning on a decoupling membrane, even though our house is 15 years old and likely settled.

So here goes:

1) which decoupling membrane? I'm guessing Ditra is the best (although pricey!)

2) with large format tile, is a T-lock type of system necessary? Or just a waste?

3) when pressing in tile, how much force do you use?

4) when it comes to cuts, do you all just dry fit first, make your cuts at once, then lay the tile? Or do you cut as you go?

5) I have ordered two pallets of tile from the same lot number: I know you're supposed to mix boxes to help with consistency, but how would you mix a huge order like this? Open a few boxes from each pallet?

That's it for now. I'll reply back when it's time for the wall tile....
 

· Banned
Joined
·
30,077 Posts
I am sure the pros will come in a provide far greater information, but based on my personal experiences, here is how I would answer your questions:

1. There are several. I think you might find that while Schluter comes at a slight premium, is probably close to what others are running.

2. Never used them. Leveling tiles can be tough when they are large but patience is proper application of thinset to account for floor discrepancies are far more critical.

3. You will see what is a proper level. Depends on the stiffness of your thinset at the end of the day. Be sure that you are back buttering your tiles when they are this large for good adhesion.

4. I cut as I go. Especially when we are talking about large tiles.

5. That is just as easy a way to mix them up as any.

Post up pics as it happens.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13,669 Posts
Before you begin, you need to check how flat the floor is, and if it needs to be leveled. Especially with large tiles, a flat floor is essential. Check the archives here, there are plenty of threads about how to use self-leveling compound (SLC)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The floor is relatively level. So I think I'm okay there.

Does that mean the tile leveling systems are not needed? Or do they prevent dipped edges?


And what about cabinets: would you tile right up to the cabinet? Or lay the floor and then install cabinets?
 

· Tileguy
Joined
·
6,054 Posts
The floor is relatively level.
That isn't telling you anything. The floor needs to be very flat. Use a long straight edge. You want within ⅛" in 10 ft. and 1/16" in 24" of plane.

I used Ditra most of the time, but I'm not sure I'd go that way in a large area over old concrete. You might also consider uncoupling mortar. Tell us more about this floor, size, shape, rooms?

Jaz
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top