[TrailerParadise]

Here is my first attempt at a kitchen cabinet. This will be the sink base, all it is missing is doors. What do you think? Any suggestions or tips?

Please do not answer just to be rude, constructive criticism is one thing but please do not just get on here to tell me it looks like crap.

 

[TrailerParadise]

It is made from 3/4" oak plywood, the face frame is whitewood 1x2's with a 1x3 in the middle. I wanted poplar or oak or something but Lowes only carries whitewood in precut 1x2's. I put it together with a Kreg Jig and many pocket screws and gorilla wood glue. Base is oak 2x4's. The doors will be made of 1x3's (whitewood) and 1/2" oak plywood.

 

[maranello055]

Looks very good! I don't see how anyone could criticize you on it at all! Now only 8+ or so more to build!

 

[TrailerParadise]

Thanks! Only eight more plus the bathroom vanity

 

[joecaption]

Two late now but they do stock red oak in the trim area.
I've just been ordering my doors on line.

 

[TrailerParadise]

Well when i asked about it before i made it, you guys told me not to use oak because i wanted to paint them white. So my only choice was whitewood, or drive across town to Home Depot and get poplar, if they had it in stock.

 

[TrailerParadise]

And i looked at doors online, but it costs $32 for a simple slab door, i wanted shaker style doors, and i can make a shaker style door for less than $10. i worked on those last night.

 

[ddawg16]

I'm the one who said not to paint oak....

I'm surprised that you can't get poplar at HD. Its only marginally more expensive than white pine and much stronger. But what you have looks good. It's getting painted so your going to be fine.

However, instead of using gorilla glue, just use good wood glue. I think you will find it works better for porous wood than gorilla glue...

One other thing....I would have used melamine for the bottom shelf....then you don't have issues with paint chiping off. The melamine makes a great surface for that....and that is one place the gorilla glue does work well. But, I wouldn't take it apart just for that reason. Just future reference.

 

[TrailerParadise]

HD does carry poplar, but the closest HD is 40-something miles away, whereas Lowes is only 19 miles. Lowes does not carry poplar, only red oak and whitewood. I couldnt remember who told me that, sorry. I wont be painting the bottom, just the sides of the interior and the face frame. I read on here somewhere about putting wood flooring in the bottom of the cabinet and it sounds good to me, so i think im going to put the same wood inside that is on the kitchen floor. That way it will look seamless. might not work, idk, ill just have to try it and see.

 

[ddawg16]

HD does carry poplar, but the closest HD is 40-something miles away, whereas Lowes is only 19 miles. Lowes does not carry poplar, only red oak and whitewood. I couldnt remember who told me that, sorry. I wont be painting the bottom, just the sides of the interior and the face frame. I read on here somewhere about putting wood flooring in the bottom of the cabinet and it sounds good to me, so i think im going to put the same wood inside that is on the kitchen floor. That way it will look seamless. might not work, idk, ill just have to try it and see.

Sounds like a plan to me.....we expect pictures when done.

 

[TrailerParadise]

Definitely but ill be posting them in my Project Showcase thread. I wont be making seperate threads for the whole thing, i just wanted to get opinions on the construction of this first cabinet.

 

[jagans]

By whitewood you mean white pine?

Have you considered biscuits for joinery?

What you have done looks good from the one picture you posted.

Better than MDF in my opinion. That stuff is crap. Heavy Crap.

 

[ddawg16]

By whitewood you mean white pine?

Have you considered biscuits for joinery?

What you have done looks good from the one picture you posted.

Better than MDF in my opinion. That stuff is crap. Heavy Crap.

I love biscuits....I've used the crap out of my biscuit cutter (time to get the blade sharpened). But, even using the smallest biscuits (00 I think), it's hard to get them to work on face frames....but I use them on the bottom shelf when the outside is going to be exposed. If not exposed, I use screws.

Here is an example of one of the cabinets I made....this is out of soft maple (which is not so soft)

 

[oh'mike]

White wood? I wonder if that is aspen---

I like what I see here --doors can take some learning---good luck, I look forward to seeing the doors---

 

[cleveman]

Boy that looks like crap!

Just kidding.

I understand you want to paint. Hopefully you can get that out of your system some day.

Don't use oak plywood, use 3/4" bcx for everything and 1/2 for the backs. Put some tops on them.

Don't use 2x4's for the base. Just use 22 1/2" x 34 sides with a 4x4 toekick cut out.

Don't use a 1x3 for the middle of the facing. Use 2" wide everywhere, also for your doors.

Don't use 1/2" plywood for your doors, use 1/4".

Paint the inside of your cabinets. Poly the face frames and doors.

 

[Maintenance 6]

"Don't use a 1x3 for the middle of the facing. Use 2" wide everywhere, also for your doors."

I always use a full 3" wide center stile. Then your doors will be evenly spaced from one cabinet to the next. Stiles and rails on doors are dictated by the style of door you are building. I, personally wouldn't use stiles and rails that narrow for a door. Since you are painting these anyhow, I would not spend the extra money for oak plywood. If you feel you need to use 3/4" for cabinet sides, (I use 1/2"), then I'd opt for either lauan or shop grade birch.
I see you've added flanges to the inside cabinet top for attaching your counter top. I run mine across the front and back. That adds some beef behind the top rail of the face frame. If somebody slams a heavy drawer shut, it won't allow the top face frame rail to flex or warp.

 

[TrailerParadise]

i intend to paint them because of my color scheme. white walls, tan-ish brown countertop, tan-ish brown accent wall, warm brown wood floor. Too much brown screams eighties. Thats why im painting them, and that way they will match the top shelves. Whitewood is the name of the wood that was on the tag, thats all i know. Lowes isnt one for accuracy. and the 1x3 is so that my doors will be able to line up properly. trust me that face frame isnt going anywhere, its solid as a rock. Pocket screws tend to do that. Besides, there is no drawer on this one, and the supports have to be front to back so that the sink will fit.

 

[TrailerParadise]

cleveman: i dont want to use 1/4" for the doors because its impossible to attach it using pocket screws and i dont like tracks, theyre crap. i intend to paint the insides, but im not polying the face frames, its a waste of time and money. Plywood is porous. What will happen if you dont put a 2x4 base on it, and your sink leaks? it will go through the drain hole and rot out your cabinet at the bottom. If you use a 2x4 you dont have this problem.

 

[TrailerParadise]

Oh and im not using biscuits because of two reasons. #1, they are held in by glue. After a certain amount of time glue lets go. I prefer screws. #2 the tools you need to cut a biscuit hole is expensive. The Kreg jig is only $45 and much easier to use. Admittedly it does throw sawdust everywhere, but what cutting tool doesnt?

 

[ddawg16]

Oh and im not using biscuits because of two reasons. #1, they are held in by glue. After a certain amount of time glue lets go. I prefer screws. #2 the tools you need to cut a biscuit hole is expensive. The Kreg jig is only $45 and much easier to use. Admittedly it does throw sawdust everywhere, but what cutting tool doesnt?

Pocket screws are the best choice for face frames....