[mmhendrie]

Hi - i'm about to hang a drywall ceiling and I tend to like to map things out in my head before I do so.

The ceiling i'm installing is a replacement for a damaged ceiling - the old drywall was taken out etc., new joists in, and now the new drywall needs to go in. The walls are already there, as they were not damaged. So, i'm going to hang it - i've read that i need to put construction glue on the joists, and do the appropriate spacing for the screws - that seems fine. Question I have is, how do i finish the edges of the ceiling where the ceilings butts up against the vertical walls? Just mud & fiberglass tape the same as I would between two flat pieces of drywall? Or is there a different product/technique for dealing with the 90 degree angle where ceiling meets wall?

thanks in advance,
Matt

 

[notafraidtoask]

i would recomend using a paper tape for the corners if u are coing to mud them, but if u get your sheets tight and keep the gaps to a minumum u can get away with a paintable caulking,

 

[PaliBob]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The long edge of the drywall panel is tapered. The tapered edge makes it easier to tape and fill the joint between two pieces of drywall. When filled, taped and sanded, the surface at the joint will be as smooth and even as the board itself.​

​

[/FONT]

 

[bjbatlanta]

Use paper tape only for corners. It is made so it will readily crease in the center for use in the angles. Allow your tape coat to dry thoroughly before you re-coat. Run one side of your angles at a time for best results and alternate sides. In other words, run the top side of one angle then the bottom of the next (and so on) so as not to get into the wet mud from the previous one.......

 

[mmhendrie]

ok, sounds like i need to buy some paper tapes vs. the fiberglass. thanks for the advice guys. In terms of application of mud to the tape, is paper tape pretty much the same as fiberglass in terms of how you use it?

 

[bjbatlanta]

Fiberglass is self-sticking and goes directly on the board without any compound under it. With paper tape you put a layer of compound on the board, put the tape on the mud, and wipe down to get the excess out from under.

 

[mmhendrie]

thanks bjb. I'm looking at my ceiling now - I had to hang sister joists to strengthen and lower my ceiling. One problem this may have created is, at the edges of the ceiling, the joists my drywall will be attached are about 2 inches off the wall (the old joists were flush, and the new ones are attached to the old, but lower). Should I be worried about not having the drywall anchored right up against the wall?

 

[bjbatlanta]

No. Not 2" anyway. It will "float" several inches without sagging though I try not to go more than 3 or 4". Normally the walls are hung after the ceiling and will hold the edge of the ceiling. I've hung new houses where "deadwood" (a nailer) was omitted for whatever reason (maybe just oversight on the framer's part) and have floated 6 or 8 inches. The wall held the ceiling. Even if your wall isn't holding the ceiling, 2" is ok.

 

[mmhendrie]

perfect - thanks bjb - i have some confidence now

 

[bjbatlanta]

It's not rocket science, but takes a bit of patience starting out. Just remember if you put too much mud on, you can sand some off. If you don't put enough on, another coat is in order....

 

[HABSFAN2006]

It's not rocket science, but takes a bit of patience starting out. Just remember if you put too much mud on, you can sand some off. If you don't put enough on, another coat is in order....

gread advice bjb.. been reading your posts.
say I cut my sheet too short 3/4" x 4 feet wide up against the ceiling...
now, without changing the sheet... would a pro fill screw in a 3/4 or 1/2" strip of drywall, or would you just mud it, paper it, and wait for it to dry?

 

[bjbatlanta]

I would fill with a strip if possible. !/2" is sometimes difficult to deal with, 3/4" not so bad. You need a fresh piece of rock (not one that's been laying on the basement floor absorbing moisture). It's easier to cut narrow strips from the long edge as opposed to the 4' edge. Sort of like "going with the grain" on a piece of wood, it just breaks easier that way. Cut front and back sides with your razor knife and break "gently" working along the cut. You could pre-fill with mud (setting type would be best) allow to dry, then flat tape and angle tape. I'm old-school and nail on wood framing. Screws may tend to break the strip. If your strip is pretty snug, try running your screws in the gap between the pieces instead of right in the strip. It should still hold and less chance of breaking the strip.....

 

[HABSFAN2006]

I would fill with a strip if possible. !/2" is sometimes difficult to deal with, 3/4" not so bad. You need a fresh piece of rock (not one that's been laying on the basement floor absorbing moisture). It's easier to cut narrow strips from the long edge as opposed to the 4' edge. Sort of like "going with the grain" on a piece of wood, it just breaks easier that way. Cut front and back sides with your razor knife and break "gently" working along the cut. You could pre-fill with mud (setting type would be best) allow to dry, then flat tape and angle tape. I'm old-school and nail on wood framing. Screws may tend to break the strip. If your strip is pretty snug, try running your screws in the gap between the pieces instead of right in the strip. It should still hold and less chance of breaking the strip.....

great, good point with a small nail as screw will def. break it up.
thanks,