[JA Boomer]

So I've finally finished drywalling the garage. Time to mud and tape...yikes.

A few questions come to mind:

1) Any general tips to mudding and taping?

2) My ceiling drywall has no "backing" at the edges of two of the walls. I'm worried I'm going to lift the ceiling drywall up off the wall drywall and mud will slide in the space and then I'll have a real problem. Any tips for this particular application?

3) Some of the stores have drywall mud specified by different colours. What do these colours mean and where do you use each type?

4) Do you typically mud the gaps between the electrical boxes and the drywall?

Thanks!

Boomer

 

[Colbyt]

Most first timers glob it on way to thick and have to sand like crazy. Don't expect to finish in in 3 coats like the sites say. It is a lot easier to to do 5 coats than it is to sand.

Fill all voids and allow it to dry before you start taping.

3. buy all purpose in the bucket and thin it a bit for all coats after # 1.

4. I actually do though most pros don't.

 

[mako1]

What thickness of drywall did you use on the ceiling?Should have been 5/8". Any large gaps should be prefilled before taping. Just fill the gaps level with the drywall.Don't overfill.I use a setting compound for this .(Durabond )
Green lid is general purpose and has more glue in it .It should be used for bedding the tape. (Paper Tape) And the second coat.Blue lid should be used for the slick coat and is easier to sand.

 

[JA Boomer]

What thickness of drywall did you use on the ceiling?Should have been 5/8". Any large gaps should be prefilled before taping. Just fill the gaps level with the drywall.Don't overfill.I use a setting compound for this .(Durabond )
Green lid is general purpose and has more glue in it .It should be used for bedding the tape. (Paper Tape) And the second coat.Blue lid should be used for the slick coat and is easier to sand.

Thanks. Yes, it's all 5/8" Type-X.

 

[JA Boomer]

Is it best to clean the drywall before mudding and taping, or do you only have to give it a wipe down before priming?

 

[ToolSeeker]

The different color drywall is green is moisture resistant (not waterproof) blue is for plaster, purple is mold resistant.

 

[JA Boomer]

The different color drywall is green is moisture resistant (not waterproof) blue is for plaster, purple is mold resistant.

Yes, but I was asking about the different colours of drywall compound not drywall.

Does anybody wet their tape before applying to seams?

 

[ToolSeeker]

Sorry. I assume you mean the different color buckets. Some are just different companies, some have different purposes, which colors are you referring to?

Yes I have if you wet the tape you will eliminate any bubbles under the tape.

 

[ddawg16]

All those lid colors they talk about? I don't get those here in California, at least not at HD.


1) Any general tips to mudding and taping?
Lots of YouTube videos to watch. My advice, don't be in a hurry. If you use the pre-mixed stuff, expect a day for drying. As mentioned above, don't put it on too thick. For the first coat with tape, you get better adhesion if you add a little water to the mud. Makes it easier to embed the tape. I run a bead of mud first, then tape on top...then another coat of mud over that.

2) My ceiling drywall has no "backing" at the edges of two of the walls. I'm worried I'm going to lift the ceiling drywall up off the wall drywall and mud will slide in the space and then I'll have a real problem. Any tips for this particular application?
As mentioned above, fill the gap and then put up your tape. Too late now to worry about it. In reality, your ceiling drywall is sitting on top of the sides, so it's not really going to go anywhere. If there is movement, it's going to be sideways.

3) Some of the stores have drywall mud specified by different colours. What do these colours mean and where do you use each type?
That was explained above. For me, I used the dry mix. I can get 20 min, 45 min and 90 min. For the second and remaining coats I used 90 min mud. I got real good at using a small paint mixer to mix it right up in my trowel tray. The 90 min stuff meant I could make a pass around the room....go have a beer....take a break, then go make another pass


4) Do you typically mud the gaps between the electrical boxes and the drywall?
Well, if you cut the drywall perfectly like I do, you have no gap. If you are human like I am, you have gaps. Unless you are worried about air leaking, don't worry about it. If you want a light seal, then get some spray foam....fill in the gaps that way....just don't get carried away...the stuff expands.

 

[JA Boomer]

My advice

Thanks ddawg16!

Sorry. I assume you mean the different color buckets. Some are just different companies, some have different purposes, which colors are you referring to?

Yes, basically I see my local box stores are selling Synko drywall compound that comes in red, blue, green, and yellow boxes.

My current plan is to fill large holes with setting compound, tape with the taping compound, one or two layers of all purpose, and finish with the topping compound.

Synko makes a 'Lite' product line, not sure what this is about.

Does anyone clean the drywall prior to mudding?

 

[mako1]

I always set tape with setting compound.Actually I do everything with setting compound except the slick coat.I use the blue lid topping for that.With the setting compound I can prefill,set the tape and put another coat on the same day.
I am getting paid for this so it makes a huge difference to me.

 

[tjfslaughter]

I usually tape in 2-3 sessions. I do tape abutting seams at the same time, i let one tape try then do the next. When you look at a corner you have the left ceiling seam, right ceiling seam, and the corner. That is three different days for me.

You don't have to clean the drywall but you want it dust free to keep your spackle clean.

Also get a hawk and when you clean your knife don't get the drying spackle mixed in to your fresh mud.

Only put enough spackle on the hawk you plan on using. Never put mud from your hawk back in the bucket.

Also keep the sides of the bucket clean so it doesn't dry and get crap in your mud.

