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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am making my first attempt at plastering a wall, I am going to plaster my garage wall that I recently replaced several sheets of blueboard. I don't need this wall to be inside flat but would like to make look nice if doing all of this work. The wall is in tough shape! It now has new 1/2" blueboard, original blueboard with a cement like plaster over it and 3/8" blue board. I am filling in the lower sections on the bottom to get fairly level to new and original sections.

I've read and watched all that I can on-line so have a what I feel is a solid understanding of the steps needed but figured I would ask you all that have done for tips and recommendations?
 

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· Property Mgt/Maint
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I hope you are taping those seems and not just slapping some mud up there. If no tape then cracks will appear in short order. After the tape is down, smooth and top coat with a 4 to 6" knife. Looks like you have been working with a 2" knife. Too small.
 

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Why plaster, and not just finish and paint?
Whole lot of extra work and nothing to gain.
Gotta agree with Joe. Not much to gain with plastering a garage wall that is usually covered with shelves, tools, etc.

Buy a tub of joint compound, some joint tape, and with a few broad knives, you could have those joints done in a day or two, sanded, primed and painted.
 

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I am making my first attempt at plastering a wall, I am going to plaster my garage wall that I recently replaced several sheets of blueboard.
When you say you want to "plaster" that wall, do you mean you want to learn how to apply a base coat plaster to your wallboard and then skim coat that base coat plaster with a joint compound?

Or, do you mean you just want to finish your wall board with tape and joint compound so that you can prime and paint?

There is a very big difference between the two courses of action.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I installed new mold tough sheetrock (green) where the wall was too far gone, the bottom of wall has hydraulic cement skimmed on it and lastly the original wall is sheetrock with something like 1/4" plaster on it. This plaster behaves more like cement.

So when you look at the pictures, you see the mold sheetrock that I since taped all seams and compounded smooth.

The portion that is pink in color is plaster bonder that I am applying skim coats of veneer plaster for basecoat then skim coat it with a plaster of paris. Had no plans on using joint compound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I just read all the responses and the pictures were taken as I was progressing. All seams were taped and joint compounded using a 4" knife (even what you are looking at was the 4" knife). the pink portion is about 1/4 off from level of green mold tough and original wall and the green board is not level with the original wall.

Since the sections of the wall are no where level to each other and need to be built up I felt plastering would work best.

I want the wall to end up being somewhat level so what your all recommending won't work. I originally thought of removing the entire wall and redoing with new sheetrock then doing what you all mentioned but didn't because first it would be a pain to remove the existing wall materials (town doesn't take building materials in trash), much cheaper to do what I decided too and wanted to learn to skim coat for a future project.
 

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After struggling to create an acceptable job, I don't touch the stuff anymore. Too many professionals willing to do it for a reasonable price in less time than it takes me to get the materials. I'm always more happy with their work than mine.
 
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