 

[JA Boomer]

I usually tape in 2-3 sessions. I do tape abutting seams at the same time, i let one tape try then do the next. When you look at a corner you have the left ceiling seam, right ceiling seam, and the corner. That is three different days for me.

You don't have to clean the drywall but you want it dust free to keep your spackle clean.

Also get a hawk and when you clean your knife don't get the drying spackle mixed in to your fresh mud.

Only put enough spackle on the hawk you plan on using. Never put mud from your hawk back in the bucket.

Also keep the sides of the bucket clean so it doesn't dry and get crap in your mud.

Good tips!

Some other tips I have picked up from the internet are:

1) Cut a shallow divot with a utility knife in your butt seams. This is so you remove the paper face that can be uneven and upturned and poke into the tape. He recommended filling this divot with setting compound but I think I'll just fill it when I to my first pass with taping compound.

2) Wet the tape before embedding for best results.

3) Tape both sides of the corner bead where it transitions back to the drywall to ensure you won't have cracking.

Two more questions:

Is it okay to use spray adhesive for the corner bead instead of screwing them on with drywall screws?

Is there any problem with doing your first pass embedding the tape. Then leaving it for a day and mudding over top of the tape the next day?

 

[tjfslaughter]

Two more questions:

Is it okay to use spray adhesive for the corner bead instead of screwing them on with drywall screws?

Is there any problem with doing your first pass embedding the tape. Then leaving it for a day and mudding over top of the tape the next day?

I run my first pass with mud and embed the tape.


Go to a GOOD supply house for corner beads (NOT HOME CHEAPO or the likes). Get your self some nice metal corner beads and some 1' 5/8 sheetrock nails and nail the cornerbeads in. Gluing them up is half a$$ work.

 

[mako1]

Good tips!

Some other tips I have picked up from the internet are:

1) Cut a shallow divot with a utility knife in your butt seams. This is so you remove the paper face that can be uneven and upturned and poke into the tape. He recommended filling this divot with setting compound but I think I'll just fill it when I to my first pass with taping compound.

2) Wet the tape before embedding for best results.

3) Tape both sides of the corner bead where it transitions back to the drywall to ensure you won't have cracking.

Two more questions:

Is it okay to use spray adhesive for the corner bead instead of screwing them on with drywall screws?

Is there any problem with doing your first pass embedding the tape. Then leaving it for a day and mudding over top of the tape the next day?

Every idea you have stated is a bad idea for one reason or the other.Why try and reinvent the wheel?

 

[JA Boomer]

Every idea you have stated is a bad idea for one reason or the other.Why try and reinvent the wheel?

This is not helpful. If you tell me why these methods don't work or what better methods might be that would be helpful.

As the thread title states, this is my FIRST mud and tape project. I am not trying to reinvent anything, I am trying to learn and understand the skills and methods before I put them to use.

 

[mako1]

Good tips!

Some other tips I have picked up from the internet are:

1) Cut a shallow divot with a utility knife in your butt seams. This is so you remove the paper face that can be uneven and upturned and poke into the tape. He recommended filling this divot with setting compound but I think I'll just fill it when I to my first pass with taping compound.

Why? The paper is what gives the drywall it's strenghth. Have you ever seen a pro drywaller do this?There is a reason.

2) Wet the tape before embedding for best results.

Another extra step that is not needed .The tape should be bedded in mud and another layer of mud applied on top to wet both sides of the tape.

3) Tape both sides of the corner bead where it transitions back to the drywall to ensure you won't have cracking.
Not needed.Just more work for nothing Reinventing the wheel.

Two more questions:

Is it okay to use spray adhesive for the corner bead instead of screwing them on with drywall screws?

No.Use drywall nails in place of screws on corner bead.

Is there any problem with doing your first pass embedding the tape. Then leaving it for a day and mudding over top of the tape the next day?

Yes. See above statement about inbedding tape.
I hope I did not inconvenience you to much by not answering your OP to your satisfaction.
Have a nice day.

 

[mske390]

I've read a bunch of responses on this thread and on others and some I don't get, isn't this site "DIYchatroom"? Doesn't that stand for "Do It Yourself".

I'm all for trying something yourself for first time, its how you learn! I just did my first skim plaster job on my garage wall (that everyone told me not to I guess no one likes a nice garage?) and like you searched for all information before attempting them learned a few tricks as I did the job.

Mudding and taping isn't that hard or rocket science, you got the basics so give it a try. The biggest thing I've learned is don't put it on thick. Longer to do more coats but in the long run makes a world of difference with a good finish. Once you start doing this you will most likely find the tricks or methods that work best. Another tip is use a flashlight to check that you sanded everything smooth before priming/painting. Place it flat on the drywall and it will show everything! My first mud and tape project was a bathroom that I wanted plastered before painting, the plasterer was very impressed with my job and said it didn't need plaster but I still wanted it. Everything is repairable if needed you did your homework so I'm guessing yours come out fine, good luck!

 

[digitalplumber]

As a novice, I found taping and mudding dry wall to work better for me, by using the powder in a bag that you mix. Having watched some guys, getting it thin and applying and not working it too much also helped, but that was just me!

More pressure to the right or left side of the blade, obviously thins that side of mud more.

 

[frameartnyc]

Wall putty can be tried for this problem, and then color it similar to your room color. POP i.r Plaster of Paris is the another option.